Going 600bhp using the 2jz-GE.

I'm wanting to reach my goal of 600+bhp NA-T.

So I'm after advice on what mods will need to be done to the GE engine to make it safe and capable of reaching 600+bhp.

I know I need to lower the compression so hodge has kindly give me his TT pistons, but will I need to also fit the thicker TT headgasket? Just as some say do and others say don't?

So I would like advice on building the block and head cabable of 600+bhp.

Also could we please keep this on topic, I've heard the whole ( why don't you just buy a 2jz-GTE and be done with it!) a million times! Lol

Thanks in advance guys and gals

copy cat

copy cat

Too right! If only I knew exactly how your engine was built, I would copy it to every single specification! Lol

Too right! If only I knew exactly how your engine was built, I would copy it to every single specification! Lol

aha aslong as yours doesnt make more power mines got a thicker head gasket though bud

What oil pump you planning on using bud?

What oil pump you planning on using bud?

I was thinking of just replacing the NA oem one with a brand new NA pump?

I'm on the similar stage now.

Go with TT pistons and 1.3mm head gasket and you will hit stock TT CR which is 8.5:1.

Honed cylinders will help also. (a bit more room for pistons while on woot )

I'll be fitting TT oil pump for higher oil presure.

Are you going to run oil squirters?

Alot of people argue you need the TT pump with the demand of the turbo needing more oil pressure but I dont think it makes a difference to be honest on anything under 1000bhp.

I'm on the similar stage now.

 

Go with TT pistons and 1.3mm head gasket and you will hit stock TT CR which is 8.5:1.

 

Honed cylinders will help also. (a bit more room for pistons while on woot )

 

I'll be fitting TT oil pump for higher oil presure.

 

Are you going to run oil squirters?

No It wasn't somthing that crossed my mind, would I need to run oil squirters?

Also I take it I need to raise the oil pressure then? If so then I can stick a TT oil pump on if it's needed?

Thanks for the heads up with the compression, is 1.3mm stock for a TT?

Cheers

I run a thread on here not too long ago about squirters and it was said that they arent needed till (800ish i believe)

edit: I was wrong Linky to thread

Alot of people argue you need the TT pump with the demand of the turbo needing more oil pressure but I dont think it makes a difference to be honest on anything under 1000bhp.

Yeah well I'm at nearly 400bhp now NA-T and using the oem pump and all has been fine, but I'm replacing the stock one anyways so if it's worth just sticking a new TT one on while I'm there then I can do that.

Cheers

You dont need to run squirters unless going for anything higher as NA-T run with no issues at this power level. If you did want to run the TT oil pump for more pressure you can also risk blowing out your front main seal from too much pressure but from what I can remember phr do a modded oil pump for this. Tbh its easier just staying with the NA pump I reckon.

You dont need to run squirters unless going for anything higher as NA-T run with no issues at this power level. If you did want to run the TT oil pump for more pressure you can also risk blowing out your front main seal from too much pressure but from what I can remember phr do a modded oil pump for this. Tbh its easier just staying with the NA pump I reckon.

Yeah I was thinking that, I've just read that if you fit squirters that will cause a drop in pressure so then I would need a TT pump to raise the pressure back up.

I think I'll stick to the NA pump

In USA there is a lot of NA engines running high powers - 7/8xx with no oil squirters (don't forget they only can do 1/4mile runs).

All depends what you are after. For motorway blasts I think oil squirters will be an advantage but not essential.

k0r3an on SF got 704whp using just a thicker HG, and TTC Cams as far as engine mods are concerned

k0r3an on SF got 704whp using just a thicker HG, and TTC Cams as far as engine mods are concerned

 

That's fantastic results! Who sells them cams for the NA, or any performance cams for the NA?

Cheers

k0r3an on SF got 704whp using just a thicker HG, and TTC Cams as far as engine mods are concerned

 

Thats impressive!! might as well sell the TT and get an NA-T! get a turbo kit with the extra cash

No one sells cams for the NA. TTC hard weld and re-grind NA cams for long duration, high lift (both to specification if required) so the stock cams can keep the dizzy gear.

If you go standalone, swap the dizzy for coils and you can run your own cams.

The lower compression you drop, the more power your need for the same BHP. Which is why NA-T engine's do so well on low psi. An 8.5:1 engine wouldn't do as well with the same psi your running.

I'm 99% sure with a 1.3mm HG and TT pistons the GE head and block will lower compression FURTHER than 8.5:1, I thought it was 8:1 but your need to check that.

I'm actually going for 1.3HG and TT pistons (all sat in my magic shed ) as I want 600hp but am adding the smallest shot of nitrous on top after, as I want to learn about it but don't want to go crazy.

