mclarenross Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 (edited) Hi, I've read all the other posts, but nothing seems to be working yet... I've emptied the whole brake system of fluid as I did a complete rebuild of the brakes, I'm trying to bleed the system, starting with the rear left (2 man technique) we've tried 10 fast pumps and also going slowly, but no fluid is coming through. Tried with engine on/ off and no difference. The master cylinder was working fine before I started, do I need to bleed the master cylnlinder and if so could someone offer step by step guide? Any advice would be appreciated ! Edited March 4, 2012 by mclarenross (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a98pmalcolm Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 When I bled my brakes on my J-spec callipers I had to REALLY undo the bleed nipple so much that I thought the nipple was about to come out before the fluid came through. The only advice i can give is that and DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BLEED NIPPLE. Literately when you do it up and you feel its tight only nip it up almost so its just tighter than finger tight or the calliper will split as it did mine. I learnt the expensive way (well no so expensive) but still cost me money for a 2nd hand calliper and the self embarrassment of such a school boy error. So the other 3 callipers I did were safe after my lesson. Good luck and I hope what I said helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 Patience is the clue, keep pumping but dont go mad and aerate the fluid, you could try just undoing the nipple and having a cup of tea or 2 and the fluid will come thru, or go to halfords and buy one of those kits that use the air from your spare to push the fluid thru. We use a suction tool that pulls the fluid thru. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 (edited) Read the WSM on the braking section Go onto the forum homepage and at the top left under the supra logo you'll see repair manuals, click on that and the brakes section is listed there A vaccum bleeder is definitely the way to go Edited March 4, 2012 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si_s Supe Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 If you've emptied the system of fluid, there's you're problem! You will have air in the ABS pump which is virtually impossible to bleed out. Chances are, you'll need to find somewhere with a bit of kit that cycles the pump to force the air out. The following few paragraphs are copied from here: http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/maintenance/4213448 Antilock braking systems are even less tolerant of contaminated fluid and air than non-ABS. The ABS hydraulic pump operates at several thousand psi, forcing brake fluid through very small valves. This can whip air and brake fluid into something like the foam on a latte, which makes bleeding difficult. Those same valves and pump can easily be damaged by tiny abrasive particles. The good news: Air that has entered the ABS controller can be bled out. Bad news: Some vehicles require the use of a hideously expensive proprietary ABS scan tool to cycle the pump and valves to purge the last of the air. But there's a simple solution to that: Never let any air enter the system. You can flush a system with fresh fluid by using nothing more than a wrench that fits the bleeder bolts -- and a helper with a normal attention span. Read more: How to Bleed Brakes - Tips on Bleeding Brakes - Popular Mechanics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazuk Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 If you've had the rear brakes off make sure they are the right way round I did this once the right one on the left so the bleed nipples where at the bottom rather than top Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Budz86 Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 Maybe an obvious one but I take it you are closing the bleed nipple after each pump of the brake peddle? Otherwise the fluid will move forward and back, not just forward like you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mclarenross Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 Hi guys, thanks for the advice, luckily it is the ABS type and the calipers are the correct way round, I'll try again tonight. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mclarenross Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 I've just read in the manual... [i]1) If master cylinder is rebuilt or reservoir is empty, bleed master cylinder first. Bleed remaining wheels starting on wheel with longest hydraulic line and work toward wheel with shortest hydraulic line. anyone know how to bleed the master cylinder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 I've just read in the manual... [i]1) If master cylinder is rebuilt or reservoir is empty, bleed master cylinder first. Bleed remaining wheels starting on wheel with longest hydraulic line and work toward wheel with shortest hydraulic line. anyone know how to bleed the master cylinder? It tells you exactly how to do this in the manual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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