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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Need A New Rad. Help Choose?


Hassan
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Chris Wilson had an oem and aftermarket rad tested and the oem was one of the best set of tesults they had ever had. I went back to a stock one when my fluidyne blew. Works fine with bpu and single even with a big intercooler infront.

 

How long did your uprated :rolleyes: Fluidyne last ?

 

I best keep stum having recently discussed this very subject :)

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Whatever you decided to get check what rad cap it comes with as a few after market

ones seem to have higher pressure rad caps which you don't really want.

 

Not sure if the O/E Toyota cap fits these rads either

 

So high pressure rad caps are no good. Why? Ive got a trd 1.3bar cap.

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Chris Wilson had an oem and aftermarket rad tested and the oem was one of the best set of tesults they had ever had. I went back to a stock one when my fluidyne blew. Works fine with bpu and single even with a big intercooler infront.

 

Well if its been tested then oem is good enough for me.

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If you send me clear and detailed photos of the front and back of your current rad and how thick the actual core is, and if you are SURE it's the same as a MKIV Supra rad, I can do some good prices on new ones. If you buy one and it's subtly different I don't want to even know though :) There are several different Toyota MKIV Supra rads, I need decent photos, out of the car.

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My supplier still has none auto, but it's not a problem, you just don't use the cooler pipes, they can just sit there, capped off, or open, or use it as a very very good PAS cooler instead of the dreadful bit of bent pipe fitted originally. Functionally auto and manual rads are of course the same from a water cooling point of view.

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My supplier still has none auto, but it's not a problem, you just don't use the cooler pipes, they can just sit there, capped off, or open, or use it as a very very good PAS cooler instead of the dreadful bit of bent pipe fitted originally. Functionally auto and manual rads are of course the same from a water cooling point of view.

 

Just letting you know and yes there the same other wise :)

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If you send me clear and detailed photos of the front and back of your current rad and how thick the actual core is, and if you are SURE it's the same as a MKIV Supra rad, I can do some good prices on new ones. If you buy one and it's subtly different I don't want to even know though :) There are several different Toyota MKIV Supra rads, I need decent photos, out of the car.

 

Ok i send you some photos later today. Plus my oem rad is olny a few months old. I just managed to put a pin size hole in one of the fins and it started leaking. Im soo gutted.

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Abit of topic but would 3 10row mocal oil coolers be over kill for autobox? Im going to be getting a high stall torque converter and maybe go single. Or shall i just use 2? And is the oem oil cooler at the bottom of the rad enough for the power steering cooling?

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Will get the info on the rads tomorrow. High stall converters work by a lot of slippage, so make a lot of heat in normal use, and use a LOT of fuel. If you intend using it on the road you'll be sick of it inside 5,000 miles. You need a temp gauge on the box sump pan and monitor the fluid temp. You can always blank off some of the core if the cooler proves too big. As the auto box cooler in the bottom tank of the rad copes with a stock auto box it will laugh at coping with the PAS. But being a fluid to coolant water intercooler it will keep the PAS fluid hot enough to stay healthy as it's minimum temp is tied closely to the engine coolant temp. I would run a separate cooler on a high stall converter auto box and not overload the water cooling system.

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Will get the info on the rads tomorrow. High stall converters work by a lot of slippage, so make a lot of heat in normal use, and use a LOT of fuel. If you intend using it on the road you'll be sick of it inside 5,000 miles. You need a temp gauge on the box sump pan and monitor the fluid temp. You can always blank off some of the core if the cooler proves too big. As the auto box cooler in the bottom tank of the rad copes with a stock auto box it will laugh at coping with the PAS. But being a fluid to coolant water intercooler it will keep the PAS fluid hot enough to stay healthy as it's minimum temp is tied closely to the engine coolant temp. I would run a separate cooler on a high stall converter auto box and not overload the water cooling system.

 

I have a high stall and run 2 big coolers on my transmission but have no temp sensor in it. Can I just mount an ordinary syvecs oil temp sensor in the side of the transmission sump somewhere and all will be fine then?

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