My new clutch setup, Good or bad?

Hi guys!

Going to order a new clutch and all the needed parts tonight from MVP Motorsports, made a list of the parts i thought would fit good but im no pro so can you guys mayby put in a comment if its good or if i should re-think my choises.

1. RPS Cyn-R-G Segmented flywheel

2. RPS Sport Clutch with Sprung Hub ( 6-puck )

3. Toyota OEM Clutch install kit (all bearings FW bolts and stuff)

Not planning to go anything over BPU, mayby not even full BPU.

Whats is your experiences with the parts?

Any big chatter problems with the Cyn-R-G ?

Please give me your thoughts!

/ Wigge

Why would you buy a race type clutch if not going anything over BPU? It's asking for high wear rates and potential judder or poor release characteristics. I do a fast road clutch kit that easily copes with BPU and a bit beyond. If you are interested I can send info, or search my name in the For Sale section, and look for clutches. Cheers.

Fit a clutch to suit the use and power of the car, you can ruin the driving experience by fitting the wrong clutch.

chris, you need to make a smooth organic na-t clutch

didnt thought this clutch was so overpower the sport clutch is the most basic rps have at MVP and the 6-p is the only one available with sprung disk. but if you guys say its to much, well Ill take a look on that clutch Chris

For what power range is this setup that a wrote suitable for?

/ Wigge

Available now: Uprated MKIV TT clutches.

I use the stock, brand new driven plate, as it is correctly

balanced, doesn't judder and will hold all but mega torque

highly modded engines or cars used for drag racing.

I modify a stock brand new cover to give more clamping force.

The reason I tooled up to do these is some of the aftermarket

US clutches I have fitted SEEM to be built from used cover

assemblies with reground friction surfaces, and a stronger

spring. I have had hellish trouble getting these to fully

release, because due to this seemingly thinner cast iron

friction face, the geometry of the clutch goes to pot, and

being a pull type clutch (the hydraulics pull the bearing

away from the engine, rather than the more normal push type)

it is a lot harder to effect a cure.

For 455 pounds plus VAT , you get a brand new driven

plate, a brand new modded cover, and a brand new release

bearing. I would rather fit myself so any complaints are down

to me, I see a lot of clutches damaged by people without the right gear

(a ramp and transmission jack, plus correct circlip tools and fitment)

or clutches fitted to patently *uggered flywheels. I will do a supply

only if you feel competent to tackle the job or are using a bona fide garage to

fit the clutch

Toyota use a dual mass flywheel (the flywheel is in 2 parts, an inner and

outer assembly, damped in the middle) which is now showing signs

of wear causing a lot of rattle when idling or on very light

throttle openings. For God knows what reason they are charging

about £400 + VAT for a new one, they look more like they should be

over 500 to me, but don't say anything :-) The very similar LUK dual

mass flywheel on Maseratis is nearly £1000 + VAT.... So if the flywheels

old enough or abused enough to be scored it should be replaced.

Fitting by myself will cost £175 + VAT.

Reply privately if interested please. [email protected]

chris, you need to make a smooth organic na-t clutch

I do, but I am always loathe to recommend people run the 5 speed box behind a turbo engine, it just plain isn't up to the job. I have the clutch set with a fairly mild clamping force, so it will tend to slip a little rather than break the `box. But a tired `box will still fail given much grief.

I'm with Chris Wilson.

An uprated clutch is noisy and often suffers from a hard pedal and and an on off function.

If you are staying BPU do not go further than you have to it will make for a miserable drive.