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Help needed wiring a sub and amp.


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Hi all.

 

Looking for a little help wiring up a sub and amp I have, as ICE is beyond me.

 

So I bought all this ages ago and have just had it sat around, but today I finally started making the sub box house it.

 

I have a Xplode 1000 watt amp- it has these connections on the back-

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=195894&stc=1&d=1420821806

 

Now the Sub I have is the following spec-

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=196004&stc=1&d=1421172418

 

It has 4 fuses on the back and 8 connections, 4 each side.

 

Anyone be able to walk me though how to wire it together? I have purchased a generic wiring kit too.

 

Thanks In advance.

 

Jake

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I was going to take a picture of the connections on the sub and amp and lable them all. Would that help? the more idiot proof the better haha.

 

Would be good to do this, are they not labeled power - + and the blue one so it turns off with the head unit and not drains the battery, RR(Rear Right) RL(rear left) FR(front Right) FL(front left)?

 

They are usually dot to dot.

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I bought the vibe wiring kit......

Thick red one is the power supply so from battery I fed it through firewall...under carpet to my boot.......and into the amp

Then the other connector which has 2 connections at either end...(can't remember name for it) went from my head unit into the amp..

Also a thin blue one (remote wire) also from head unit to my amp....

 

Sorry but this description is totally naff but I'm a novice at audio.....

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I take it thats the same amplifier - https://www.sony-europe.com/support/en/content/cnt-man/XM-2165GTX/list

 

I'm not sure there's a way to wire a 4 ohm dual voice coil sub to a 4 ohm amp without melting something.

 

Looks like the same one, i bought it second hand on here from a memeber who told me it would work with my sub when i gave him the spec ? Was a long time ago now though, 2 years or so.

 

Would be good to do this, are they not labeled power - + and the blue one so it turns off with the head unit and not drains the battery, RR(Rear Right) RL(rear left) FR(front Right) FL(front left)?

 

They are usually dot to dot.

 

Are you talking about the sub or amp? The sub iss just 4 reds and 4 whites no - or + signs

 

 

I bought the vibe wiring kit......

Thick red one is the power supply so from battery I fed it through firewall...under carpet to my boot.......and into the amp

Then the other connector which has 2 connections at either end...(can't remember name for it) went from my head unit into the amp..

Also a thin blue one (remote wire) also from head unit to my amp....

 

Sounds like I have a similar kit to you. The issue is i have many more things to plug in than i do wires??

Sorry but this description is totally naff but I'm a novice at audio.....

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That combination of amp and speaker are really unsuitable to make the most of what you have. The amp is no good at bridging for 2 ohms, if you go with 8 ohms you're not going to get the pop you need for a shallow speaker. The only other option you have with the setup is to run the coils individually through each channel. This also isn't ideal as any slight difference in the output will lead to distortion. It should be minimal, but it's definitely not ideal.

 

If you want some help wiring it up as it is then take your pick with what setup you want to go with. 2 ohms is the ideal, but your amp isn't rated for it so you would be risking overheating the amp when the volume is cranked up. 4 ohm individual coil inputs is the alternative.

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That combination of amp and speaker are really unsuitable to make the most of what you have. The amp is no good at bridging for 2 ohms, if you go with 8 ohms you're not going to get the pop you need for a shallow speaker. The only other option you have with the setup is to run the coils individually through each channel. This also isn't ideal as any slight difference in the output will lead to distortion. It should be minimal, but it's definitely not ideal.

 

If you want some help wiring it up as it is then take your pick with what setup you want to go with. 2 ohms is the ideal, but your amp isn't rated for it so you would be risking overheating the amp when the volume is cranked up. 4 ohm individual coil inputs is the alternative.

 

What would you suggest? a new amp? if so any suggestions?

 

I don't want to be risking anything but equally I hate loud music these days and am just looking to add a bit of bass as I fell my speakers are lacking it. If I'm able to wire it up as is and create a little better noise then i would give it a go. No idea which of the above routes would be best though?

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I would try this first as this is how it should be set up. If you had a DVC sub with 2ohms per coil it would be perfect, the fact that it's 4ohms per coil just means you'll get less power.

 

Assumptions (it's hard to tell properly):

 

A1 = +

A2 = -

A3 = -

A4 = +

 

 

A1(AMP) to R2(SUB)

R1(SUB) to W2(SUB)

W1(SUB) to R3(SUB)

R4(SUB) to W3(SUB)

W4(SUB) to A3(AMP)

 

A5 - Blue remote wire from back of the stereo

A6 - Direct heavy duty fused cable to battery.

A7 - Ground, bolted using eyelet to something WELL grounded in the boot.

 

B1 - 1st Pre-Out on back of headunit.

C1 - 2nd Pre-Out on back of headunit.

 

A2, A4, B2, C2 are unused.

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  • 1 month later...

Just started this finally as the box is ready to go pretty much. So going back to your advice scott-

 

1- A1(AMP) to R2(SUB)

2- R1(SUB) to W2(SUB)

3- W1(SUB) to R3(SUB)

4- R4(SUB) to W3(SUB)

5- W4(SUB) to A3(AMP)

 

A5 - Blue remote wire from back of the stereo

A6 - Direct heavy duty fused cable to battery. Routed and ready to go

A7 - Ground, bolted using eyelet to something WELL grounded in the boot. Routed and ready to go

 

B1 - 1st Pre-Out on back of headunit. Routed and ready to go

C1 - 2nd Pre-Out on back of headunit. Routed and ready to go

 

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=196320&stc=1&d=1421685436

attachment.php?attachmentid=196319&stc=1&d=1421685436

 

 

So Can anyone recommend what to buy for the remaining wiring, the only other bits I got in my wiring kit was speaker wire.

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Speaker wire is what you need to use. Some reasonable gauge stuff for subs though, not thin flimsy stuff. The remote wire can be any thin gauge wire, I always go with blue. Around 16awg is the recommendation. This comes off the back of your stereo "remote" lead (usually blue too).

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