Car wont start

Lately for the past week or so ive had trouble starting my car, once started and warm it seems fine and will start again no problem. I have to keep the starter engaged just to keep the thing running or it will gradually cut out as soon as its started. It usually runs after about 5 times doing this but if I press the accelerator it will cut out and I have to very gently press it gradually building the revs until it runs properly. What could this be?

Honestly, from what I've read it could be literally anything on your car. It needs to go to a proper garage, on a flatbed, if you can't afford it then start saving but don't start tinkering, a I promise you'll make it worse (if that's technically possible).

I would guess that the car has a number of issues that are manifesting and only time on a ramp and with the right skilled people are going to diagnose and fix them all.

What the syvecs is showing, not sure if this is related as once the cars eventually running its fine. Just dont know what would cause this when its cold.

yeah mate if you can afford engines and other parts then i would just send it to be sorted. it could be some sort of electrical faults because alot of different things are playing up.

atleast sending it somewhere you dont have to mess around looking yourself

Several people have suggested getting it professionally looked at and fixed, several times, including myself, yet regardless of the fact that it just seems to get worse/go wrong again/another problem crops up, you continue to ignore everyone and attempt to fix it yourself.

Rather than buying £100 floor mats and tyre paint, take it to a specialist garage.

In the words of Peter Jones "I'm out".

yeah mate if you can afford engines and other parts then i would just send it to be sorted. it could be some sort of electrical faults because alot of different things are playing up.

atleast sending it somewhere you dont have to mess around looking yourself

I have more than enough money to get it sorted its just complex as I was going to take my gearbox off at the weekend to send to Titan to get that sorted, so while thats off no one can sort the above problem. I have already arranged with Dude to go over my car once I got the gearbox back but now this stupid little problem occured.

Several people have suggested getting it professionally looked at and fixed, several times, including myself, yet regardless of the fact that it just seems to get worse/go wrong again/another problem crops up, you continue to ignore everyone and attempt to fix it yourself.

 

Rather than buying £100 floor mats and tyre paint, take it to a specialist garage.

 

In the words of Peter Jones "I'm out".

Erm, money isnt the issue here as ive said before but people are ignoring the fact that I cant send the car to be fixed with other parts being repaired off the car!!!!!

i would leave it then mate untill you have your gearbox back. saves you the hassle and the headache too

i would leave it then mate untill you have your gearbox back. saves you the hassle and the headache too

I know mate im gunno have too. If I didnt have money I wouldnt have a car like this but I have so I have. Its just when a million things happen at once it Fs the plans up for the other million problems that were gunno get sorted.

I would start with what ever YOU have touched recently, and im pritty sure it will be the issue,

Dont be the boy that cries wolf, if you have money then sometimes its best left to the pro'S, I know your eager to learn but you need more basic knowledge imo, buy any car that has a hynes manual a practice ghere first and save a wedge.

I would start with what ever YOU have touched recently, and im pritty sure it will be the issue,

Dont be the boy that cries wolf, if you have money then sometimes its best left to the pro'S, I know your eager to learn but you need more basic knowledge imo, buy any car that has a hynes manual a practice ghere first and save a wedge.

I havent touched anything lol. I seem to wake up and take the car out and something goes wrong. I will get it sorted im getting parts together to have it built properly by a proffesional. Im not keen on doing certain things myself as I havent got the time but if somethings wrong then theres no harm in lifting the bonnet to find the obvious but thats as far as it goes.

Im not gunno start touching stuff if I dont know the problem im just after a simple few answers of things that could cause this. I will take to a garage but theres no harm in trying to diagnose the problem meanwhile.

Like yesterday I got it started drove around all day parked up for an hour started first time no issues. Its just when the engines cold it really has trouble.

Can I coolant sensor break if an engine gets too hot? Thinking about it this has started happening since my syvecs display shot up to 120 degrees coolant temp. And now the display will show 100 degrees perminantly even cold in the morning. Im unsure of the cause if it did over heat as my water level is fine it was cold outside and I wernt really driving it hard either. Just a thought as I read a bad coolant temp sensor can cause problems on a cold start.

Coolant temp sensor or it's wiring. Does it show the correct water temperature in the syvecs? If it doesn't know what temperature the coolant is at, it wont be able to perform ASE (basically choke it up for a cold start like a carbed engine)

Coolant temp sensor or it's wiring. Does it show the correct water temperature in the syvecs? If it doesn't know what temperature the coolant is at, it wont be able to perform ASE (choke it up for a cold start).

The Toucan display is showing 100 degrees and thats as soon as it powers up engine not running cold left over night. Why is it stuck showing this figure?

because the coolant temp sensor or it's wiring to the syvecs are knackered. if it's showing 100 degrees, you've not got a chance in hell of a decent cold start, it's not injecting enough fuel to cater for the cold start.

