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Thoughts on next steps - car got issues :-(


sr38
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Guys / Girls

 

need some advice on the car (not technical - just generally what to do).

 

The car failed it's leakdown test on a recent visit to WhifBitz along with piston slap. I'm in two minds what to do; try and sell her on to a keen individual (if they have the technical skill and a garage then arguably it's not as expensive a job to fix as taking it to a tuner) or fix her - the latter of which i'm just not sure, as if was to have a full rebuild i'd want to take it in a completely different direction and change the engine setup pretty much altogether (single and 6 or boostlogic and twin)- which primarily costs a lot in parts and labour. there's a few single 6's kicking about and Matsi's bootlogic on the board which arguably i could buy for less than it would cost be to rebuild this current one (the way i want it). The engine could keep going for another 1000 or 10,000 miles - who knows?

 

Mini spec of the car is below for reference;

 

1995 NA-TT - Bpu'd and running 430bhp @ 1.15bar

 

Engine;

 

Bore, and hone engine block, Balance crankshaft, pistons, rods.

C P oversize forged Pistons, ACL bearings, ARP head studs, ARP rod bolts, water pump, oil pump, gasket set, Walbro fuel pump and filter.

 

 

so what do you reckon is the best next step, as i said; a talented, enthusiastic individual with a garage could sort it out, or someone who has stacked their car, but has a serious engine setup and wants to drop it straight in - admittedly i could just throw it on ebay or similar and shift it to whoever, but i'm not that kind of person

 

 

Thoughts appreciated?! :thumbs:

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Return your car to NA and sell it, then buy a TT. Probably the cheapest option going. Getting the GTE rebuilt will be uneconomical IMO, and buying a replacement engine may well land you in the same position again in a few months.

 

What would I be looking at roughly for an NA and fitting?

 

What would we reckon resale value to be on the NA?

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Return your car to NA and sell it, then buy a TT. Probably the cheapest option going. Getting the GTE rebuilt will be uneconomical IMO, and buying a replacement engine may well land you in the same position again in a few months.

 

agreed from my experiance or see if some one wants it as is..

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Is it definately piston slap....just putting it out there...

 

until engine fully stipped down, can't be definitely confirmed though Paul @ whifbitz was pretty confident to which i trust. it's a noticeable ticking / slapping noise on cold start and goes away (mostly) when it's hot. Failed its leakdown test with;

 

Cyl 1: 145

Cyl 2: 125

Cyl 3: 155

Cyl 4: 126

Cyl 5: 150

Cyl 6: 145

 

From my limited mechanical knowledge, i beleive 2 & 4 are out of tolerance and the rest are about bang on?

 

Compression test was 150 across the board, after car was warm

 

 

agreed from my experiance or see if some one wants it as is..

 

This was my thought of putting it on ebay / here - be honest with the issues its got and see if somebody wants it. it's an awesome beast on WOT, should someone have their own garage and some mechanical knowledge and the tools to strip it out of the car and the bits down so it can be fixed, it's not a huge bill in terms of parts / machining. Main cost comes from Tuner needing to charge hourly rate to strip, workout problem, send off, then rebuild. which is more than fair enough, as Paul / others have got to make a good living, just if a competant enthusiast had the time, effort and space it could be put back to good with relative ease.

 

in the next month i have to move house (with no garage) and sort a bunch of personal issues - simply going to struggle to get near it until well into next year

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What are the before and after results? Sounds like piston slap and I'm sure if Paul is confident then you can bet it is.

 

Just curious... does the GE short block match with the GTE head?

 

think from cold, compression test was something around the 120 - 130 mark - can't actually remember -it was low, but reading around some peoeple said do it from warm, so Paul did so and it held at 150 - which would make sense of the pistons expanding when warm...

 

No idea on the GE short block matching the GTE head - would hope you guys know better than i do :thumbs:

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Paul stripped an engine down for me too that had a noise but carried on intermittently... Cost about 8k to build an engine.... Old one had nothing wrong with it when it was taken apart too... Still makes the noise... Wallet alot lighter.... I think its the clutch as it drives really well ....guess what im trying to say bud is dont trow all your hard earned at it.. Good luck mate

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Paul stripped an engine down for me too that had a noise but carried on intermittently... Cost about 8k to build an engine.... Old one had nothing wrong with it when it was taken apart too... Still makes the noise... Wallet alot lighter.... I think its the clutch as it drives really well ....guess what im trying to say bud is dont trow all your hard earned at it.. Good luck mate

 

think that's the problem though, without stripping it there's no way of knowing for sure.

 

sorry to hear about yours, guess sometimes that's just how it happens - least you can be confident that the new engine is built etc

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What would I be looking at roughly for an NA and fitting?

 

What would we reckon resale value to be on the NA?

 

NA engines are dirt cheap, the other costs depend if you can fit or not.

 

Unfortunately, whatever you decide, you're going to loose out financially.

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