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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

20BHP on ebay for NA's


Castle
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I had one on my Escort.

 

It is a simply a resistor that you put on Air flow meter. So u unplug the wire leading to it, put the correct resistor on it and put tape over it. so the wire is no longer plugged in getting the correct reading.

 

It basically gives a fake temperature reading of the air, making it think more air is present being colder etc..... making the ECU think more fuel is required. On my escort it gave a bit more poke, not sure if id wana do it too a supra. and it definatly aint 20BHP i didnt gain that much bout 5-7 tops

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Is it 'Rays The Roof' that has one of these on his N/A?

 

As Tony says, anything that enriches the Air/Fuel ratio would result in less power not more. Maybe these things make the A/F leaner. Either way they're bargepole-tastic in my book

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Originally posted by Ian R

It is defo Rays the Roof that has one and his NA dynoed at 280BHP with it on.

 

Ah yeah but is that all he has on there or are there other MODs on there that require more fuel in the first place. If you just bung extra fuel into an unmodified N/A it will do cack all but chuck unburnt fuel out the back and damage your cats.

 

How do I know this? I have a nitrous kit fitted to mine. If you leave the bottle switched off and arm the system it just bungs extra fuel in. With no nitrous to burn with this fuel it does jack sh*t, in fact I think it has a slightly adverse effect but nothing noticeable. Unburnt fuel will over time knacker out your cats. If however you have de-catted, sports exhaust, port an flowed with an induction kit, specced up cams and pulleys an that sort of stuff then yeah you may need a tad more fuel, I guess that this would be a very cheap way of adding that fuel. To be honest though you would be better off investing in a proper re-map. My experience so far of any modification to improve the N/A's power does so at the expense of the overall useable power range.

 

ie any extra power you squeeze out does so at the the top of the rev range, and you push the revs that the power starts to come in further and further up the range the more you tune it. Thats OK if you intend on driving everywhere at max revs all the time, but not all that clever if you want to drive it normally.

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Guest Rays the roof

Castle - I have a stock car apart from exhaust (cats still in) and resistor. It tells the ecu that cold air is going into the engine, hence pusing more fuel in. Loose about 2 mpg but improved performance is really noticeable. Like diffrence between 95 and 98 RON petrol.

 

Regarding 258 BHP at flywheel, calculation at wheels is wrong!

 

Ask any of the TT boys who come on Midlands meet. I can give them a good run up to 110mph, at which point the TT performance far out weighs mine.

 

Was hoping to confirm performance improvement at Pod yesterday, but didn't get to run coz of tossers who were organising it.

 

Dangerous - guess each car is different, but I would go for £2.50 resistor and see for yourself.

 

I'm not a tecci so not disputing theory with anyone on F:A ratios but it DOES work!!

 

:thumbs:

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Good to meet ya yesterday Ray, im going to have to get a db reading on my HKS Hipower Silent decatted jobby as that is a bit of a granny killer.

Oh and DBrain, the ECU mapping you mention is that also to the detriment of top or bottom end or were you just referring to tweaks here and there such as the resistor?

Or is it simpler just to get nos?:devil:

 

Matt

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Guest Rays the roof
Originally posted by whitesupraboy2

Ray, can you take a pic of the resistor. so i can see the colour bands on it, so ican get the correct one and give it a try, ill see if there is any gain.

 

Also where bouts does it go on the NA, another pic be great :D

 

Post a couple of pics tomorrow mate!

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  • 3 months later...
Got any pics yet, got bored on ebay so bought one for a couple quid just need to know where to stick it now :rolleyes:

 

The bin? :D

 

I'm not immediately sure what the best AFr is for power loading on an NA engine, but it follows the same rule - the closer you get to this AFr the more power you get. But if you go any leaner than that AFr you get pinking, knock, det, bad running, engine damage etc etc. So manufacturers build in a safety net by running the AFrs richer than the best power amount.

 

This ghastly modification will make the car run even richer. To a point, this doesn't lose you power, only when you start getting daft AFrs like 10:1 will it start fading badly. However, edging the fuelling richer than stock is emphatically NOT going to give you more power. As CW has mentioned before, you'd not feel a 5bhp difference in a 120bhp engined car. Atmospheric conditions (air pressure, ambient temperature, humidity) can cause greater fluctuations in engine power than 5bhp on a 120bhp engine, so 6-7bhp on a 230bhp engine is even less detectable and can be nailed down to environmental conditions anyway. And apparently dyno's have a margin for error that's over this figure anyway.

 

But, for £3, and it's your money, install away. You could save yourself wiring hassles and put it in the glove box, and you'll still get the +7bhp placebo effect :)

 

-Ian

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