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The definitive parts list for a reletively simple single turbo build


marc_p
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Right guys, seeing as it's quiet at work I thought I would give you a list for all those wanting to go for a reasonable Single build.

 

I couldn't really find any threads that had a defined list of what you NEED and what is recommended and seeing that I am in the process of doing my conversion, I thought I would give you guys a list, I will break it down into categories for you to make it a little easier, bear in mind that I am doing this on a 70k mile engine with a 6-speed Getrag(V161) box, I will list the parts that I purchased but will mark 'or alternative' where the option of make/model/size is up to you:

 

Engine:

 

First up is a breakdown of what I got from Paul at Whifbitz in the single turbo kit if you wish to piece it together yourself.

 

-Borg Warner S366 Turbo(or alternative)

 

-Whifbitz twin wastegate manifold(or alternative)

 

-1 or 2 wastegates depending on manifold(I went for 2x Turbosmart 40mm's)

 

-Screamer pipes if wastegates are not plumbed back in

 

-4" Alloy intake pipe w/K&N air filter(or alternative, size depends on the turbo)

 

-Billet alluminium Oil drain flanges with AN fitting.

 

-Goodridge Braided oil feed and oil drain lines(or alternative make)

 

-K&N Idle control Valve filter(or alternative make)

 

-3.5" Whifbitz V-Band Downpipe (or alternative make/size)

 

-2.5" FMIC piping for turbo to FMIC

 

 

 

Then there is the additional parts that you will need:

 

-New exhaust gasket(standard are crush-able and I wouldn't recommend re-using)

 

-3.75" Kakimoto exhaust(or alternative, but I wouldn't recommend anything below 3.5")

 

-New Toyota OEM water pump(I wouldn't recommend patten parts for a crucial item like this)

 

-Gates Racing cambelt(or alternative, as you have to remove cambelt to replace water pump, I highly recommend replacing the cambelt with an uprated item)

 

-Garage Whifbitz billet cambelt tensioner bracket(or alternative make, some people don't replace this but I recommend doing it as the factory cast one has a tendency to break when increasing the power, which would do a lot of damage)

 

-New Toyota OEM cambelt tensioner(seeing as you already replaced the above items, it would seem silly to not do this whilst you are there)

 

-Garage Whifbitz Magnetic sump plug(or alternative, this is not needed but it's a cheap item and stops nasty metal filings floating around in the oil and doing damage)

 

-New OEM crank pulley(if you are still on the original, I would heavily recommend replacing this).

 

-Uprated spark plugs(you will need to get better spark plugs in there but best to consult the spark plug guide for the ones that match your requirements)

 

-New Toyota OEM Oil pump (depending on the mileage of the engine and the current oil pressure the car is holding, it is recommended to replace this when going single, however, be aware that replacing the oil pump requires either lifting the engine out or dropping the subframe to get the sump off, which then allows you to get the oil pump off and on, if you are handy with the spanner though, don't be frightened by the prospect of this, it's not as hard as it sounds, for reference, I'll be getting a support beam for the engine and dropping the subframe to do this)

 

Fueling:

 

-Aeromotive Fuel Pressure regulator(or alternative)

 

-Garage Whifbitz Fuel Pressure Regulator fitting kit(or alternative)

 

-Sard 800cc Drop-in injectors(or alternative make/size depending on power gains wanted)

 

-Bosch 044 Fuel Pump(or alternative make/specs depending on power gains wanted)

 

-Bosch in-tank adapter for above fuel pump(or alternative depending on fuel pump wanted)

 

-Garage Whifbitz Fuel pulsation damper removal hose(or alternative, this is not a requirement, but it's not an expensive item and helps increase the fuel flow, plus easy to replace when you are doing the injectors/FPR)

 

-New Toyota OEM fuel filter(not needed but recommended and again it's easy to get to when doing the other fuelling parts)

 

 

Cooling:

 

-AFR Custom FMIC(or alternative, just research which is best for the power gains you want)

 

-Koyorad uprated radiator(or alternative, this is not needed, just recommended, but depending on power gains wanted you could be perfectly fine on the original rad if it's still in reasonable condition)

 

-Mocal 9 row oil cooler(or alternative)

 

 

Drivetrain:

 

-Clutch!!! (Your standard clutch will barely hold BPU, yet alone single, but the clutch you need all depends on the power and clutch feel you are after).

