Replacing front shock's

Hi all, quick question.

When I come to removing my stock front shock absorbers, can it really not be done without removing the upper control arm or undoing the drop link?

If I remove the control arm will I need an alignment on the front after the jobs done?

or if I go the drop link route, what are the chances of me buggering it? Going by tdr's thread, I need a mole grip (tick!) and 14mm spanner (tick!) to do this? ive also read about heating the bolt as it has the dreaded thread seal like the boot rubbers do?

Little advice needed, thanks, Kev

I removed my shocks without removing drop links or the control arm.

I compressed the springs with spring compressors prior to removing them completely, this aided the removal.

Its tight, but it worked!

Hope that helps..!

I removed my shocks without removing drop links or the control arm.

I compressed the springs with spring compressors prior to removing them completely, this aided the removal.

 

Its tight, but it worked!

 

Hope that helps..!

I can't for the life of me see how that worked. I could JUST do it by taking off the top wishbone, removing the droplink makes it a doddle.

Leaving the upper wishbone and the droplink connected with a reasonable shocker is a no-no. The dampener would need to be absolutely shot as they are under a lot of pressure, compressing one of them to the level required to get it clear of the lower strut and then to manage to manoeuvre it through both wishbones while twisting it over the top wishbone, at least in my mind, looks like a physical impossibility.

Got any pics of how you managed it?

I removed my shocks without removing drop links or the control arm.

I compressed the springs with spring compressors prior to removing them completely, this aided the removal.

 

Its tight, but it worked!

 

Hope that helps..!

That's the process I used on the rear, I have compressors but i will need movement in both arms to get the hub lowered and the drop link seems to stop this, in my mind that is, you sure that's how you done the front?

I tied a strap to the wishbone and strapped it over, making it possible to pull it far enough down to pull the shock out.

I removed the drop link only few quid to replace I bought a couple but didn't use them as the old ones were find And came off easy.

I replaced all of mine on my old supra Its 10x easier to not mess about and release the upper arm and put new drop links on for the couple of quid they are.

I physically couldnt get my old front shocks out without release the upper arm first although mine had HKS lowering springs....

Got it done went out and got me a long nose mole grip, heated the drop link nut and it came away just like a normal nut would for its age. Drop links still undamaged and looking fine Car finally drives really lovely and smooth, steering feels more lighter to

Slightly off topic, but where are you guys getting drop links for 'a couple of quid'? Mine are a little worm but not that bad. Priced up ADL Blueprint replacements and they're £14.50 each front and £30 each rear!!

Slightly off topic' date=' but where are you guys getting drop links for 'a couple of quid'? Mine are a little worm but not that bad. Priced up ADL Blueprint replacements and they're £14.50 each front and £30 each rear!![/quote']

 

That is a couple of quid in supra ownership....

Haha, gotcha!! I know it's not desperately expensive but didn't want to spend that much when it doesn't NEED it. Just noticed they weren't solid today whilst prepping to refit my brakes after just spending £600 to overhaul them!

£600 what did you do

All four calipers sent off for strip / paint / rebuild, discs / pads all round and Goodrich braided hoses! Soon mounts up!

All four calipers sent off for strip / paint / rebuild' date=' discs / pads all round and Goodrich braided hoses! Soon mounts up![/quote']

 

You need to learn how to rebuild brakes it's easy I did my old j-specs with the chris Wilson kit then fitted good ridge hoses and drilled and grooved discs with pads for sub £300

 

I was surprised at how easy they are to strip

Which shocks did you use? I used 4 new Sachs units the rears leaked after 1 year :/

You need to learn how to rebuild brakes it's easy I did my old j-specs with the chris Wilson kit then fitted good ridge hoses and drilled and grooved discs with pads for sub £300

 

I was surprised at how easy they are to strip

I'm more than capable of rebuilding a set of calipers. I did the UKs all round on my last Supra using CW parts.

Unfortunately, I'm so busy with work at the moment, I've just put the car on axle stands and sent the brakes off to these guys: http://www.brake-caliper-painting.com . Their labour charge is £55 for the fronts and £42 rears. They're blasted and painted and come with a 3yr warranty.

I bought genuine Toyota discs and pads. Not a fan of the cheap drilled / grooved discs.

Once the calipers are back, I can just bolt the lot back with no fuss.

Which shocks did you use? I used 4 new Sachs units the rears leaked after 1 year :/

I used o.e spec Kayaba's (KYB) heard a lot of good things about them. Sachs?? rings a bell, think eurocar parts sell sachs parts?

I used o.e spec Kayaba's (KYB) heard a lot of good things about them. Sachs?? rings a bell, think eurocar parts sell sachs parts?

KYB are good O.E replacements as are Sachs I just got unlucky

Uks are a different story I wouldnt touch my UKs that explains £600 though as your doing double the amount of pistons.

I just had my Uks Powder coated Gold with new decals and Jurgen stuck me some new toyota discs and pads on all around with some of Dudes Braided lines I wasnt impressed with the Goodridge build quality on my old car.

Indeed I wouldnt use Drilled and grooved Full stop on a UK setup but my old NA wasnt worth Genuine parts lmao although a set of Brembos BBK wouldnt go a miss its a bit overkill for my Weedy BPU.

Time is my friend though I suppose, Im a Lady of leisure and the Supra is in the garage for 7 months a year......

Time is my friend though I suppose, Im a Lady of leisure and the Supra is in the garage for 7 months a year......

Aw, you have no idea how jealous I am of that!! Haha! Try and leave the Supra at home as much as possible, but I'm afraid it has to go to work every so often when the other half needs the Volvo!

I'm surprised to hear that about Goodrich hoses. I was recommended by CW to use only those as others are not much cop. We shall see! They look alright to me though, I must admit.

KYB are good O.E replacements as are Sachs I just got unlucky

Im going to own up and say I think my rear passenger side failed, not because of build quality but because of the heavy driver. Not my fault I have all this muscle in weight

Im going to own up and say I think my rear passenger side failed, not because of build quality but because of the heavy driver. Not my fault I have all this muscle in weight

Haha In the end I wanted to hang myself my N/A turned into a fix or repair daily (or more commonly known as a Ford)

Aw, you have no idea how jealous I am of that!! Haha! Try and leave the Supra at home as much as possible, but I'm afraid it has to go to work every so often when the other half needs the Volvo!

 

I'm surprised to hear that about Goodrich hoses. I was recommended by CW to use only those as others are not much cop. We shall see! They look alright to me though, I must admit.

Both my old N/As were dailys but this one is a Garage Queen I heard if Supras come into contact with water or dirt they Dissolve