Is there a full UK Spec brake caliper refurb guide on here?

Has anybody done a UK spec Caliper rebuild guide thread I am aware of the J-Spec guide in our tech section but as most of you are aware the UKs are a bit different..

I only ask as I will be doing a full UK set this winter and il document it for the forum if it has not been done.

I've got a set ready to do so a full guide would be very helpful to me.

Only seen the J-spec one on here.

I'm planning on doing mine also so a guide is always useful

I have a spare full set on the shelf to refurbs as well, so a guide would be good Matt

Make sure you take lots of pics, as I have a habit of skim reading if there are to many words lol

Need to order the goodies from Mr CW then il get to it then il report back when all is done.

A video would be great too

Push the pistons out as far as you dare using the brake pedal, then violently manhandle them out with cloth-covered mole grips Sand down pistons and bores with 1200grit. Replace any that are pitted with corrosion via Mr Chris Wilson. Fit new seals and things, coated with a bit of the lithium grease in the rebuild kit, and put back together. Clean up the monumental amount of brake fluid that's gotten everywhere during this procedure. Taste brake fluid in the back of your throat for the rest of the day. Brake apprehensively. Don't panic when it smells like your brakes are on fire the first time you get them nice and hot and all the newness cooks off

Daft question maybe, what do you do with the brake hoses when the caliper is removed? Do you blank it off with a nut, bolt and couple of washers or clamp the hose? I don't really want to clamp the brake hoses in case it damages them internally.

Daft question maybe, what do you do with the brake hoses when the caliper is removed? Do you blank it off with a nut, bolt and couple of washers or clamp the hose? I don't really want to clamp the brake hoses in case it damages them internally.

I will be purging the system on this occasion In fact I usually just let the stuff run out into a tub...

I always replace the whole system with dot5.1 my car does not get driven hard the likelyhood of me cooking this fluid is near impossible plus it's relatively cheap..

Push the pistons out as far as you dare using the brake pedal, then violently manhandle them out with cloth-covered mole grips Sand down pistons and bores with 1200grit. Replace any that are pitted with corrosion via Mr Chris Wilson. Fit new seals and things, coated with a bit of the lithium grease in the rebuild kit, and put back together. Clean up the monumental amount of brake fluid that's gotten everywhere during this procedure. Taste brake fluid in the back of your throat for the rest of the day. Brake apprehensively. Don't panic when it smells like your brakes are on fire the first time you get them nice and hot and all the newness cooks off

My calipers are still free moving is it possible to remove them and use compressed air on my bench as I did with the J-Specs to remove the Pistons before splitting the calipers

I will look at powder coating while I'm on.

I have requested from Mr CW

Full set stainless Pistons

CW Fast road pads

Stainless pins

Caliper seal kit

Caliper gasket set

I have a new set of discs and braided lines at hand aswell.

I will be purging the system on this occasion In fact I usually just let the stuff run out into a tub...

 

I always replace the whole system with dot5.1 my car does not get driven hard the likelyhood of me cooking this fluid is near impossible plus it's relatively cheap..

To be honest I would be daft not to do the same!

To be honest I would be daft not to do the same!

To be fair mate these brakes see 3k miles a year over 6 months use They come off every winter to check them over its just this year the car is 16 years old I may aswell get them stripped and rebuilt before my luck runs out and one seizes.

Besides what else would I do with my time I'm an extremely boring person I spent last New Years eve working on my own in the garage on the car..

heres one i done some time ago

http://www.mkiv.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?244873-uk-brake-refurb&highlight=brake

2 Pieces of anything flat and mole grips to hold over the banjo, i've stripped a

few sets down completely, make sure they are 100% clean when you put them

back together

A word of warning, if you sandblast or sand down the piston bores some debris

will get inside the fluid runs, where the two halves meet there are seals, these

create a small shoulder where the debris collects and its impossible to remove unless

you take both halves apart.

I know because i tried to do this on set and thought i'd got them clean, i

used lots of brake cleaner sprayed down the fluid runs and then blown out

with compressed air and repeated this process, i was surprised how much debris

was trapped on the seal when i took one caliper apart

They are also marked up L and R on both parts of the caliper

No need to purge the system of fluid, when you bleed the brakes just use the

new fluid to push out the old, if you can get your hands on a vacuum bleeder

it makes this very easy to do and quick

My calipers are still free moving is it possible to remove them and use compressed air on my bench as I did with the J-Specs to remove the Pistons before splitting the calipers

No need to use compressed air, remove the caliper but don't disconnect the brake lines, then just push the brake pedal and the pistons will pushed out.

Leave the caliper bolted to the hub, use some thin wood etc to put between the discs and pistons

then pump the pedal, if you pop one piston out before the others which will happen then you have to

wriggle them out the hard way, not sure how thick the wood needs to be to let you get the pistons nearly

all the way out though.

Measure the back plates of the pads which should get you close to the dimension req

Or you can use compressed air just keep your fingers out the way

That's the idea mate I need to split them to do a proper job IMO I fortunately did buy a vacuum bleeder makes the job so much easier.