Suspension woes....wish I hadn't started!

This afternoon I attempted (for the first time ever) to begin replacing my stock suspension with new KYB shocks & lowering springs along with drop links for good measure.

I thought I would finish the rears this afternoon, but I under estimated what a PITA the job is. I got the old shock out fairly quickly and began removing the drop link. Never before have I experienced nuts so tight, and despite using lots of Plus Gas they seemed to get tighter the more I loosened them, cut a long story short it was out 2 hours later, only 3 more to do!

Next, I used spring compressors to remove the top mount from the old shock, then fitted the new spring to the new shock and secured the top mount with the nyloc nut supplied. This is where I'm having problems. I manoeuvred the shock in place, and loosely fitted the 3 screws on the turret. The problem is I cannot get the bottom of the shock on to the hub, is there a knack to getting in position?

I have heard that using spring compressors can help, but how? I have tried this but it just compressed the spring, it's just lose on the shock and the shock stays the same size, it have tried compressing the shock to decrease the length, but its impossible when crouched in the wheel arch!

Any hints, tips and advice would be very much appreciated, my car is on axle stands for the night until I can have another go in the morning!

Cheers.

You were pushing the hub down wernt you, with the rears I had to push the hub down with my chest, and use both arms to get the bottom in. Dreadful job all in all for me.

You have to crow bar down the wishbones/hub to get enough space....you may need to move the brake line too.

You were pushing the hub down wernt you, with the rears I had to push the hub down with my chest, and use both arms to get the bottom in. Dreadful job all in all for me.

I tried, but its difficult trying to make up a couple of inches while trying to manoeuvre the shock at the same time, although I didn't use as many body parts as you

I think I'll ask the missus to stand on it, but she might take it the wrong way when I tell her I need to use her weight!

You have to crow bar down the wishbones/hub to get enough space....you may need to move the brake line too.

not sure I've got anything I can use as a lever

I know, not easy but worth the pain when garages are charging and arm and leg to change them

I know, not easy but worth the pain when garages are charging and arm and leg to change them

I just had a look at your build thread, you've fitted the same KYB's as I am trying to fit.

Are you still on the fronts.... or are you on the rears? The fronts can be really difficult, I remember the rears being quite easy.

If you are having difficulty, regardless of if it's the front or the rear..... undo the top wishbone and use it to lever the hub down.

Are you still on the fronts.... or are you on the rears? The fronts can be really difficult, I remember the rears being quite easy.

 

If you are having difficulty, regardless of if it's the front or the rear..... undo the top wishbone and use it to lever the hub down.

I started on the rear first, I thought it would be easier!

I had a look at the top wish bone but I didn't like the look of that huge ass rusty nut!

I just had a look at your build thread, you've fitted the same KYB's as I am trying to fit.

Got to be honest there was no nack when locating the bottom turrets for me on the rears, I just forced down as hards I could and got them in. With the fronts I had the help of a breaker bar and another person. You really need to get the lever in there and push down. Just make sure the car is secure on axle stands, because im talking about possibly enough force to make a supra slip off them.

I started on the rear first, I thought it would be easier!

 

I had a look at the top wish bone but I didn't like the look of that huge ass rusty nut!

Believe it or not, those should actually be easier than the droplinks. The droplinks are an absolute nightmare, as much as everyone says to use WD40 and the like, I've found that none of that stuff works. The easiest way to get them off is a TON of elbow grease with a wire brush (to remove all the corrosion). After that, if you have it, use an impact gun. If you don't.... fall back to WD40/Plusgas and a ratchet.

Anyway.... same applies to the wishbone. There isn't a lot of thread sticking out the end IIRC. If you remove the top bolts from the wisbhones you'll get the suspension in REALLY easily.

My first attempt at the suspension taught me a LOT of lessons in the best way to go about swapping them out.

Believe it or not, those should actually be easier than the droplinks. The droplinks are an absolute nightmare, as much as everyone says to use WD40 and the like, I've found that none of that stuff works. The easiest way to get them off is a TON of elbow grease with a wire brush (to remove all the corrosion). After that, if you have it, use an impact gun. If you don't.... fall back to WD40/Plusgas and a ratchet.

 

Anyway.... same applies to the wishbone. There isn't a lot of thread sticking out the end IIRC. If you remove the top bolts from the wisbhones you'll get the suspension in REALLY easily.

 

My first attempt at the suspension taught me a LOT of lessons in the best way to go about swapping them out.

Interesting. I shall have a look in the morning.

I bought one of these to keep in the boot, but have never used it, apparently the max torque is 350Nm, maybe I should give it a go!

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0036YHBMM/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just a thought, earlier I fitted a new drop link on the rear, would the hub move more easily if I took it off?

Just a thought, earlier I fitted a new drop link on the rear, would the hub move more easily if I took it off?

Oh god yes, you don't try to replace the suspension with the droplinks attached

I think you need some proper leverage on them, I used a large wooden beam I found while walking the dog . When you stick it under the chassis and press down on the drum part of the brakedisk the suspension should move fairly easily.

Oh god yes, you don't try to replace the suspension with the droplinks attached

Doh!

I think you need some proper leverage on them, I used a large wooden beam I found while walking the dog . When you stick it under the chassis and press down on the drum part of the brakedisk the suspension should move fairly easily.

I have a spare 6ft wooden fence post in the garden, could work but maybe it's too chunky

Just a thought, earlier I fitted a new drop link on the rear, would the hub move more easily if I took it off?

Oh god yes, you don't try to replace the suspension with the droplinks attached

I was just about to ask if the ARB was disconnected...it will come out with that detached.

You shouldn't need it to be honest. The first time I replaced the front suspension I had my mate bouncing on the hub to get it down far enough. 2nd time..... I undid the top wishbone bolt and did it myself with very little effort. I've done it that way ever since.

Thanks for all the replies, hopefully I should make better progress tomorrow.

Does anyone know if the nuts on the drop links are loctited on, they were unnaturally tight, and thinking a bit of heat will help me get the next one out?

Thanks for all the replies, hopefully I should make better progress tomorrow.

 

Does anyone know if the nuts on the drop links are loctited on, they were unnaturally tight, and thinking a bit of heat will help me get the next one out?

They aren't. The tightness comes from the corrosion on the actual bolt. I noticed, exactly like you did, that the more you loosen it off the tighter it gets. That's due to the fact that the corrosion builds up as you loosen it off. Simply wire brushing the corrosion off as best as possible, before attempting to loosen the nut, means it'll come off as easy as pie.

How do you get a spanner on these nuts?

If you have an impact wrench, use it! Far easier to remove the drop link bolts etc and you'd be surprised at how many others it'll help with! Wd40 or plusgas first, soak for a few mind then have at 'em!

Got the shock on!

I removed the drop link but still couldn't get the shock on to the hub. So I removed the brake calliper which gave me room to bring the shock forward (where the calliper usually is) and slide the shock over onto the hub while using my breaker bar to apply some pressure to the hub.

Now the next one!

Got the shock on!

 

I removed the drop link but still couldn't get the shock on to the hub. So I removed the brake calliper which gave me room to bring the shock forward (where the calliper usually is) and slide the shock over onto the hub while using my breaker bar to apply some pressure to the hub.

 

Now the next one!

So that's why Toyota recommend removing the calliper