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Fueling Problems (EMU?) advice please


Noz
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Hi guys,

 

further research and changing components had lead to me thinking I have a fueling problem.

 

I have changed various ignition components with no change in performance. Having white plugs was the first sign that I was running too lean.

 

The problem of this misfire has got worst, and the car doesn't like boost.

 

My fuel pressure is at 5bar, which drops to around just over 3bar. Slightly high I think.

 

I have had the emissions checked from the exhaust, typically around 3% with cat's in is the usual (for general cars Im told). My car is running 0.5% (think its carbon).

 

Spoken to brendan tonight and he says I should check the fuel regulator, may be letting too much fuel past the injectors.

 

Other opinions would be great.

 

The car idles better on cold start, though the emissions is still seriously low. There is a lack of fuel getting to the engine. I first thought the water leak could of caused a break down of some ignition components, but since changing everything and the car running so lean I think it's just bad luck things have happened at the same time.

 

I have had emanage ultimate installed, with 440cc injectors.

 

When connecting the laptop up to the EMU I can only check maps, I can't get any logging, I'm going to see if I can download some different software as I've been told this is a confliction with the version of windows and the version of the Greddy software.

 

Tried ringing Ryan tonight hopefully he will get back to me with some ideas.

 

When the ECU was installed, Paul told me the ECU had a problem reading air values so a fuel cut defender was installed. Could this direct me towards a faulty EMU to begin with?

 

Also, how can I disconnect the piggy back ECU and run the stock ECU, is it just as simple as disconnecting it and the stock ECU will kick in. I know it will run rich but at the moment it's very obvious I have a serious problem at tick over.

 

Thanks for advice guys, I'm pretty gutted I've run into a serious problem.

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I think yes. That will not help fuel to the chamber, but if the car idles better when it is cold, it's because when the engine is cold it needs more fuel (you should have to much fuel), and when the pres. is high means more fuel, but if you give to much it can "split" the spark plugs and will not let it to give a nice spark. And on the spark and even on a lambda gauge you can only read any good value when you have burning in the cylinder, so when you have misfire you can't read it. Or just try with the E-manage, give more, or less fuel, if you can connect. Sorry for my bad english :) still learning, hope you understand what i mean.

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The voltage read from a stock O2 sensor signal wire will tell you if it's rich or lean under load or at idle. The fuel pressure should be that at which it was mapped, if you fiddle with it the map is then useless, as that "ECU" you have won't have any ability to correct for fuel pressure as it's not being measured, nor has it the ability to read and act on a measurement.. It should be set to a given and suitable figure with regard to injector flow and type, with the fuel regulator vac off, and then left alone to do its thing with the pressure line back on. You can't read plugs like in the days of leaded fuel, the porcelain tip colour means very little. If you want an ACCURATE AFR figure you need a wide band, but a narrow band O2 sensor will still tell you if you have a rich or lean condtion. A miss will show as lack of fuel by HC's being normal in the exhaust, a miss from faulty ignition will give high HC's. Given the right gear getting a handle on what's wrong would take very little time, just pay someone to sort it, and do whatever you do to make the money to hand across ;)

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In my experience you will never get right value from the stock O2 sensor, if you would like to read it right you need to go with an AFR gauge, with wideband. And it is sure that the fuel pressure must be the same as the car was mapped, but if the car had the stock one i always go back to the stock pres. first (never seen that it was different). Be sure if you use any type of O2 sensor (narrow or wide) it must tapped before the cat.

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Ok you can diagnostic, with it but not accurate and what if they changed the stock one for an aftermarket, that has different reading???? I have found a few here in Hungary with no cel light but wrong reading volts. So i always go with the wideband. And like i found they are only good for idle or part throttle. And when it's open loop you can't get info. And they are slow very slow to tune a car nicely, and correct. You can use it for diagnostic stock cars but nothing else, i think. I don't whan't any conflict :D :D this is just my opinion, and experience.

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No conflict Lacee, I know what you are saying, but you really can diagnose (not tune or map) using a narrow band quite well, in so far as you can see if the mixture is mad rich or mad weak. No substitute for a wideband (which every modded turbo car should have, for peace of mind if nothing else). Any nice Komondors round your parts?

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What voltages should I be seeing from the O2 sensor. I can't get any readings from the ECU when the car is running using emange software. I've changed more ignition components, no difference.

 

I'm thinking of sending the ECU off for a check over, as I've checked or changed all ignition components and checked the spark frequency with a lead sensor and still no luck.

 

The car is barely drivable. It's giving 0.5% emissions when on idle. I've also changed the TPS, as expected no difference.

 

I'm going to try and reduce the gap on the sparks, but I think im clutching at straws now. No engine management light has come on, no errors. With full throttle the car holds at 3k rpm and judders, it really can't get enough fuel into the engine.

 

I need to get a wide band AFR gauge really, but at the moment I will have to make do with o2 sensor voltages. Is there anywhere in the manual that gives me required voltages for ratio's?

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What voltages should I be seeing from the O2 sensor. I can't get any readings from the ECU when the car is running using emange software. I've changed more ignition components, no difference.

 

I'm thinking of sending the ECU off for a check over, as I've checked or changed all ignition components and checked the spark frequency with a lead sensor and still no luck.

 

The car is barely drivable. It's giving 0.5% emissions when on idle. I've also changed the TPS, as expected no difference.

 

I'm going to try and reduce the gap on the sparks, but I think im clutching at straws now. No engine management light has come on, no errors. With full throttle the car holds at 3k rpm and judders, it really can't get enough fuel into the engine.

