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Tomei Camshafts for Supra


Samurai 20V
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Hi Guys..

 

Came across a good deal for Tomei Camshafts for the 2JZ..

 

Based on some internet reading, Tomei seem to have a very good rep..

 

Has anybody any experience with them?

 

My plan is to fit them on my BPU with OEM ECU, in prep for single turbo later..

 

The lift on them is 9.5mm as opposed to the HKS 9.0mm (both 264 duration).

 

Is it adviseable to run with the stock ECU?

 

I hope they are drop in, no springs etc required.. I expect shimming though.

 

Any help is appreciated..

 

Thanks.

 

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e087_cam_1j_2j.html#early2j

Edited by Samurai 20V (see edit history)
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On a BPU Supra you'll lose some low down response but gain a little mid/high rpms once the 2nd turbo comes online. You'll get more out of the swap if you also have remapped ECU.

 

Thanks Nic.

 

According to Supraforums, they can be fitted w/o springs, just shimming..

 

Getting them for 62000yen, reckon its a good deal..

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Superbly made, like all the Tomei stuff I have seen and used. I have them in my RB26 engine and before fitting them I stuck `em on the Cam Doctor machine, and they were cock on. I would say either HKS or Tomei are both excellent cams. Once you start playing with cams you will never get the best from them without a mappable ECU though.

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Superbly made, like all the Tomei stuff I have seen and used. I have them in my RB26 engine and before fitting them I stuck `em on the Cam Doctor machine, and they were cock on. I would say either HKS or Tomei are both excellent cams. Once you start playing with cams you will never get the best from them without a mappable ECU though.

 

Thank Chris.. I will go for it I think, they much better priced than the HKS..

 

Will get it mapped at a later stage..

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These look like work with the VVTI engine.

I am right

 

How well would these do with BPU and after market ecu.

 

Babelfish got me there I think..... :)

 

 

The 143075 kit is for the VVTi engine, yes. They are quite tame in terms of lift and duration, but that may be because the stock cam actuator doesn't like the impulses from slow revving cams with aggressive profiles. Hence why VVTi engines often rattle at idle with certain of the American cams fitted.

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a standard engine would need more than a longer duration / high lift cam to improve the performance enough to reach BPU levels i reckon.

 

it says "standard" .

 

from the website

"These long-awaited camshafts have finally passed the extensive

pain staking test phases. The characteristics of the 2JZ-GTE Late

model VVTi system have been completely analyzed and

performance gains in all areas have been achieved. It excels in

lower speeds, all the way up to high RPM, with success in

extracting the full potential of the 2JZ engine."

 

I dont know :sly:

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well looks like all BPU shopping list's need to be scarpped and just some decent cams are needed in that case :)

 

If the car is making that without the BPU bits, what would it make with BPU bits ?

 

:eyebrows:

 

can some of the 2jz tuners help us out!

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All I can tell you about manufacturer's dyno graphs is they are usually bull**** and to be taken with a pinch of salt. If they can be massaged, fiddled with or made flattering, they will be :)

 

but they bhp figures are sooo gooodd!! :D

 

has anyone used cams similar to these?

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Cams can, and will move the torque curve around, I don't care what anyone says, more duration will move the torque curve peak higher up the rev band. Whether that suits the gearing, the weight of the car, and how you want the engine to "feel" is a different matter. Toyota will have spent huge resources and money optimising the stock cams to the gearing and the desired torque curve, as well as emission levels. Whilst it's easy to make the engine breath better at the top end, you can very easily kill the bottom end, and if you have an auto box the car will be awful to drive as the box is then still mapped for the stock curve. A manual allows YOU to take some control and is a much better choice for a "cammed" engine. You won't go wrong with either HKS or Tomei cams, they will both do what is expected of their profiles, reliably. Anything bar the very mildest of cam swaps is a total waste of time without a mappable ecu.

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Cams can, and will move the torque curve around, I don't care what anyone says, more duration will move the torque curve peak higher up the rev band. Whether that suits the gearing, the weight of the car, and how you want the engine to "feel" is a different matter. Toyota will have spent huge resources and money optimising the stock cams to the gearing and the desired torque curve, as well as emission levels. Whilst it's easy to make the engine breath better at the top end, you can very easily kill the bottom end, and if you have an auto box the car will be awful to drive as the box is then still mapped for the stock curve. A manual allows YOU to take some control and is a much better choice for a "cammed" engine. You won't go wrong with either HKS or Tomei cams, they will both do what is expected of their profiles, reliably. Anything bar the very mildest of cam swaps is a total waste of time without a mappable ecu.

