Titanium Wheel Nuts

Was thinking about making a couple sets, might throw a set on eBay. Only sets I've seen are horrid standard length ones. Want a set of extended.

Would it even be worth the hassle? Anyone have any.

What's the value of having extened wheel nuts?

I would be interested in standard length hollow nuts at a good price.

Anything to free up a few more Unsprung Grams...

What's the value of having extened wheel nuts?

I think nuts look nicer if they are extended. Just looks a bit different.

I would be interested in standard length hollow nuts at a good price.

Anything to free up a few more Unsprung Grams...

What would you call a good price dude? I was only looking to make a one off set. Shame I can't make the hex diameter smaller but I spose that could cause issues with torque.

What would you call a good price dude? I was only looking to make a one off set. Shame I can't make the hex diameter smaller but I spose that could cause issues with torque.

Ideally less than £20 each which is what I can get them for at the moment (I Cant justify £400 for a set of nuts)

The nut should be weaker that the hub...thus alloy is better, unless you want to risk tearing the hub up.

I bought these....they weigh naff all each. There are Titanium look versions too.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12X1-5-JDM-WHEEL-LUG-NUTS-LOCK-SET-20-pcs-M12xP1-5-OPEN-END-R40-Style-Black-/261162819986?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item3cce846192

The nut should be weaker that the hub...thus alloy is better, unless you want to risk tearing the hub up.

 

I bought these....they weigh naff all each. There are Titanium look versions too.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12X1-5-JDM-WHEEL-LUG-NUTS-LOCK-SET-20-pcs-M12xP1-5-OPEN-END-R40-Style-Black-/261162819986?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item3cce846192

Really? I have never heard of that, although that’s not to say that you are wrong (It’s just that I have never heard it) but it begs to ask this question, surely if the wheel nuts need to be weaker than the hub/studs then why don’t manufactures fit alloy nuts as standard then? I suppose it would be down to cost, but then if it is, it can’t be a major enough issue to worry about?

The thing is I really REALLY do not trust Alloy wheel nuts; I had a bad experience with them before and will never use them again.

They will either stay Steel or be replaced with Titanium and I will only go Titanium if it’s worth the outlay at which case it’s not at the moment. The only reason I want to use Titanium nuts is to reduce unsprung weight.

The only risk of tearing the hub up that I can see befalling me would be if I were to hit a large pot hole (I have never come across one on a track) or in the worst case coming off the track and into a barrier to which I would probably have more than just the hub to replace surely then in that case using Alloy, Steel or Titanium nuts would make no difference at all (as lots of things will be bent)

Ideally less than £20 each which is what I can get them for at the moment (I Cant justify £400 for a set of nuts)

Well I'm sourcing material now. Due to the extra material around the cone end I'm looking at bar and not hex.

If you give me some idea what you think you would think is a suitable price for a set I can look into doing two sets, and price the material as doing two will definitely help material costs.

Might not make any difference if suppliers have the correct size material.

I'll price for two sets and see if we can share material costs. It's my own time spent machining them, and considering I don't have a lathe with active tooling I'll be machining the hex manually. Definitely an awesome product to make, but doubt I'll want to do it again after 40 nuts anyway.

A good price will be about £280 for a set.

It may be worth noting they will need some sort of coating to stop galling between the nuts and the studs...

The nut should be weaker that the hub...thus alloy is better, unless you want to risk tearing the hub up.

 

I bought these....they weigh naff all each. There are Titanium look versions too.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12X1-5-JDM-WHEEL-LUG-NUTS-LOCK-SET-20-pcs-M12xP1-5-OPEN-END-R40-Style-Black-/261162819986?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item3cce846192

were these genuine kics wheels nuts, find it hard to believe they are at that price.

Can't remember what I paid Chris...it wasn't from them - it was just an example...I'd do my own research before buying

Sounds interesting, Noz.

I really REALLY do not trust Alloy wheel nuts; I had a bad experience with them before and will never use them again.

What was the bad experience you speak of, if you don't mind explaining? I currently run alloy nuts and would be interested in hearing about any potential pitfalls before hitting the track later in the year...

£280 is a good price!?

I hate machining titanium, such a ballache

And expensive too

Is my favourite material tho

The only real bitch with machining Titanium is tapping it

If the correct Aluminium alloy is used then there shouldn't be

any problem with them, over tightening is usually half the issue.

There are dozens of different grades of Aluminium alloys and

also a few different grades of Titanium so you need to choose

the correct one for whatever application you need.

Does anyone actually use a torque wrench for doing their nuts

up or even know the correct torque ?

What is the correct torque setting mate!?

75-80 ft lbs

75-80 ft lbs

Cheers mate...I use a torque wrench and have them all set at 70ft lbs. I'll notch them up a little.

I use my normal length ratchet and feel the torque

I've checked them and I'm within 2ft lbs

Generally if you undue them with a long bar and do them up with a short (normal length) bar

And never an air ratchet your ok

I generally check important stuff with a decent torque wrench and use good quality long reach sockets on Ali wheel nuts

Does anyone actually use a torque wrench for doing their nuts up or even know the correct torque?

Yes, always! My torque wrench is in metric, so I go for 110Nm (~81lb/ft). Part of the weekly checks.

A good price will be about £280 for a set.

It may be worth noting they will need some sort of coating to stop galling between the nuts and the studs...

The only process I can easily lay my hands on is silver or gold plating. Which you can't do with titanium as easily.

The only real bitch with machining Titanium is tapping it

I was planning on chasing it. Only thing I'm worried about is length of thread engagement, what's the recommended depth for number of threads? I think I've hit a road block, as my boring bar is only 19mm long.

It depends how much of the stud sticks out through the wheel, be worth measuring

this before you start.

You'll have to add on X mm's for how much is in the cone as well as how much

is actually above the wheel face

15 mm would give you 10 full threads with a 1.5 mm pitch so that

would be fine as far as thread engagement goes.

I've managed to get 19mm of thread, should do th trick.

I just tried something random on the end, but I think a small nut would save a lot more weight, I think I could save 40% of the weight by just having a standard style and remove any tip whatsoever. This was just an idea and to make sure I was confident on thread finish.

I tried the cone end as was trying out the program that I may use for stainless versions.

It's come out really well, so now to change the design for something smaller. Do people agree? I was thinking something like:

Still not sure what to do about coating them. I've heard mixed opinions about having soft steel studs and it not being an issue.

If your making them for Adrian Newey then yes i'd guess saving

another gram or two would matter