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engine knocking should i rebuild or get a low milage 2nd engine


mellonman
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Okay guys im unsure where to begin on this my engine is starting to knock abit even when warm, now its been doing a knock from a cold start for a second for a while its done 160k miles and have not long done a single conversion.

so my question is ,

 

is it worth rebuilding a engine with high milage like this with stock parts ie crank, pistons upgraded to over size as bore is probably in bad condition as i know no5 was down on compression and the noise is a bottom end knock ,what sort of money is that sort of rebuild?

 

or do i just get another block 2nd hand long block with lower milage

 

or even just call it aday and wait for the engine to let go and brake the bits

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As you can do most of it yourself Gary I would say rebuild with Mahle Pistons, balanced bottom end and ARP bolts, I have a set of resized balanced con rods with ARP's sitting here, PW can do a good deal on bearings and pistons and a rebore is around £120.

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I'd spend more on sorting the ECU out - and move from the FI/C to something better. Or you'll be in this position again.

 

agreed, budget for a proper management while you sort your engine out.

 

i would forge the engine or semi forge it like dude said. there are many companies that can do it but stick to the specialised companies rather than a general mechanic i would say.

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As you can do most of it yourself Gary I would say rebuild with Mahle Pistons, balanced bottom end and ARP bolts, I have a set of resized balanced con rods with ARP's sitting here, PW can do a good deal on bearings and pistons and a rebore is around £120.

 

 

Thats cheaper then what i thought for the rebore happy days,

i know my way around a spanner but i doubt i would have all the tools and dont have the knowledge to do a rebuild john to be fair, i have never opened a engine before but i guess i best get my head in the books and start to read as i feel a winter rebuild is on the cards. also the crank is what is worrying me whats a crank cost?

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I'd spend more on sorting the ECU out - and move from the FI/C to something better. Or you'll be in this position again.

 

 

YES YES i hold my hands up high i know its utter rubish i was under the asometion they was good when i got it, i have my wedding in august so more money can be thrown at the car after that, mightn have to start a budget planner lol.

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Thats cheaper then what i thought for the rebore happy days,

i know my way around a spanner but i doubt i would have all the tools and dont have the knowledge to do a rebuild john to be fair, i have never opened a engine before but i guess i best get my head in the books and start to read as i feel a winter rebuild is on the cards. also the crank is what is worrying me whats a crank cost?

 

The crank may well not be damaged at the moment but you MUST get it checked, a regrind may only be needed on the big ends which again will prob only be £10 per journal, you may get away with just a polish.

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The stock bottom is pretty bullet proof up to 800bhp. Having said that constant abuse n bad maintainance can certainly take it's toll and during my rebuild they found a bent crank,cooked piston rings n bent valves,courtesy of it's previous owner...!(and it still got me from the Midlands to west Sussex!) So a built motor would certainly be a worth while investment. As for who? Id recommend SRD all day long.. The build quality,attention to detail and sheer craftsmanship of Lees work is unprecedented.. jamiep,Jamesy,Ricky,geo,mitch,me n many others I think would all agree!

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The stock bottom is pretty bullet proof up to 800bhp. Having said that constant abuse n bad maintainance can certainly take it's toll and during my rebuild they found a bent crank,cooked piston rings n bent valves,courtesy of it's previous owner...!(and it still got me from the Midlands to west Sussex!) So a built motor would certainly be a worth while investment. As for who? Id recommend SRD all day long.. The build quality,attention to detail and sheer craftsmanship of Lees work is unprecedented.. jamiep,Jamesy,Ricky,geo,mitch,me n many others I think would all agree!

 

As good as Lee's work is (and my car is thre too), I think you also have to note that the Syvecs controlling the timing/fuel and knock control is the main item in moving the game forward. Before that, it was 600bhp on a stock block, now it's 750bhp. This is where you need to be with any single now, IMO.

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okay just to get my head around it all what is needed for a bottom end rebuild please add what i miss

 

pistons

big end bearings

main bearings

thrut washers

arp bolts

water pump

oil pump

gasket kit (full or just cylinder?)

 

 

tools requiered

 

engine stand 450 kg

torque rench

decent socket set

 

 

is there any special tools needed?

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pistons

big end bearings

main bearings

thrut washers

arp bolts

water pump

oil pump

gasket kit (full or just cylinder?)

 

 

tools requiered

 

engine stand 450 kg

torque rench *

decent socket set *

diamond files *

plastigauge

ring compressor

work shop manual *

 

 

just keeping a list going and seeing what i need to keep a eye out for,

i also had another list to the engine this afternoon and its not as bad a i first thought, we will see what the dyno run shows at the charity do shows

Edited by mellonman (see edit history)
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So from a cost point of few, is brand new OEM pistons, rods, rings etc going to add up to much more that going with aftermarket rods and pistons (Mahle, Toda etc)?

 

If it is alot cheaper, then it may be feasible if you looking to stay around the 700hp mark, with a proper ECU that is..

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yeah wont ever be running massive power as i have the auto box and doubt full to change from that so 500 - 600 max.

i will keep a eye out for a second engine but im keeping my options open at the moment getting some prices, the mrs will kill me blowing 6k on it lol no one say anything at the charity doo okay

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So from a cost point of few, is brand new OEM pistons, rods, rings etc going to add up to much more that going with aftermarket rods and pistons (Mahle, Toda etc)?

 

If it is alot cheaper, then it may be feasible if you looking to stay around the 700hp mark, with a proper ECU that is..

 

The Mahle pistons and ARP rods are pretty much all he needs and the pistons are prob not much dearer than stock, PW's are bearings are prob 1/3 the price of Toyota.

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