 

 

are you saying dont install cam's if you have an auto ? , I thought putting cams in gave more power through out the rev range!

 

I have an auto :blink:

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No, I am only saying that the auto box is "mapped" just like an engine, and the map you have is based around the engine having a given power and torque curve. If you change the cams the shape of this graph changes, but the map in the gearbox controller doesn't. You can get away with mild cams that do not impact the shape of the stock torque curve very much. Wilder cams will make the car sluggish and the gearbox won't behave in an optimal manner in regard to when it changes gear. Also the lack of low end torque with more aggressive cams will mean it will be sluggish from a standing start. Cam choice is complex, some would say a black art (I wouldn't, some would...).

 

 

Short answer, only fit cams with slightly more duration and lift than standard if you want to run the stock auto box.

 

 

Cams most definitely DO NOT give more power throughout the rev range. Like nearly everything in physics, and in life, it's a compromise. You gain somewhere, but at the same time you also lose somewhere. You cam make a nicely driving, sensibly petrol thirsty, happy engine into a total dog with injudicious cam choices. I would e-mail Tomei and ask what they think about running these cams with a stock auto box. My take? They should be reasonably OK, but the car will not have sizzling low end grunt, so it'll suffer round town and away from the lights, but wake up over 4000 RPM. Would I use them on my Supra automatic? I have a get out of jail card. I wouldn't much modify a Supra automatic's engine :)

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No, I am only saying that the auto box is "mapped" just like an engine, and the map you have is based around the engine having a given power and torque curve. If you change the cams the shape of this graph changes, but the map in the gearbox controller doesn't. You can get away with mild cams that do not impact the shape of the stock torque curve very much. Wilder cams will make the car sluggish and the gearbox won't behave in an optimal manner in regard to when it changes gear. Also the lack of low end torque with more aggressive cams will mean it will be sluggish from a standing start. Cam choice is complex, some would say a black art (I wouldn't, some would...).

 

 

Short answer, only fit cams with slightly more duration and lift than standard if you want to run the stock auto box.

 

 

Cams most definitely DO NOT give more power throughout the rev range. Like nearly everything in physics, and in life, it's a compromise. You gain somewhere, but at the same time you also lose somewhere. You cam make a nicely driving, sensibly petrol thirsty, happy engine into a total dog with injudicious cam choices. I would e-mail Tomei and ask what they think about running these cams with a stock auto box. My take? They should be reasonably OK, but the car will not have sizzling low end grunt, so it'll suffer round town and away from the lights, but wake up over 4000 RPM. Would I use them on my Supra automatic? I have a get out of jail card. I wouldn't much modify a Supra automatic's engine :)

 

Thanks a bunch for your explanation.

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  • 2 years later...
Did anybody get the Tomei Poncams in the end , looking at getting them for a BPU Manual stock ECU

 

Just a word of warning, if you order the cams from overseas make sure they are extremely well packaged as they are very fragile and can snap very easily. When I was trading I had a couple break in transit, after that I made sure they were always wrapped with multiple layers of bubble wrap.

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Just a word of warning, if you order the cams from overseas make sure they are extremely well packaged as they are very fragile and can snap very easily. When I was trading I had a couple break in transit, after that I made sure they were always wrapped with multiple layers of bubble wrap.

 

Thanks! Think I will be going with RHDJapan, should be ok

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

I had tomei 264 cams on my last supra which was 700bhp single turbo the driveabilty in the low rev range was very poor, and I was running a syvecs ecu mapped by ryan.

 

Really , ah crap , not good

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  • 1 year later...

Have my car back 2 days now, Tomei Poncams BPU Stock ECU , the Cams are fantastic , head can really breath ; BPU is quick but the burt of acceleration with the cams is nearly on par running 0.8 bar and 1.2 bar , they really do let her pull strong

 

Low rev range , to be honest I do not notice a difference over OEM cams but she just pulls alot stronger from 3200-3500 rpm ; you really notice the 4500+ , she does not run out of steam up the rev line like with OEM cams , their marketing statement is accurate "Excellent pick up from lower rpm, and even greater results at maximum rpm"

 

Only caveat I will say, the OEM ECU on cold start up, is a pita on Idle till she warms up, you will end up being the Cold start ECU Strategy with your right foot till she gets temps up

 

I had to adjust the Idle dampener , coming to a stop , she tries to cut out , hunts between 0 rpm and 1K

 

I need to look into this , might get a piggy back ; what would put me off a standalone ECU is the lack of functionality to run sequential setup

Edited by Jellybean (see edit history)
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