NA-T oil return idea

Been looking into doing na-t conversion on car have started saving for the parts,but when car was on ramp i saw how much hasstle it was trying to remove oil pan so could drill oil return for turbo. Dont fancy removing engine or drilling with engine in place.

So speaking to a engineer at work have come up with idea of running the turbo oil return to a 9row oil cooler then from the oil cooler into drilled hole in the oil sump that way the oil is cooled after the turbo plus saves me all the hasstle of oil pan removing.

Thought i would post this idea up just to get peoples opinion please

What you guys reckon?

just make sure it doesent back upinto the turbo

The cooler may cause a restriction in the oil flow back, dont forget oil is gravity fed back to the sump not pumped in any way, also if you`ve still got to drill the sump for the cooler return doesn`t that defeat the object on your idea? have a rethink me think:)

tbh mate if your not prepared to drop the subframe or lift the engine , id consider weather you should be doing it

The cooler may cause a restriction in the oil flow back, dont forget oil is gravity fed back to the sump not pumped in any way, also if you`ve still got to drill the sump for the cooler return doesn`t that defeat the object on your idea? have a rethink me think:)

Yea i know oil is gravity fed but when the car is running the oil system will be under pressure so should move the oil fast enough and its a 5minute job removing the sump with engine fitted,its a huge job trying to get oil pan off as have to either pull engine out or remove everything from under engine and thats a big job aswell

tbh mate if your not prepared to drop the subframe or lift the engine , id consider weather you should be doing it

Def want to it but i have a gravel driveway and trying to use engine hoist on gravel not fun or safe plus jacking the up high enough on gravel isnt safe aswell

you have to drp the back of the frame to get the sump off too

Yea i know oil is gravity fed but when the car is running the oil system will be under pressure so should move the oil fast enough and its a 5minute job removing the sump with engine fitted,its a huge job trying to get oil pan off as have to either pull engine out or remove everything from under engine and thats a big job aswell

No, the pressure drop across the turbo is huge. Oil comes out frothy at pretty musg atmospheric pressure. It won't flow through a cooler. You need as wide a diameter pipe as possible with a constant downhill run to drain a turbo.

Oil needs to flow back to the sump above your normal oil level ie higher than the lower sump, if oil from the turbo gets backed up its bye bye turbo bearing.

Also what digsy said.

I thought that if the cooler was gravity fed and the the return gravity fed to sump would flow enough oil. also if their is better way of removing oil pan am willing to try that as is it possible to just remove front roll bar then undo mounts and lift engine slighty to remove oil pan? also if did want oil cooler on engine where would be best place to fed it from and too as do like idea of oil cooler as am putting intercooler in front of rad and with the turbo increasing oil temp want oil cooler somewhere

I would stick to whats tried and tested. It's alot of work plumping in a system that's very similar and un-proven and could run you into trouble.

You don't want any resistriction on that oil return whatsoever.

I ran my turbo feed from the oil filter and have a directional plate on there as well for an oil cooler so both are fed at the same time.

The turbo itself won't put much extra heat into the oil as the flow through it is so small, so its pointless cooling the oil going from / to the turbo. The extra heat to oil will come from the engine's increased power output. The best place for a cooler take off / return is a sandwich plate before the oil filter, where the stock TT one is situated, so it cools the oil in the way to the whole engine.

NOT THE RECOMMENDED WAY OF DOING IT BUT:

If your not willing to drop the subframe, Buy one of these of eBay £5.00

Use plenty of white grease and take it slow( and keep cleaning the cutter and re-greasing) with a hole cutter in your drill and CLEAN ALL SHAVINGS out of the hole in the sump!

I done it this way 2 years ago and ran the car for around 10-15mins then done a oil change just for extra measure. good luck

If did that idea what size drill bit do i need as i would of thought would of needed about 10mm at least for the oil return?

The oil cooler thing is just an idea just wanted advice really as would prefer to drop frame and remove oil pan to make sure drill hole perfect and get no metal in engine but on gravel driveway dont like idea of being under car that long with her on jack incase something moved as sure them bolts will be very tight as been on 17years

I used a 16mm hole cutter for my sump

And can you not move the car onto the road or hard surface to do the sump? I also have a gravel drive way but I just pull the car onto the road if I need to jack her up.

im considering doing it the same way FOSTA did his and using something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170658127366?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

to catch any remaining shavings?

As everyone has said, big direct pipe to above oil level in sump, any restriction can cause oil seal blow-by and damage

I drilled mine in situe with a 90 degree drill

im considering doing it the same way FOSTA did his and using something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170658127366?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

to catch any remaining shavings?

That seems like very good idea

As everyone has said, big direct pipe to above oil level in sump, any restriction can cause oil seal blow-by and damage

I drilled mine in situe with a 90 degree drill

And guess that could be the way to do it then

I used a 16mm hole cutter for my sump

And can you not move the car onto the road or hard surface to do the sump? I also have a gravel drive way but I just pull the car onto the road if I need to jack her up.

Did you just use 16mm drill bit of did you smaller drill bit with hole cutter on back, and i havent got option of pushing car onto road really where i live

Removing the front subframe doesn't take that long. I got mine off in under an hour. It's getting it back on again that takes the time

Removing the front subframe doesn't take that long. I got mine off in under an hour. It's getting it back on again that takes the time

Deep joy i look forward to that if do decide to remove sub frame

Did you just use 16mm drill bit of did you smaller drill bit with hole cutter on back, and i havent got option of pushing car onto road really where i live

Just the hole cutter.

This is what it looks like:

And you need a drill bit for it so when them 2 are together it looks like this :

I found the easiest way was to get it on a ramp, chuck some axle stands underneath (bigguns) and lower the ramp.

Large trolley jack with a length of wood on it, up to the sub frame, undo all the bolts, then lower the frame on the jack.

Then the reverse to go back on. Getting it all lined up is what took the time for me, as I did it myself.

I put one side in loosely, so the frame was fixed one side, but loose enough to have some play, then lined up the other side.

Tighten all round, job done.

guys ive striped an engine that was drilled in place and thee was more alloy swarf in the oil pickupmesh than id like to see again