When deciding on your compression ratio don't forget to consider the results from high compression GTE engines. The requirement to lower will be in the same volume band as when they increase their ratio. LeeP has a 9.2:1 (or something similiar I thought?).

The head doesn't `need` to be ported and polished, but you will always hit better figures with it. Your still get bottle neck's at the valves though, so it's big ££££ for a tiny increase, depends how nuts you want to spend! And the GE head is rare, so will cost bit over the usual GTE head I expect (had some quotes in the past, whiffin is probably your best bet having done GTEheads which aren't a huge world apart).

Power is defined by flow, so increase your flow increase your power OR increase your pressure which in turn increases the flow in the same area. A small flowing head will require more pressure to flow as well as a ported head. I wouldn't of thought a 9.#:1 NA would require headwork for 600. Jekyl wasn't that far away from it remmber and he had stock over head intake wasn't flowing massive intake setup.

Use a stock oil pump, but definitely get new if the engine is out and make sure you get a decent oil cooler (Im not sure if you have one). People in the US run 700hp on the dizzy without cams, this isn't a 100% requirement.

Do some research on the compression ratio and head volume, I done it ages ago but there's alot of information online. You can find calculators which allows you to adjust the gasket thickness and dish on the pistons, all the info for the parts your using is online for sure.

No one sells cams for the NA. TTC hard weld and re-grind NA cams for long duration, high lift (both to specification if required) so the stock cams can keep the dizzy gear.

 

If you go standalone, swap the dizzy for coils and you can run your own cams.

 

The lower compression you drop, the more power your need for the same BHP. Which is why NA-T engine's do so well on low psi. An 8.5:1 engine wouldn't do as well with the same psi your running.

 

I'm 99% sure with a 1.3mm HG and TT pistons the GE head and block will lower compression FURTHER than 8.5:1, I thought it was 8:1 but your need to check that.

 

I'm actually going for 1.3HG and TT pistons (all sat in my magic shed ) as I want 600hp but am adding the smallest shot of nitrous on top after, as I want to learn about it but don't want to go crazy.

 

When deciding on your compression ratio don't forget to consider the results from high compression GTE engines. The requirement to lower will be in the same volume band as when they increase their ratio. LeeP has a 9.2:1 (or something similiar I thought?).

 

The head doesn't `need` to be ported and polished, but you will always hit better figures with it. Your still get bottle neck's at the valves though, so it's big ££££ for a tiny increase, depends how nuts you want to spend! And the GE head is rare, so will cost bit over the usual GTE head I expect (had some quotes in the past, whiffin is probably your best bet having done GTEheads which aren't a huge world apart).

 

Power is defined by flow, so increase your flow increase your power OR increase your pressure which in turn increases the flow in the same area. A small flowing head will require more pressure to flow as well as a ported head. I wouldn't of thought a 9.#:1 NA would require headwork for 600. Jekyl wasn't that far away from it remmber and he had stock over head intake wasn't flowing massive intake setup.

 

Use a stock oil pump, but definitely get new if the engine is out and make sure you get a decent oil cooler (Im not sure if you have one). People in the US run 700hp on the dizzy without cams, this isn't a 100% requirement.

 

Do some research on the compression ratio and head volume, I done it ages ago but there's alot of information online. You can find calculators which allows you to adjust the gasket thickness and dish on the pistons, all the info for the parts your using is online for sure.

Newman Cams could do you a set of NA cams.

BC do 2JZGE cams

I have the compression calculator so if any one would like to have it just send me your email.

Newman Cams could do you a set of NA cams.

New billets usually cost a bomb, I had some quotes ages ago for new ones from kent cams. Any chance you could do a group buy with some contacts

BC do 2JZGE cams

For the IS300, vvti which doesnt use a dizzy

Seems like alot to think about then, so if I was to just fit the TT pistons but fit a oem NA headgasket.

Could that get me to 600bhp? Or would I need to lower the compression alittle further and run more boost?

Thanks

I'm not at home atm where I have this calculator but as far as I remember, 2.1mm head gasket with stock GE pistons will give you CR very close to 8.5:1.

1.3mm head gasket and stock GE pistons will give you 9.1:1

After quick calculation with TT pistons and stock GE 0.3mm gasket you will have CR = 9.3:1?

9.2:1 is pistons I thought. 9.1:1 is TT HG.

the TT uses a thicker HG, so don't be afraid to use one to lower compression. it's been done SO many times before. TT pistons is the prefered way due to reducing squish and causing spots of poor flow increasing chances of knock, but lets face it, TT engine's use a 1.6mm HG, if it was that much of an issue they wouldn't be using that diameter.