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take the coolant temp sensor out, measure the resistance across it and check that with figures on the web, if it's a mile out, there's you're issue.

How can it get damaged, would 120 degrees damage it because thats what the max marker is on what it has recently reached. Thats good news now im getting somewhere thanks! A sensor is cheap as chips so I can try this and see if it solves.

yeh, if the sensor's getting on a bit and had a hard life, that could quite possibly kill it. I would check the wiring for it too. The readings should change when you unplug it. If not, short the terminals out, then it should change. If not, you've got a wiring fault instead.

yeh, if the sensor's getting on a bit and had a hard life, that could quite possibly kill it. I would check the wiring for it too. The readings should change when you unplug it. If not, short the terminals out, then it should change. If not, you've got a wiring fault instead.

The Syvecs and sensors and wiring is not that old at all it was installed a few years back as new. So if I unplug it my temp snesor the reading should change, or if not then short the temp sensor wiring? Will this not blow anything?

The Syvecs and sensors and wiring is not that old at all it was installed a few years back as new. So if I unplug it my temp snesor the reading should change, or if not then short the temp sensor wiring? Will this not blow anything?

No, it's basically a thermistor. It's only changing resistance, there's no real voltage involved. When your engine temperature changes, so does the resistance across the two terminals.

It could be a bad join, a bad patch harness, a knackered connector, a broken wire or a screwed sensor. Could even be a dead input on the syvecs. But it's usually the sensor!

No, it's basically a thermistor. It's only changing resistance, there's no real voltage involved. When your engine temperature changes, so does the resistance across the two terminals.

 

It could be a bad join, a bad patch harness, a knackered connector, a broken wire or a screwed sensor. Could even be a dead input on the syvecs. But it's usually the sensor!

Ok so if I simply unplug the sensor should I expect the car to start or just a change in the gauge reading? This is also happened to my Syvecs oil temp sensor aswel and seems a bit odd that both sensors have done this at the same time.

Ok so if I simply unplug the sensor should I expect the car to start or just a change in the gauge reading? This is also happened to my Syvecs oil temp sensor aswel and seems a bit odd that both sensors have done this at the same time.

no it won't start properly as it doesn't have a clue how hot or cold it is. you need to check your sensor grounds in that case, sounds like you've a right bag of spanners there.

when you unplug the sensor the reading should change. if it doesn't, short the terminals out. if it still doesn't, fix the wiring. if it does, change the sensor.

if it's the sensor that's shot, replace it before even turning the key again. all you'll end up doing is running lean and melting a hole in your piston! i dont know how the syvecs deals with knock if theres no clt connected, some ecu's go into failsafe and run on the ve table only.

if you're not confident in any of this, don't touch the thing and let someone who knows what they're doing sort it. i've only seen a few of your threads, but it would appear that car's spent more time conked than it has running.

no it won't start properly as it doesn't have a clue how hot or cold it is. you need to check your sensor grounds in that case, sounds like you've a right bag of spanners there.

 

when you unplug the sensor the reading should change. if it doesn't, short the terminals out. if it still doesn't, fix the wiring. if it does, change the sensor.

 

if it's the sensor that's shot, replace it before even turning the key again. all you'll end up doing is running lean and melting a hole in your piston! i dont know how the syvecs deals with knock if theres no clt connected, some ecu's go into failsafe and run on the ve table only.

 

if you're not confident in any of this, don't touch the thing and let someone who knows what they're doing sort it. i've only seen a few of your threads, but it would appear that car's spent more time conked than it has running.

I bought the car like this but as a project so im not bothered as its being rebuilt, I just didnt expect this many things to go wrong with it straight away lol. Im confident that I can test the sensor as you've said above but if none of this works then i'll add it to the list of things for the garage to sort out.

Thanks for your time and help

I bought the car like this but as a project so im not bothered as its being rebuilt, I just didnt expect this many things to go wrong with it straight away lol. Im confident that I can test the sensor as you've said above but if none of this works then i'll add it to the list of things for the garage to sort out.

 

Thanks for your time and help

no bother. to test the sensor properly, get yourself a multimeter and a pan of water on the hob. gradually heat the water up whilst measuring the resistance of the sensor. you'll find the values that it should read in the workshop manual or on here somewhere. that's your best bet for out ruling the sensor all together.

no bother. to test the sensor properly, get yourself a multimeter and a pan of water on the hob. gradually heat the water up whilst measuring the resistance of the sensor. you'll find the values that it should read in the workshop manual or on here somewhere. that's your best bet for out ruling the sensor all together.

This will be the better option, I do have a multimeter but ive never used it tho. I'll check the resistance values and see what the sensor is reading.