brake pad replacement

tried to replace my rear pads today myself, everything went well, even got the piston pushed back with little effort. My problem is the dust seal is protruding around the piston, this will probably tear if I try to slide caliper back over pads. Ive tried to push it back in with no luck. Also tried to lever the boot to the side incase theres an air pocket. There also seems to be a little fluid leaking from around the seal, is this normal when changing pads, thanks for any help guys.

also the inside pad was badly worn more on one side than the other.

There shouldn't be brake fluid getting past the piston seals, sounds like it's split. You'll need to replace the seal, caliper rebuild kits are available from Toyota and other brake companies, each kit includes everything needed to rebuid a pair of calipers. You'll need to know which brakes you have fitted, the Supra was fitted with 2 options the larger 4pot front/2pot rear and the smaller 2pot front/1pot rear, see here for pics.

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?249089-Supra-Brake-setups&highlight=brakes

that's what I needed to know, thanks nic.

that's what I needed to know, thanks nic.

If you need part numbers for the Toyota rebuild kits let me know which calipers it is for, or you could try http://biggred.co.uk/ I've used their rebuild kits and they are OEM quality.

Have you used w40 when cleaning?

Ive just emailed Big red 5 mins before reading your comment, hopefully get a good quote and have them sent away asap. Fed up with caliper problems, that's now the 3rd corner causing me issues. If the price is reasonable i'll send the 4 corners off.

They're getting very old so its to be expected, there's another company doing refurbished exchange

calipers.

http://www.brakeparts.co.uk i think the 2 piston fronts are approx £85 each if you exchange for your old ones

afaik the refurbed calipers are just that ie the piston and housing. Your inside brake pad that has worn unevenly could/is a sign that one of the caliper holders slider pins are stuck. With the caliper swung up out of the way the x2 17mm nut heads that that the 14mm caliper bolts that you just taken off, should push in and out and turn freely. If these are stuck then a new caliper won't cure your problem.

afaik the refurbed calipers are just that ie the piston and housing. Your inside brake pad that has worn unevenly could/is a sign that one of the caliper holders slider pins are stuck. With the caliper swung up out of the way the x2 17mm nut heads that that the 14mm caliper bolts that you just taken off, should push in and out and turn freely. If these are stuck then a new caliper won't cure your problem.

A good point and worth checking before you replace the caliper/s, not sure how much

the carriers are from Toyota.

If i were fitting new calipers i'd be replacing them as well unless they are in good

condition with no corrosion inside where the slider pins fit which is doubtful

Thanks for your input guys, I decided to send the carriers away also as it was only an extra £10 to have them cleaned up. Im now stuck at the moment on how to clamp the hoses while I remove the calipers, I would like to let the fluid drain and do a full flush but have read a few stories on here about air in the system while all fluid is drained out, seems sensible to change the fluid while theres still the old fluid there as far I have read.

im guessing this will do the trick? one for each side.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_214147_langId_-1_categoryId_255216#tab3

If you got some spare 8mm silicone hose, you can cut a small piece, and wedge it in the banjo fitting, this is what I do on my Braided lines, as they can't be clamped.

Or, what about a wad of blu tack squished in the banjo fitting?

blue tack, that's the kind of diy thinking that im looking for :-)

Smaller diameter bolt & nut with 2 washers, 2 x 1p coins either side and mole grips

See if you can get a vacuum bleeder as they work very nicely and you can bleed the

brakes on your own and no need to pump the peddle.

I tried the nut and bolt thing, but the damn fluid kept seeping through

Just bought 2 of the laser hose clamps, just taken one out the pack and look like they will do the job nicely. Too dark tonight too go out and try, does anyone know what size of socket I need to take the bolt off at the end of the hose where it joins the caliper. Cant wait to get the calipers sent away.

Pretty sure it's 14mm for the banjo bolt

Smaller diameter bolt & nut with 2 washers, 2 x 1p coins either side and mole grips

 

See if you can get a vacuum bleeder as they work very nicely and you can bleed the

brakes on your own and no need to pump the peddle.

will keep my eye out for a vacuum bleeder as im doing this on my own.

Ian C bought one he said was very good and not too much money, search his threads might tell you what he bought

Here you go its on post 9, the one i use is on post 4

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?274740-Long-brake-pedal-after-a-couple-of-hard-stops

thanks dnk

No problem

I used Motul RBF 600 or 660 brake fluid when i did my system, has better properties than normal dot stuff

No problem

 

I used Motul RBF 600 or 660 brake fluid when i did my system, has better properties than normal dot stuff

ill get it ordered for my calipers coming back, is this the time to replace rubber hoses to braided ones or do they really matter. I drive my car 300 miles a week back and forward to work so I don't need anything too performancey.

its not too dark mate, I'm off out to work on my brakes right now come on, you can do it!

yep its a 14mm, slackened off mine on sat and re-nipped ready for removal tonight if all goes to plan.

also when I did my research I came across the above threads mentioned- I have a vacuum kit on its way too, should make the job nice and easy to do alone

I'd definitely be fitting braided lines at the same time