 

I need to get a wide band AFR gauge really, but at the moment I will have to make do with o2 sensor voltages. Is there anywhere in the manual that gives me required voltages for ratio's?

 

http://www.picoauto.com/applications/lambda-sensor.html

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:D yes right you can diagnostic with the stock O2 sensor.

what do you mean by "Komondors round my parts?"

 

A Komondor is an ancient Hungarian flock guarding dog breed. They are rare in Hungary, and ultra rare elsewhere. I have had them since I was about 18 and was wondering if you had many around wherever you are in Hungary? Unless you are out in the mountains you won't see many / any.

 

 

 

http://www.justdogbreeds.com/komondor.html

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A Komondor is an ancient Hungarian flock guarding dog breed. They are rare in Hungary, and ultra rare elsewhere. I have had them since I was about 18 and was wondering if you had many around wherever you are in Hungary? Unless you are out in the mountains you won't see many / any.

 

 

 

http://www.justdogbreeds.com/komondor.html

 

I see, no i don't have any, but my girlfriend had 4 of them :) they are nice and big :)

When i was young me and my family had a Rottweiler. Nickname was "Red" :D

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Sorry for delay on this thread i have been away for christmas period enjoying some time off.

 

Ok if all the ignition components have been changed and a missfire is still present then it might be faulty TTL Drivers on the EMU (as the Airflow circuit output on your EMU is already faulty it could be a problem with the board which would explain why it is getting worse) Have seen a few have issues with the Ignition side on the EMU. To test you can bypass the emu ignition control system by adding some some wire joints between the pins on the Ignition connector. You would need to look at manual to ensure you have right connector and that you are also joining the correct pins as will have to link E.G... IGN1 in and IGN1OUT

 

If the miss is still present off BOOST then i will need to do some testing with some AutoEle tools to see exactly where the problem lies.

 

I think barneybredan is down by you and has a spare EMU i believe

 

Ryan

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Sorry for delay on this thread i have been away for christmas period enjoying some time off.

 

Ok if all the ignition components have been changed and a missfire is still present then it might be faulty TTL Drivers on the EMU (as the Airflow circuit output on your EMU is already faulty it could be a problem with the board which would explain why it is getting worse) Have seen a few have issues with the Ignition side on the EMU. To test you can bypass the emu ignition control system by adding some some wire joints between the pins on the Ignition connector. You would need to look at manual to ensure you have right connector and that you are also joining the correct pins as will have to link E.G... IGN1 in and IGN1OUT

 

If the miss is still present off BOOST then i will need to do some testing with some AutoEle tools to see exactly where the problem lies.

 

I think barneybredan is down by you and has a spare EMU i believe

 

Ryan

 

Sadly i have sold my setup so that is not an option.Have sent noz the number for a local company that repairs ecu's.the guy is really good and repaired my knackerd map ecu2.

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Ok, if it looks like an EMU problem I will remove the ECU tomorrow and disconnect the intake pipe for the turbo and run the car NA.

 

Ryan, will the car be ok to run the 440's on the stock ECU, I'm assuming the sensors should adjust the fueling accordingly and not over fuel to the point of damaing the engine so I can at least see if the problem is ECU defined, if the problem is still present I will need to check other possibilities.

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Ok, if it looks like an EMU problem I will remove the ECU tomorrow and disconnect the intake pipe for the turbo and run the car NA.

 

Ryan, will the car be ok to run the 440's on the stock ECU, I'm assuming the sensors should adjust the fueling accordingly and not over fuel to the point of damaing the engine so I can at least see if the problem is ECU defined, if the problem is still present I will need to check other possibilities.

did you give the ecu company a bell yet.

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Hi guys,

 

further research and changing components had lead to me thinking I have a fueling problem.

 

I have changed various ignition components with no change in performance. Having white plugs was the first sign that I was running too lean.

 

The problem of this misfire has got worst, and the car doesn't like boost.

 

My fuel pressure is at 5bar, which drops to around just over 3bar. Slightly high I think.

 

I have had the emissions checked from the exhaust, typically around 3% with cat's in is the usual (for general cars Im told). My car is running 0.5% (think its carbon).

 

Spoken to brendan tonight and he says I should check the fuel regulator, may be letting too much fuel past the injectors.

 

Other opinions would be great.

 

The car idles better on cold start, though the emissions is still seriously low. There is a lack of fuel getting to the engine. I first thought the water leak could of caused a break down of some ignition components, but since changing everything and the car running so lean I think it's just bad luck things have happened at the same time.

 

I have had emanage ultimate installed, with 440cc injectors.

 

When connecting the laptop up to the EMU I can only check maps, I can't get any logging, I'm going to see if I can download some different software as I've been told this is a confliction with the version of windows and the version of the Greddy software.

 

Tried ringing Ryan tonight hopefully he will get back to me with some ideas.

 

When the ECU was installed, Paul told me the ECU had a problem reading air values so a fuel cut defender was installed. Could this direct me towards a faulty EMU to begin with?

 

Also, how can I disconnect the piggy back ECU and run the stock ECU, is it just as simple as disconnecting it and the stock ECU will kick in. I know it will run rich but at the moment it's very obvious I have a serious problem at tick over.

 

Thanks for advice guys, I'm pretty gutted I've run into a serious problem.

 

Can i ask a stupid Q, have you put your foot down in the car with not a lot of fuel in ! i did this in a totaly different car. Basicalliy pulled a load off rubbish though the system,lumpy as hell thought i done some real damege. It was no Turbo.

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