 

-Flywheel (when replacing the above, do the flywheel at the same time, you can uprate to a lightened one, but a standard one is perfectly fine aswell)

 

 

Management/Electrics:

 

-Motec M600 ECU (or alternative, you can try a piggyback if your are after lower power levels(sub-600bhp) but I would put my weight on recommending a stand-alone ECU)

 

-HKS EVC Boost controller(or alternative, you could also have the boost controlled through the ECU, personal preference)

 

-AEM AFR gauge(or alternative, not needed to get your car up and running, but I feel it's something you really need to keep an eye on things)

 

 

 

And don't forget to give it an oil and filter change with the recommended oil for your specs.

 

So that is the list, I am doing more than the above with other uprated parts, lightened pulleys, suspension parts, electric fans, poly bushing, etc, etc, but the above is what I recommend you do as a minimum if you are wanting a reliable set up for 600bhp-700bhp on an unopened block. Don't get daunted by the list, it is by no means cheap to go single, but if needed you can take your time collecting parts when you can afford them and grabbing those second hand bargains over a period of time until you have everything you need.

 

I'm not trying to put anybody off going single here(hell, I want to encourage as many people as I can to go single), but I want people to know the parts that are involved as I was scrabbling round multiple forums collecting info from everywhere to find out what I should be getting, so I'm hoping the above list may help others out :).

 

Thanks

 

Marc

 

p.s. I may have forgotten parts so shout out if I have and I can update the above.

Edited by marc_p (see edit history)
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What about injectors ??

 

And why an uprated cam belt ?

 

Injectors are in there, look again;)

 

Why the uprated cambelt? fair question, to answer that, your standard cambelt was designed on an engine running 326bhp, so when doubling that power, it will be putting considerable more wear on that belt, and with a new OEM belt costing around £40 and a belt like the gates racing one(that is 300% stronger than OEM) costing around £80, it doesn't make much sense replacing the cambelt with an OEM item to save £40 when you are going to be spending £8k+ on a single conversion :).

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Guest Budz86

If you are doing everything else it may be worth doing the oil pump at the same time - one of the top ten items you don't want to fail!

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Lots of wrong info there...

 

Happy to take criticism on the list, but please be more helpful than just stating it's wrong.

 

If you are doing everything else it may be worth doing the oil pump at the same time - one of the top ten items you don't want to fail!

 

I thought about the oil pump as I have one sat here to put on mine, the issue with the oil pump though is that it requires either hoisting the motor out or dropping the sub frame and if your current one has good pressure, it's not needed, just a good idea to replace whilst you have the engine out.

 

I'll add it to the list as a recommendation though :)

 

Really?

 

I thought it was quite a good list, nice one Marc. :thumbs:

 

Thanks :)

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Why the uprated cambelt? fair question, to answer that, your standard cambelt was designed on an engine running 326bhp, so when doubling that power, it will be putting considerable more wear on that belt, and with a new OEM belt costing around £40 and a belt like the gates racing one(that is 300% stronger than OEM) costing around £80, it doesn't make much sense replacing the cambelt with an OEM item to save £40 when you are going to be spending £8k+ on a single conversion :).

 

Not a criticism, more of a curiosity on my part.... but surely the engine speeds are the same as before (in most cases) when going single turbo, therefore there should be no additional load on the timing belt if there is not a substantial rev-limit increase? Not saying you shouldn't replace the timing belt for an aftermarket one, just didn't think it was a 'must-have' and that an OEM one would be sufficient in most applications? Or am I not thinking along the right track?

 

Well done for doing the list though, I'm sure once it's fine tuned it will be helpful for people.

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Not a criticism, more of a curiosity on my part.... but surely the engine speeds are the same as before (in most cases) when going single turbo, therefore there should be no additional load on the timing belt if there is not a substantial rev-limit increase? Not saying you shouldn't replace the timing belt for an aftermarket one, just didn't think it was a 'must-have' and that an OEM one would be sufficient in most applications? Or am I not thinking along the right track?

 

Well done for doing the list though, I'm sure once it's fine tuned it will be helpful for people.

 

Yup, you are correct in that if you were driving in the same manner, an OEM belt shouldn't see any issues, singles tend to get driven a lot harder though and the rev limits are usually raised a little, with the uprated Kevlar belts being much harder wearing means that it will allow me to still stick to my 3 year/30,000 mile cambelt rule.

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Good List Marc

 

Certainly gives us an idea for some of us who are thinking of taking the Single route

 

Not a criticism, more of a curiosity on my part.... but surely the engine speeds are the same as before (in most cases) when going single turbo, therefore there should be no additional load on the timing belt if there is not a substantial rev-limit increase? Not saying you shouldn't replace the timing belt for an aftermarket one, just didn't think it was a 'must-have' and that an OEM one would be sufficient in most applications? Or am I not thinking along the right track?

 

Well done for doing the list though, I'm sure once it's fine tuned it will be helpful for people.

