Hi from the netherlands

Hi,

I've been a forum member for a few years now and I never took the time to introduce myself.

Today I wanted to respond to a for sale topic but I couldn't and I figured that it could have something to do with my post count

So Here I am, Marco is my name and I'm from the Netherlands.

I drive a MKIII Supra, and I've owned it for almost ten years now.

Bought it completely stock, replaced almost everything on the car, repainted it and rebuilt the good old 7M to 400+hp

It gave out and I sold the engine and upgrades and bought a 1jz-gte which is currently in my garage, waiting for some parts and the summer to arrive next year.

when I bought her:

http://members.home.nl/m.gombert/supra/stockashell/Marcosuup057.jpg

http://members.home.nl/m.gombert/supra/stockashell/Marcosuup005.jpg

http://members.home.nl/m.gombert/supra/stockashell/stock7m.jpg

Cheers!

Marco.

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My supra last year (with 7M):

7M setup

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1JZ in my garage, not completely done but some parts repainted:

Looks great! Welcome to the forum.

To have access to the classifieds section you need to be a paid member but it's well worth it. Only £10 a year, you won't find more info, parts and cars for sale than on here, well worth the money.

Welcome Marco.

Nice Supra.

Nice looking car, very very tidy! 7M = trouble 1 or 2JZ =

Welkom Marco

Thanks for the warm welcome people

Currently trying to get the 1JZ done. Got all new gaskets and timing belt, and most of it is installed already.

Need to have the triggerwheel welded for peace of mind, and already replaced the FMS.

Still looking for a (second hand?) intercooler set as the 7M intercooler is same-side and therefore will not fit the 1jz so I sold it.

Also got 440cc injectors from a JDM 2JZ-GTE and a matching MINES ecu with the injectors. Maybe some machined 2jz camshafts but that will be all for now upgrade-wise.

I shall bore you some with a video I made of the cleaning process of my injectors as they were clogged up to the point where they did nothing anymore and were completely stuck.

A colleague of mine made me a fuel injector driver so I could open and close the injectors while they are in an ultrasonic bath

Nice work with the ultra sound cleaner and pulser! Just make sure when you weld the star wheel trigger to the back of the cam belt drive pulley that NO weld can stop the pulley seating 100% fully against the crankshaft shoulder. I had a 2JZ in the other month with a loose damper. I retorqued it and it was loose again a few days later. Stripped it all off and the weld someone had put on the star wheel was lumpy and the three weld blobs were sat on the crank shoulder, and allowing movement and wear over time, with the damper coming loose. TIG it and file any weld that may interfere with a full seating.

There has been a big thread here:

http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi

on a DIY Arduino based pulser for injector testing and cleaning, but the archives are not up to date enough to view it without joining the list. It's quite an active one with some interesting stuff in it, from time to time.

Welcome Marco

Nice work with the ultra sound cleaner and pulser!

Thanks Cris!

Just make sure when you weld the star wheel trigger to the back of the cam belt drive pulley that NO weld can stop the pulley seating 100% fully against the crankshaft shoulder. I had a 2JZ in the other month with a loose damper. I retorqued it and it was loose again a few days later. Stripped it all off and the weld someone had put on the star wheel was lumpy and the three weld blobs were sat on the crank shoulder, and allowing movement and wear over time, with the damper coming loose. TIG it and file any weld that may interfere with a full seating.

thanks for the advise. Much appreciated.

A fellow supra enthusiast with a lot of 1jz-gte kwowledge is going to tig-weld my star wheel. He has done it multiple times so i'm sure the tig welding will be done right. (I can't weld )

I will check to make sure there is no big weld lump left behind and if so I'll file it down until it's smooth. thanks!

There has been a big thread here:

 

http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi

 

on a DIY Arduino based pulser for injector testing and cleaning, but the archives are not up to date enough to view it without joining the list. It's quite an active one with some interesting stuff in it, from time to time.

I'll check it out soon, hope to find some time between my work and working on my and other peoples supras.

Small update. Engine is slowly coming together

Mani with EGT sensor

and a 3" DP....

And painted piping.

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My apologies for the stamp-sized images

That looks great! The 1JZ is *SUCH* a nice engine, far better bore / stroke ratio than the 3 litre 2JZ. Turbine smooth and a nice free revving unit.

That looks great! The 1JZ is *SUCH* a nice engine, far better bore / stroke ratio than the 3 litre 2JZ. Turbine smooth and a nice free revving unit.

How would you rate the 1JZ against the RB25 and RB26 DET engines? And what are your thoughts on the VVTi 1JZ?

It's a much more modern engine than the RB25 or RB26. But the RB26DETT does offer multiple throttle bodies as stock, which is a big plus. The RB26 doesn't suffer the poor oil pump drain hole size the JZ's do. The JZ blocks are probably stiffer. The JZ oil drainage back to the sump is better. RB series have more hard line tuning bits, like factory race blocks, and a better off the shelf range of cam profiles. Dry sump systems are commercially available, but in a 4WD Skyline offer minimal advantages as crank centreline height is governed by the front diff in the sump. In a 2WD race car you could drop the engine a few inches with a dry sump.

Both are good engines. Without extensive mapping VVTi stuff may just add needless complexity, depends what you want to do with the engine, and how deep you feel like dipping into your pockets. Lack of VVTi cam profiles, (short of very expensive custom billet cams), is a hindrance.

Both are old school cast iron blocks, made without too much thought of light weight, main and big end bearing drag, and material costs, so are probably better for less than optimal tuning methods as they will be a lot stronger than many of the low drag, light weight alloy blocks that are now de rigeur.

Thank you

I recently had a conversation with a tuning journo on the merits of individual throttle bodies vs single throttle bodies on turbocharged engines, he maintains that ITBs make next to no difference. Glad you share my position.

There are those that do, and those that teach and write about things..... I err on accepting advice from those that do, to be frank. On all subjects