Tommyd16 Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 I think an oil seal has gone in one of my turbos and going to get hybrids. I've been quoted about £250 for the removal and possibly around £500 to refit so I might aswell do it myself. Found this guide http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?82952-Blitz-Twin-Turbo-Installation which seems pretty decent but has anyone got any other tips? Also I take it I will need the complete turbo gasket kit when I put them back on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 I followed T-licences thread for the stem seal replacement and i managed it fine. Following his thread should cover you OK, a new gasket set would be a good idea though too. Whifbitz sells them as a kit or separately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 swear jar and alot of extention bars , I would also say goggles as when your under there the amount of crap you get drop on you is anyouing , single turbos are a dream to work on compaired to the stock TT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommyd16 Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 Cheers. Unfortunalty single is out of my budget my turbos will be going to midland turbos for a refurb and steel internals and they give a 2 year warrenty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supraleeturbo Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Check list for the job . Swear jar (you will be minted after) . Sweat rags to dab you forehead . Plasters for hands .a 'n' e on speed dial . A lot of will you will need it lol its a pita to be fair but iv got a quick fuse lol just take your time bag bolts and label the sharpie is your friend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommyd16 Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 Haha cheers. Any specialist tools required? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Haha cheers. Any specialist tools required? Shares in a socket extension factory could be handy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Shares in a socket extension factory could be handy. amazing isint it lol, the extension needs to be about 3 foot long Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommyd16 Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 What's the extension for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 To reach all the bolts from underneath, you need like 2-3 extensions and various fittings just to reach the bolts, it's awkward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 IIRC its for the turbo support bracket bolt which is on the under side of the turbo , but that is very close to the top of the system but you have to get it from underneath,even when you think its ready to come off you will find more bolts holding it on , first time i did mine it took a few days as i had no other car and had to keep going out and getting tools i needed , in my collection of special tools i have a cut down bent 14mm spanner for those very special manifold bolts , cant remember now if it was more for the single manifold or not but is good to have Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOB B Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 (edited) What's the extension for? Getting to the bolts tween, 1st cat and exhaust gas control valve (EGCV), and some of, either, the bottom of the joint of turbos and manifold, or manifold and engine. I say it like that because I found it easier to unbolt the manifold from the engine and crane/lift the whole thing out, (EGCV, 1st and 2nd turbos and exhaust manifold) it can be lifted out by two people but easier and safer with crane, once out it's much better to strip down. I would advise you change all the gaskets and all the vac hoses and any other hoses you can get too, it is quite an involved, long, and sometimes difficult job (physically) but it's not technically difficult. What "Mellowman" said, I had to cut down and bend a bit, a 14 mm spanner, probably best to do this as you come to it though, you may get away without it. Either take lots of photos or jot down what goes where and why, make sure you don't loose any bits. Edited February 5, 2015 by BOB B (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Don't get too excited about getting your old units rebuilt, most OE front turbos have cracked wastegate ports. Some are minor, some so bad rebuilding might be considered a waste of money. I still maintain new turbos are far FAR safer than rebuilt ones. Once you have them off and on consider if you want to go through it all a second time.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnd-mkiv Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Engine and box out for me do the job put back in, faster and cheaper on the swear jar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommyd16 Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 Midland turbos gave me a good quote to refurb them so I will get them to give them a good look over and advise me if they are that far gone. If so I'll get some Whifbitz hybrids Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommyd16 Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 But like I said they come with a 2 year warrenty after the rebuild. Hopefully I will be able to go single in 2 years so it shouldn't be an issue. Fingers crossed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanisLupus Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Follow tlicences thread and the workshop manual. If you follow the steps there won't be much of a problem. Also spray all bolts several times several days before you start the work, then you won't need the swear jar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdog1989 Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 Lots of penetrating oil on your nuts.....on the car that is main ball ache is the ones underneath but once you done it once it gets easier....trust me I had to do it twice and like others said bag and tag your bits....enjoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommyd16 Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 Cheers guys. Will be attempting this at the end of the month Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Blyth Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 The nuts for the front turbo are much easier to access with the water pump removed! It sounds like extra work because the cam belt needs to come off along with the front pulley but I'm convinced the total time is lower, with fewer scraped knuckles and less swearing at nuts and bolts needed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 I have had my twins off twice now both times with the water pump in place first time took me a hole weekend as needed bits , but the second time they was off in under 4 hours . but if the timing belt is due then i would say that its a good call Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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