 

I would uprate my timing belt .... for the sake of an extra £100 or so to save your engine ... a belt that was design to handle lots of power

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Why no less than a 3.5" exhaust? I thought 3" was good for flow up to around 700hp.....

 

I think you would be pushing it at 700hp on a 3", but I don't think anything should be running at it's limit anyway, just like 700cc injectors are good for 700 bhp, but I'd recommend 800cc injectors. Plus, when you start increasing power, you always want more and by going for a 3.5"-4" it allows more room, rather than having to replace the exhaust again.

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*well thought out comprehensive list*

 

That's £3K of anybody's money well spent :)

 

ps. once you have the 600hp under your right foot, then the modifying devil sat on your shoulder will start whispering things like...... "REALLY need mechanical LSD!"......."mmmm.... definitely NEED stickier rubber", b*ll*x need MORE sticky rubber already!...... "perhaps traction control isn't just for wimps!" .... suspension what do I do about that? etc. etc.

Edited by Nic (see edit history)
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There is a lot of stuff in that list which I think is beyond a "simple" single turbo install. The list covers maintenance items, things I'd regard as superfluous, and things that are beyond simple, so here's the items I'd remove:

 

-Whifbitz twin wastegate manifold(or alternative)

-1 or 2 wastegates depending on manifold(I went for 2x Turbosmart 40mm's)

Single wastegate is enough, so the manifold can be different to that

 

-New Toyota OEM water pump(I wouldn't recommend patten parts for a crucial item like this)

Not unless you need it

 

-Gates Racing cambelt

Not required at all, stock is perfectly fine

 

-Garage Whifbitz billet cambelt tensioner bracket(or alternative make, some people don't replace this but I recommend doing it as the factory cast one has a tendency to break when increasing the power, which would do a lot of damage)

Don't confuse boost power with rev limit, also I've not heard of a bigger turbo ever being the cause for one of these going

 

-New Toyota OEM cambelt tensioner(seeing as you already replaced the above items, it would seem silly to not do this whilst you are there)

Not unless you need it

 

-Garage Whifbitz Magnetic sump plug(or alternative, this is not needed but it's a cheap item and stops nasty metal filings floating around in the oil and doing damage)

As you say, not needed, plus the stock one is magnetic anyway, something people forget when justifying shiny thing purchases :)

 

-New OEM crank pulley(if you are still on the original, I would heavily recommend replacing this).

Not unless you need it

 

 

-New Toyota OEM Oil pump (depending on the mileage of the engine and the current oil pressure the car is holding, it is recommended to replace this when going single, however, be aware that replacing the oil pump requires either lifting the engine out or dropping the subframe to get the sump off, which then allows you to get the oil pump off and on, if you are handy with the spanner though, don't be frightened by the prospect of this, it's not as hard as it sounds, for reference, I'll be getting a support beam for the engine and dropping the subframe to do this)

Not unless you need it

 

-Aeromotive Fuel Pressure regulator(or alternative)

Not required with drop-in injectors on a stock fuel rail

 

-Garage Whifbitz Fuel Pressure Regulator fitting kit(or alternative)

Not required if sticking with stock FPR

 

-Sard 800cc Drop-in injectors(or alternative make/size depending on power gains wanted)

650's would be enough

 

-Bosch in-tank adapter for above fuel pump(or alternative depending on fuel pump wanted)

Not needed if you fit a Walbro

 

-Garage Whifbitz Fuel pulsation damper removal hose(or alternative, this is not a requirement, but it's not an expensive item and helps increase the fuel flow, plus easy to replace when you are doing the injectors/FPR)

Not needed

 

-AFR Custom FMIC(or alternative, just research which is best for the power gains you want)

A CW SMIC would also feed a simple single turbo setup and require less pipework/modification/installation

 

-Koyorad uprated radiator(or alternative, this is not needed, just recommended, but depending on power gains wanted you could be perfectly fine on the original rad if it's still in reasonable condition)

Not needed, OEM all the way, but it does need to be in good condition.

 

-Mocal 9 row oil cooler(or alternative)

Not needed unless you do serious track work

 

-Flywheel (when replacing the above, do the flywheel at the same time, you can uprate to a lightened one, but a standard one is perfectly fine aswell)

Not unless you need it, and pretty much no-one likes the noise results of a lightened flywheel :)

 

-Motec M600 ECU (or alternative, you can try a piggyback if your are after lower power levels(sub-600bhp) but I would put my weight on recommending a stand-alone ECU)

If it's a "simple" installation then a piggyback ECU is perfectly capable.

