Intelliguard 950 dash LED not flashing

Hi guys,

Ill start from the top.

Ive got a Clifford G5 Intelliguard 950 installed on the car.

Ive been away for two weeks, come back yesterday and the battery was dead on the supe.

I charged the battery again and locked up, but the problem Ive got is that the blue status LED isnt flashing anymore. It used to start 30 seconds after removing the key from the barrel, and also when armed fully when out of the car. At present it does neither.

So I was wondering is this likely to be because the battery died and the status LED needs activating again (Ive checked the user programmable features and its doesnt appear to be an option and the manual also states that when arming, the LED should flash steadily - which suggests it isnt an option, it should come on by default), or is it just likely to be because the LED has blown? I thought it may likely be because the LED has blown as it didnt light up when I entered user programmable mode and its supposed to come on solid according to the manual.

Any ideas? I was just wondering what you guys opinions would be before I actually altered anything. Or even if anyone had above alarm and a dead battery, did your LED come on okay again when the battery was charged up again?

BTW are the small removable "mounts", situated next to to the trac control switch (to the left and right, there are two - one of them holds the LED) removable from the front or do I have to take the dash to bits to access them? Im wondering as I may be able to remove the old LED and replace with another LED to test???

Thanks for any help or ideas

Paul.

I thought cliffords had their own back-up battery (for just this type of thing & in case some low life disconnects the main battery?)

it vcould possibly be the fuse. i had an old clifford concept 50x (cat1) that did that, it would blow a fuse now and again and cause the led and whole alarm to switch off!!

i strongly suggest visually checking the connections to the LED itself.

Also behind the left kickwell/glovebox area is where the power to the clifford will be. SHould be 2 fuses 20A and 5A, check these havent blown.Other than that i would leave it and take it to a clifford dealer and have them inspect it...should still be under warranty?!

Does the car still start??

Battery back-up is within the siren only.

Going by the description Paul, it does sound like a blown LED. (Assuming the wires haven't been pulled around, in which case it may just be disconnected).

The blanks in the dash are removeable, but not from the front. However, the LED should come out from the front. The Clifford logo is stuck on over the top of the LED. Gently lift the logo plate up and you should be able to remove the LED.

If you have a multimeter, disconnect the LED, pu the alarm into Valet mode, (this should bring the LED on constant), and you should have a reading of 2v. If you have, the LED's dead, if you don't the alarm is at fault.

If it's the LED, let me know and I'll send you another one out, if it's the unit, first thing to try is a power-down reset. Disarm the alarm and then disconnect the battery. Leave it off for a few minutes then reconnect and see what happens.

Let me know

Hi Matt,

Many thanks for the advice mate, and also to Cosmic and Boneyard - thanks for the suggestions. Yep, the car still starts okay.

Ive checked the LED on the blank, and there is no Clifford logo on top of it? Its just plain cover. Its just appears to be a plastic covering, which Im unsure if Ill be able to prise out without damaging the LED casing. Picture here: Mine is just a standard one like this here from a piccy in my car.

Or is it this one here? I have on - i.e. only the Clifford LED on the blank with the Clifford bezel removed?

Or am I talking tosh?

Ive just been out and managed to get the dash off, and get access to and remove the LED. Taking a reading at the connecting prongs it appears to be 11.43 to 11.46 volts (which cant be right can it - it should be 2??) set to 20 on the voltage scale.

Thanks for any help mate.

That's the same LED, but Mark has flushed yours into the dash blank.

OK, now I need to check a new G5 alarm in case they've changed things, but I wouldn't expect more than 2 volts. I'll get back to you on Monday if that's OK...

I assume all the rest of the alarms functions work alright? - Locking, alarm chirps etc?

That's the same LED, but Mark has flushed yours into the dash blank.

 

OK, now I need to check a new G5 alarm in case they've changed things, but I wouldn't expect more than 2 volts. I'll get back to you on Monday if that's OK...

 

I assume all the rest of the alarms functions work alright? - Locking, alarm chirps etc?

Matt, that would be great, thank you.

The locking and alarm chirps seem okay thankfully, as do the proximity sensors. I havent tried Intellistart yet though I doubt that will make any difference!

Its weird, just thinking if it was throwing in 11 volts all the time to the LED when it was only supposed to have 2, then surely the LED wouldve blown a lot earlier? Just to make damn sure its not me making a mistake, this is the setting on the multimeter I used to take the reading.

Anyway mate, thanks for your help. I really appreciate your trouble.

Yep, that's the correct setting. If the alarm IS giving out over 2v that mey be the reason why the LED had blown....

If it is that, then I wonder what has caused the alarm to start giving out 11 volts rather than 2 volts? Weird. As I said in an earlier post, Id been on holiday so nothing has been tampered with to cause this.

Anyway, rather than speculate Id best wait until you can tell whether it actually should be 2v or 11v!

Hopefully it will just be a case of a faulty LED rather than anything more sinister!

Thanks again mate.

Just to update this thread if anyone else ever searches the BBS for a similar plroblem.

It turned out that it was simply the LED that had blown.

Mark at Sextons kindly sent out a replacement LED that worked, no problems, and is still working now. Thanks Mark (and Matt!) - much appreciated guys. AGAIN, excellent after sales service .

Never understood why I got an 11v reading, but hey, it works so there cant be that much wrong with it!

Thanks again guys