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Ian's Single Build Thread


Ian.
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I bought this car almost a year ago after selling my R34 GTR.

 

Spec when I bought it.

 

Engine:

2997cc 2JZ-GTE Straight Six Twin Hybrid Turbo’s

HKS 4” Carbon Titanium Exhaust

Envy 3" Decats

Greddy 2 Row Intercooler

Greddy Expansion Tank

Greddy Dump Valve

Blitz LM Panel Filter

Silicone Hosing and Vac Pipes

Apexi Boost Gauge

Apexi Air Flow Controller

HKS EVC5 Boost Controller

AEM AFR Gauge

Thor Fuel Cut Defencer

Walbro Fuel Pump

NGK Spark Plugs

Blitz Oil Filter

TRD Oil Cap

New Halfords HCB005 Battery

Polished Inlet Manifold, Turbo Pipes and Hardpipe

Polished Fuse Box Cover, Ignitor Cover

Darnley Billet Brake Fluid, Washer Bottle & Power Steering Caps

Carbon Fibre Engine Cover

Carbon Fibre Slam Panel

Carbon Wrapped Inlet Duct & Carbon Battery Cover

Bonnet Dampers

 

Transmission:

Getrag V160 6 Speed Box

OEM NEW Clutch

OEM NEW dual mass Flywheel

OEM NEW pressure plate

APE Aluminium Shifter Bushes

 

Suspension:

Tein Flex Coilover System

Tein Performance Bar (Front)

 

Brakes:

TRD UK Spec Calipers All Round (Front 4Pot, Rear 2Pot)

Rotora Front Discs

OEM UK Spec Rear Discs

Chris Wilson Fast Road Brake Pads All Round

Goodrich Braided Hoses and DOT 5.1 Fluid

 

Wheels & Tyres:

GENUINE 18" BBS LM Two Piece Alloy Wheels

Reverse Mounted Faces with Silver Forged Bolts, Mirror Polished Lips Sealed With GTechniq C5 Wheel Armour

Falken 235/40/18 Front Tyres (will provide a VGC second hand set)

Pirelli P-Zero 265/35/18 Rear Tyres

 

Bodywork:

Full Respray in Ford GT Mustang Vista USA Pearl Blue

Bomex Lip Blended into OEM Front Bumper

TRD Sideskirts

Trial Rear Diffuser with support brackets

Rear Wing Removed & Smoothed

Removal & Smoothing of Rear Wiper & Aerial

Xenon HID Kit

Clear Facelift Indicators

New Facelift headlights

New Facelift Rear Lights with clear indicator conversion

Fog fitted into Rear Light Cluster via Heckler PCB mod

TRD Fuel cap

SRD Alloy Engine Undertray

 

Interior:

Bride Euro II Reclining Seats

Bride MO Type Rails

Carbon Wrapped Dash

Momo GTR-2 Gear Knob

Momo Handbrake Lever

Momo Race 3000 Steering Wheel

MVP Magnesium Alloy Dial Surrounds

TRD Speedhut Dial Conversion up to 220mph

Blue LED Dash Conversion

Apexi Boost Gauge

Pro Comp Oil Temp & Pressure Gauges

AEM AFR Gauge

Aluminium HC Benzels and Surrounds

 

Security:

Toad AI606 CAT 1 alarm/immobiliser

 

ICE:

Alpine D106 Flipout Screen & IPOD connector

Alpine Freeview Receiver

Alpine Bluetooth

Alpine SPS-171A 6.5" Component Front Speakers

Alpine SXE-1725S 6.5" 2-Way Rear Speakers

Autoleads Window Aerial

Fli Trap 12” Removable Active Subwoofer

 

Austec Dyno Results:

460.2 BHP & 481.0 LB/FT

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Edited by Ian. (see edit history)
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The first thing I wanted to do was to replace the gauges with Defi units. By this point the Oil Pressure gauge had given up and the oil temp gauge was reading a constant 150 Degrees

 

I changed the head unit & sub for something a bit more subtle

 

I also fitted an Apexi intake, but the car didn't feel quite right with it fitted so I removed it and refitted the OEM box.

 

Over winter I fitted a suede wrapped dash to replace the tacky CF wrap, Carbing gear knob, OEM speedo cluster, HKS AFK, a Personal steering wheel & a Cusco CF rear strut brace

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Over the winter it had a lot of work done to it.

 

Whifbitz Ridox front bumper

Custom vented bonnet with aero catches

OEM rear wing

Full respray

Carbon fuse box covers

Cusco carbon front strut brace

Syvecs

BC 264 cams

Titan Cam gears

Sard 800cc Injectors

 

Couldn't get any figures from the mapping session due to the dyno that was used.