 

Also, you'd need:

Oil feed line for the turbo

OEM turbo water feeds - capping or piping and fittings to the new turbo

Turbo blanket/exhaust wrap

PCV piping

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There is a lot of stuff in that list which I think is beyond a "simple" single turbo install. The list covers maintenance items, things I'd regard as superfluous, and things that are beyond simple, so here's the items I'd remove:

 

-Whifbitz twin wastegate manifold(or alternative)

-1 or 2 wastegates depending on manifold(I went for 2x Turbosmart 40mm's)

Single wastegate is enough, so the manifold can be different to that

 

-New Toyota OEM water pump(I wouldn't recommend patten parts for a crucial item like this)

Not unless you need it

 

-Gates Racing cambelt

Not required at all, stock is perfectly fine

 

-Garage Whifbitz billet cambelt tensioner bracket(or alternative make, some people don't replace this but I recommend doing it as the factory cast one has a tendency to break when increasing the power, which would do a lot of damage)

Don't confuse boost power with rev limit, also I've not heard of a bigger turbo ever being the cause for one of these going

 

-New Toyota OEM cambelt tensioner(seeing as you already replaced the above items, it would seem silly to not do this whilst you are there)

Not unless you need it

 

-Garage Whifbitz Magnetic sump plug(or alternative, this is not needed but it's a cheap item and stops nasty metal filings floating around in the oil and doing damage)

As you say, not needed, plus the stock one is magnetic anyway, something people forget when justifying shiny thing purchases :)

 

-New OEM crank pulley(if you are still on the original, I would heavily recommend replacing this).

Not unless you need it

 

 

-New Toyota OEM Oil pump (depending on the mileage of the engine and the current oil pressure the car is holding, it is recommended to replace this when going single, however, be aware that replacing the oil pump requires either lifting the engine out or dropping the subframe to get the sump off, which then allows you to get the oil pump off and on, if you are handy with the spanner though, don't be frightened by the prospect of this, it's not as hard as it sounds, for reference, I'll be getting a support beam for the engine and dropping the subframe to do this)

Not unless you need it

 

-Aeromotive Fuel Pressure regulator(or alternative)

Not required with drop-in injectors on a stock fuel rail

 

-Garage Whifbitz Fuel Pressure Regulator fitting kit(or alternative)

Not required if sticking with stock FPR

 

-Sard 800cc Drop-in injectors(or alternative make/size depending on power gains wanted)

650's would be enough

 

-Bosch in-tank adapter for above fuel pump(or alternative depending on fuel pump wanted)

Not needed if you fit a Walbro

 

-Garage Whifbitz Fuel pulsation damper removal hose(or alternative, this is not a requirement, but it's not an expensive item and helps increase the fuel flow, plus easy to replace when you are doing the injectors/FPR)

Not needed

 

-AFR Custom FMIC(or alternative, just research which is best for the power gains you want)

A CW SMIC would also feed a simple single turbo setup and require less pipework/modification/installation

 

-Koyorad uprated radiator(or alternative, this is not needed, just recommended, but depending on power gains wanted you could be perfectly fine on the original rad if it's still in reasonable condition)

Not needed, OEM all the way, but it does need to be in good condition.

 

-Mocal 9 row oil cooler(or alternative)

Not needed unless you do serious track work

 

-Flywheel (when replacing the above, do the flywheel at the same time, you can uprate to a lightened one, but a standard one is perfectly fine aswell)

Not unless you need it, and pretty much no-one likes the noise results of a lightened flywheel :)

 

-Motec M600 ECU (or alternative, you can try a piggyback if your are after lower power levels(sub-600bhp) but I would put my weight on recommending a stand-alone ECU)

If it's a "simple" installation then a piggyback ECU is perfectly capable.

 

Also, you'd need:

Oil feed line for the turbo

OEM turbo water feeds - capping or piping and fittings to the new turbo

Turbo blanket/exhaust wrap

PCV piping

 

All of this is what I meant, I was just too lazy to type it! :D

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There is a lot of stuff in that list which I think is beyond a "simple" single turbo install. The list covers maintenance items, things I'd regard as superfluous, and things that are beyond simple, so here's the items I'd remove:

 

-Whifbitz twin wastegate manifold(or alternative)

-1 or 2 wastegates depending on manifold(I went for 2x Turbosmart 40mm's)

Single wastegate is enough, so the manifold can be different to that

 

I think you are missing the point on my 'or alternative' all of your points are me saying 'or alternative' where there is a choice available and then you saying things like 'single wastegate is enough' above.

 

Plus I stated in the title that these are recommended parts aswell, not just parts you need, as I couldn't find a list like this anywhere when I was getting my kit together.

 

Points noted on the items you stated at the bottom, I'll add them to the list, thanks :thumbs:.

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