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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

The V8 thread (1UZ-FE)


LOGIE
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Im hoping anyone with experiences doing a V8 conversion will ad any general info to this thread, its an option ive been looking into for a long time but never had the bottle as i always thought a 2JZ-GTE would be a lot easier. Ive pm'd a few members that have done this and it sounds do-able apart from making/customising a wiring loom (this is where it would go wrong for me as my knowledge on electrics and ECU's is non existent). Am i right in thinking it would be cheaper doing a V8 conversion as opposed to 2JZ-GTE? (I say CHEAPER not cheap). Id be keeping my car an Auto and i have a TT autobox,prop and LSD sitting in my garage. Also the sump issue on the 1UZ engine am i right in thinking that on pre 93 soarers the sump was located to the rear which is ideal? Again any info that im likely to overlook or obstacles that are likely to take me by surprise in doing this please ad. Im not commited to doing this yet just looking at my options and trying to work out a budget?

 

Thanks

Edited by LOGIE (see edit history)
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Use the Lexus ECU and an A343/0E Hybrid transmission.

 

Hi David i wondered when you'd be along mate :) I was going to use a soarer engine, would that ECU be the same as the Lexus? If i lived nearer you id cross your palm with silver with help doing the hybrid transmition, however i still have your phone number so maybe giving you a call. I assume the TT autobox, prop and diff i have lying about are no good then?

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If you're going to be needing a Hybrid, here's an N/A box going for a fiver.

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200770981573&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:GB:1123#ht_500wt_1287

 

A Soarer V8 auto ECU would work and you would need a T.T. A343E trans, bell-housing, flex-plate, centre-plates, bolts, torque-converter, oil-lines?, dip-stick, cross-member, prop-shaft, donut and diff.

 

You would also need an N/A A340E trans to donate valve body, springs and things, loom and cable.

 

V8 A340E cable is 25mm longer than Supra N/A and the T.T. J3 bell-housing is 40mm longer than N/A, Soarer and V8 J1 casting.

 

The cable you have might be long enough, :think: but if not, use a Soarer 1JZA80-GTE line pressure control cable which is 100mm longer than Supra N/A.

 

Call any-time, talking is easier than pressing buttons.

Edited by David P (see edit history)
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Is there much cost difference between the 1uz and GTE conversion?

 

GTE kicks the crap out of the 1uz imo, in a supra the 1uz is not very fast, TT engine with minimal mods would murder one.

You can pick up 1UZ engines for as little as £200 and there are quite a few out there where as GTE engines are harder to come by and get snapped up QUICK. :search:

Im not seeking BIG power in fact id be happy with about 300 which is achieveable with a 1UZ with a remap and improved breathing. It all jusr seemed cheaper as im DIYing

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If your going to be needing a Hybrid, here's an N/A box going for a fiver.

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200770981573&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:GB:1123#ht_500wt_1287

 

A Soarer V8 ECU will work and you will need a TT trans, bell-housing, flex-plate, centre-plates, bolts, torque-converter, oil-lines?, dip-stick, cross-member, prop-shaft and donut.

 

Call any-time, it's easier than pressing buttons.

 

Thanks David, I have an NA auto on the car and i have all the above except... centre plates and a flex plate???(unsure what this is) and the bolts (could come off the NA box).

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The flex-plate (auto flywheel) is different between N/A and TT, the centre-plates are the same but the spec of the T.T. bolts is different.

 

The stronger T.T. flex plate bolts are identifiable by a no. 11 on the bolt head.

 

Ah in that case i have a flex-plate but i need bolts and centre plates. thanks again David

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whats the reason behind wanting to use the tt auto box...if your doing it all on a budget and diy,i m just wondering why you just dont use the soarer engine and gearbox/ecu,as thats just a bolt in,even the soarer y pipe,the supra exhaust needs to be shortened by 1" by the rear wheels on the bend and then a shortened prop...

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whats the reason behind wanting to use the tt auto box...if your doing it all on a budget and diy,i m just wondering why you just dont use the soarer engine and gearbox/ecu,as thats just a bolt in,even the soarer y pipe,the supra exhaust needs to be shortened by 1" by the rear wheels on the bend and then a shortened prop...

 

I just thought the TT autobox would be stronger than the soarer one esp if it gets near 300bhp. What sort of power will the soarer autobox take? I have all the TT stuff as i was originally going to do NA-TT but i like the idea of doing the V8 as its different from the norm. Thanks for all the input so far guys this is why i started this thread.

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Ah in that case i have a flex-plate but i need bolts and centre plates. thanks again David

 

The N/A, T.T. and Soarer f.p. centre-plates are the same so you already have those, but you would need the stronger no. 11 flex-plate to crank bolts.

 

If you decide to go ahead with this give me a call, there are lots of ways to get it wrong, many of which I had to work out the hard way. :shrug:

Edited by David P (see edit history)
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A340E 300 ftlb

 

A343E 500 ftlb

 

A343/0E 600 ftlb

 

thats the toyota qouted ratings...but i think logie was saying he was not after power,so that woulld be more than adequate...for the price of a soarer box i would be inclined to use it and just change if you broke it(which i would dought)as they are only like 100.00 fpr another...my opinion is the 1uz v8 swops are over thought,its a 1uz v8 its nippy and you get the v8 sound,but you need to spend loads of money to get good power to equal any 2jz tt,its just a cheaper option to a bpu 2jz tt swop...buy an engine and box for 400.00 bolt it in and get it wired for 300.00,and then have some fun...this swop if you do yourself should be easily done for 1k...:)

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yeah ive been looking into this more and more lately, im still not commited to doing this as yet. But as both rxv8 and David P have pointed out it seems like a cheaper option to getting moderate power gains. Also the availability of these engines are far better than 2JZ-GTE ones should anything go wrong. Im more just keen to get my hands dirty and learn whilst at the same time improve my cars power. Its the electrics that worry me, although i suppose i could call out a mobile auto electrician.

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If you can do nuts & bolts, you can do joining wires.

 

it just worries me mate, ive never been very good at following wiring diagrams or the likes of..I dont want to knacker the ECU or worse. All this help and opinions are very much appreciated. I often see threads and Qs from other members that go unanswered.

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