budget setup for 450-500whp

Sorry for the long type up but any help/input would be great, cheers!

Current performance mods:

3" exhaust, DP, midpipe.

ARC 2 row IC

Denso drop-in 550cc Injectors on stock rail

Walbro 255pump

HKS F-CON S

(might possibley have HKS 264 cams as well, need to pull my cam covers off and check).

Have been running BPU (TTC mode) about 500 miles or so now.

Car recently made 367whp and 349whp at 18.5psi (1.25 bar). This was with a faulty/badly setup HKS EVC4 and bad tune,

and only one pull was made due to some engine knocking at higher RPM. HKS piggyback came with car from Japan.

Around here (I'm not in the UK btw..), no one will tune this HKS.

I was planning to do a single setup soon but not this soon, I'm also tight on $$$ at the moment but I can still manage.

Basically my turbo seals are on the way out/or gone. Found a lot of fresh oil in intercooler pipes, I have been losing a little bit of oil, also blue smoke on cold star up, take-off's and when boosting. I don't want to put anymore money towards TT setup and go straight to single.

My plan for now is keep the 550cc Injectors, swap out the HKS for a MAP ECU piggyback (essentially the samething but at least I can have it tuned, and for less). Also will upgrade to a bigger Walbro 400lph pump. I know some people will advice against piggyback but around here many people run them and they are just fine for these power levels.

My questions:

I have read that on Supra's, 1 Injector cc = 1whp (so 550 = 550whp)? I know that's MAXING them out if that's even possible. Would I be able to achieve 500whp safely? IF NOT, I plan to settle around 450whp range till I could upgrade to something larger.

Would my 2 row intercooler be too restrictive or ideal for my power? or would 3 row add benefit or just more lag?

I'm aiming for a setup that will outperform my BPU TTC setup. So full spool at or before 4000rpm.

I have been thinking precision 6262 .68 A/R with cast manifold with a 3" downpipe. Or any reason why I should go tubular? I figured cast would be better for low end power on the street. I know it will make the power, then I can turn it up to 500 or so.

THIS IS a street car daily driver (only stored away for winters).

So by budget what I mean is if I can keep my 550cc and intercooler for my power goals?

I'm really not looking to make all that much power for 2JZ standards so looking to work with that I got, since I'm away 100whp+ from my goals.

I want 500whp, just keep it nice and simple, and leave the stock fuel lines alone.

I'm underestimating for 450 for now since I'm not sure if my Injectors will support the power.

My advise to you would be to not do it on a budget and keep your BPU setup and spend the money getting that running sweetly

I would defo go for a small turbo 60-62mm if you want to go single.

I doubt the 550cc injectors will support 550bhp (certainly not rwhp).

I had 720cc injectors when I was running a small 60mm tubbie, and then went for 850cc when the power went up. If you plan on upgrading the pump, I would upgrade the injectors too.

Get a small sized turbo like luxluc said, but the 550cc injectors will max out at 500-550hp.

You could get the HKS F-con cable and software from Ebay at one point for £100, but couldnt find it anymore. If you can find it, It's just another ECU and anyone with some experience with standalones can tune it. I would keep it instead of an MAP-ecu for sure if you will find the software.

My setup ran 500bhp at 1.3bar on very similar set-up, see my garage for spec.

edited my post added some more info

Precision 6262 is a 62mm, and with a .68 A/R seems good and the price is rather good. So I'm rather decided on it, and they make great power.

Hmm, I guess I could always just sell off the 550's which would offset the cost of a new set.

What size would be ideal for 500whp ? in BHP I'm guessing that's around 550bhp or so.

Get a small sized turbo like luxluc said, but the 550cc injectors will max out at 500-550hp.

 

You could get the HKS F-con cable and software from Ebay at one point for £100, but couldnt find it anymore. If you can find it, It's just another ECU and anyone with some experience with standalones can tune it. I would keep it instead of an MAP-ecu for sure if you will find the software.

Have looked into it already! was planning on keeping it but only found one person who can tune it but is a long drive away and will charge an arm and leg. Luckly It has a harness so can be simply unhooked.

I wouldn't be going single on an engine that has knocking at higher rpm.

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You want some 650cc injectors or i would go higher for furture power.

Sorry if i've missed it but i wouldn't be shoving 600 hp through a motor that

has knocking noises and by the sounds of it other issues that should be looked

at first.

How many miles has the motor done ?

Sorry if i've missed it but i wouldn't be shoving 600 hp through a motor that

has knocking noises and by the sounds of it other issues that should be looked

at first.

 

How many miles has the motor done ?

This! Nothing quite like adding some extra power to destroy an engine that's already giving indications that summink ain't right!!

Was it it not higher rev knock detection rather than a knock (as in knock knock)

I wouldn't be going single on an engine that has knocking at higher rpm.

Sorry if i've missed it but i wouldn't be shoving 600 hp through a motor that

has knocking noises and by the sounds of it other issues that should be looked

at first.

 

How many miles has the motor done ?

This, if there is already knocking present then this will need addressing otherwise the money you put into going single considerably increase down the the line

Was it it not higher rev knock detection rather than a knock (as in knock knock)

Who's there?..... "Mr.knocking engine with 500ponies which will blow up at anytime"

My advise would be to get the knock sorted, a knock is a knock, needs sorting or your just wasting money

Who's there?.....

Big end...

Big end...

Big end who? "big end 4 who was meant to be in the block"

My advise to you would be to not do it on a budget and keep your BPU setup and spend the money getting that running sweetly

Not sure if anyone has noticed or mentioned, but I wouldn't try and run higher power through a stock engine with a knock.

Big end who? "big end 4 who was meant to be in the block"

Just make sure if you up the power with a knock, that you buy yourself a baseball mitt to catch the pieces of engine as they try to escape!

My advise to you would be to not do it on a budget and keep your BPU setup and spend the money getting that running sweetly

Don't do it.

Guys, I think he's referring the knock as detonation in the upper revs because of poor tuning of the ECU.

Oil in the intercooler pipes is fairly normal when the stock PCV vents to the intake side. Puff of blue smoke on start up is usually because of the valve stem seals. If it happens also on boosting, check the intake manifold side PCV check valve that comes from the valve covers that it isn't jammed open.

Guys, I think he's referring the knock as detonation in the upper revs because of poor tuning of the ECU.

 

.

That's what is said earlier but got nowt but a knock knock joke

Guys, I think he's referring the knock as detonation in the upper revs because of poor tuning of the ECU.

 

Oil in the intercooler pipes is fairly normal when the stock PCV vents to the intake side. Puff of blue smoke on start up is usually because of the valve stem seals. If it happens also on boosting, check the intake manifold side PCV check valve that comes from the valve covers that it isn't jammed open.

Yes that's what I mean.

The car was mapped in Japan, for japanese fuel, and in a different climate.

The car usually will die on me 2-3 times before it actually starts, and when it warms up it idles at aroud 500-600rpm on average.

It runs great just a bit sloppy due to the bad tune.

The problem seems to be a bad tune I'm not really worried about any other problems. Talked with a few shops about it already.

One way or another I need to get my ECU map sorted/get a new one, and I was planning on getting a new boost controller.

I'd rather put that money towards single.

 

Don't do it.

By 'budget' It was more so to do with if I'd be able to keep my 550 injectors and intercooler.

I will still get a quality turbo and parts, so there is nothing really bad about that

thanks for the info,

I might go aim for 450whp range now and stay on 550cc

then eventually swap them out for 650cc and up the boost to 500whp. Or just do it right away.

I need to check my clutch also, all I know is its aftermarket w/ LWFW, but I'll most likely be upgrading that too.