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Finally took it for a dyno & pulled a miserable 319WHP. Disappointed was an understatement.

 

The dyno operator said that it was miss firing as soon as it came on boost which is why it was down on power.

 

It boosted to 1.3 bar fine, oil pressure was OK, AFR was OK, Oil temp was OK if not a little high at 110 degrees.

 

I took the car to my good friends at 360 Motorsport to get their opinion on it.

 

Coils checked out OK, Plugs were black & wet. Next step was a compression test.

 

Cylinder 1: 155PSI

Cylinder 2: 150PSI

Cylinder 3: 160PSI

Cylinder 4: 120PSI

Cylinder 5: 150PSI

Cylinder 6: 155PSI

 

:(

 

Have been considering my options for the last few days but after spending a few hours up there yesterday discussing my options it has been decided - I'm going to rebuild the Supra.

 

Current Build Plan

 

Rebored block

Wiseco Pistons

Eagle Rods

Titan Oil Pump

ARP Bolts

ACL Bearings

OEM Water Pump

OEM Gasket kit

Headgasket ***Still to be decided****

 

Powerhouse Racing street torque turbo kit

 

Clutch **** to be decided****

Oil cooler

Bosch fuel pumps With Swirl pot

Battery relocation

Electric fan kit

 

Tomei/TRD LSD ***If theres any money left in the pot****

Bigger brakes (Aslong as they will fit under the LM's)

 

Plus any other little bits & pieces I fancy along the way. Still working out the full build list but the bottom end is pretty much decided on :)

 

Target is 650-700BHP

 

Engine is coming out tomorrow ready for the strip down :)

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Sorry to read at your troubles mate. I'd be interested to know what has caused the loss in compression. When i owned the car all the cylinders were slightly higher than those readings you have there and cylinder 4 was fine. Nice to see your going single on it though!

 

Get the bay painted while the engine is out!! That's something i always wanted done :)

 

Looking forward to seeing this done and btw i liked the tackey carbon dash :p

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Haha. I love carbon but hate it on interior parts.

 

Engine bay will be getting painted satin black to match the underside of the bonnet.

 

We think its piston rings but will find out this week when the engine comes out

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That is the only reasonable option if you have that low compression on one of the cylinders.

 

Get that thing rebored, rebuilt and that turbo on :D ;)

 

What clutch do you have in mind? JamieP tried the new HKS and said it was perfect for a street car.

 

Subscribed :)

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Gutted to hear this Ian mate, but glad you are going to rebuild her.

 

She never put a beat wrong under my ownership or James' either. Here was the thread from when I got her dyno'd and the graph. She made a healthy 335rwhp at 1 bar as I just wanted to check the AFR's and Boost Levels.

 

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?280288-That-s-a-better-Dynograph-!

 

Let us know the outcome of the engine strip.

 

Best of luck bud ;)

 

Greg

Edited by Sheefa (see edit history)
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Build is being done by 360 motorsports. They are building the engine so might aswell do the rest of it.

 

My AFRs, oil pressure, oil temps & boost pressure were all as they should be - it was just missing about 80hp

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  • 2 weeks later...

Been up to check on the car tonight & collect a few parts off it to sell & raise some funds for other bits.

 

Engine is now out of the car & mostly stripped. Piston in cylinder 4 is showing signs of det & looks as if it starting to melt. Pistons will be out tomorrow & we can further assess the damage. Cylinder head is off & all the valves are white except for number 4 which are black.

 

Once everything is stripped down then the bottom end will be:

 

Wiseco Pistons

Eagle rods

Titan Oil pump

New OEM water pump

All new OEM gaskets

ARP bolts

ACL bearings

 

Although we are looking at maybe changing the piston/rod combo to a Wossner/Tomei setup.

 

Picked up a few other parts aswell this week

 

TRD Thermostat

TRD Engine mounts

TRD transmission mount

OEM engine mount brackets

PHR anodized pulleys & water pump cover

SRD Intake manifold

Spec clutch

Whifbitz catch can

BW S366 turbo kit (Picking this up on saturday :D)

 

Should be a couple of months getting the bottom end built up to give me time to save to get a built head aswell. Decided to stick to 264 cams, we think 272s will effect the low speed drivability a bit much

 

Any thoughts on the best head gasket to use? Was thinking either HKS or Cometic unless OEM will be up to the job? Also any thoughts on the current/potential piston/rod combo?

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