Coilover setup and protection from the elements.

I have had my car for four months now and the HKS HyperD coilovers have died When I removed them they were a complete mess, Spring platforms were rusted together, the shock boots were flaking away allowing grit and crud in to damage the shock seals etc etc

I Have now bought a new set of BC's after owning a similar set on my S13 and being happy with their design and build quality.

I have worked on so many peoples cars with badly corroded and siezed coilovers I thought I'd share some methods that have always kept my Coilovers working like the day I fitted them.

Here are the Rears,

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/389561_10150536200385701_519105700_11386640_1102163270_n.jpg

First job is to strip them down to reveal all the shock body threads

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/374959_10150536200905701_519105700_11386642_1878557892_n.jpg

Then get some copper grease and a clean rag, You don't need to use loads, just enough to lightly coat all the threads. When you start to re-assemble the platforms excess grease will build up as you screw them on so you can just wipe that away with another rag.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/381542_10150536201480701_519105700_11386645_1538290437_n.jpg

Once that is done, re-assemble them and they are ready to fit to the car. Once they are on the car I like to set the spring preload first followed by the ride height and then the dampening.

To set the spring preload wind up the top platform until the spring has no uncompressed free play on the shock (Zero preload). Wind up the second platform to meet the top one. At this point get the large C spanner and start to wind up the top platform until it is at least 5mm above the second platform (add 5mm preload) and then wind up the second platform and tighten it up against the first with both C spanners to lock them together.

This picture shows the amount of preload added to the spring (distance between the top two platforms) I ended up settleing for 8mm preload before I wound up the second platform to "lock them off"

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/384898_10150536202175701_519105700_11386648_827932469_n.jpg

At this point set the ride height fairly close to how they came from the factory, put the wheels on and roll the car back and forward a few feet to let the geometry settle. Take a measuring tape and measure from the arch to the top of the rim and work out how much adjustment is needed to meet the desired ride height front and back.

With the car jacked back up and the wheels off, take a measuring tape and measure the distance between the top mount of the shock and the top of the cup that the shock sits in and add or subtract the desired adjustment figure you measured earlier.

To raise or lower the ride height wind up the bottom platform so it is out of the way and then turn the whole shock clockwise or anti clockwise to raise or lower the shock. Keep measuring the distance between the top mount and the top of the shock cup and adjust until it is right. Once you are finished, wind the bottom platform back down tight to the shock cup.

Once you are happy with the ride height take the car for a drive and adjust your damper settings to suit your requirements. If you can't get it to feel right with the damper adjustments then try adding or subtracting spring preload until you find what you are looking for and adjust the dampers again. This is a trial and error process that takes a whle but it is necessary in order to get the car handling how you want it.

The shocks should look like this when you are finished, make sure all platforms are locked tight and all bolts are torqued up propperly.

https://fbcdn-photos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/389977_10150538616055701_519105700_11398767_1544953045_a.jpg

Once everything is all fine and you're happy with the setup, it is a good idea to take some steps to keep out all the road crud, water and salt they get bombarded with for years.

You can buy shock covers but they aren't cheap and it is very easy to make some.

I was lucky enough to have an old tent that I don't use anymore. I cut squares of the outer shell enough to wrap around the shocks twice. I then folded and stapled channels for some cable ties which will be responsible for securing the covers.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/408276_10150536202685701_519105700_11386650_1176000366_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s320x320/385027_10150536295710701_519105700_11387110_853811527_n.jpg

Wrap the oposite end round first leaving the end with the cable ties on the outside, and then zip them up nice and tight and clip the excess off.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/397874_10150538603575701_519105700_11398730_2091446039_n.jpg

That should keep them nice for years. Here is a pic of the coilovers that came off my S13 after two years. They were a bit dusty but a wipe down with a damp cloth left them looking like new so it really works

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/301380_10150379342445701_519105700_10632088_594767652_n.jpg

I never drive my car in the rain but mine have minor rust on them maybe from washing, I might use this method thanks.

Just take them off and bring them in the house after every (dry, salt free) journey?

i might be being stupid but wouldnt wrapping them build up excess heat?

just a thought

must work well though as the ones that came off your S13 look like they havent been used!

I can't say yes or no to the heat question, but I do know that it never caused any issues on my S13. I also have a quad and that has really thick and heavey shock covers and I imagine the shocks are far more active on that than a car and they are fine.

It may seem a bit silly and unnecessary to some but if it helps prevent seized spring platforms, perished seals and heavey corrosion then why not?

It's definetly not stupid. Think it's a good idea. I had a set of tein a few years back and with in 6 months they were already starting to show signs of seizing. Will be looking into this when I get another set of coilovers.

I'm in the process of refurbishing my HKS coilovers...will be off to Tesco to buy a value tent for this!

my brand new custom built leda coilovers look like sh1t after just 18 months on the car, tent time for me as well.

i have the same coilovers,

just wondering what you set your dampers too?

at the moment mine are set the same as they came, in the middle

i have the same coilovers,

just wondering what you set your dampers too?

at the moment mine are set the same as they came, in the middle

To be honest im still not 100% finished setting them up yet.

So far I have 8mm spring preload back and 5mm front, the rear dampers have 4 clicks harder from the factory middle setting on the back and the front I haven't touched yet. The back needs hardening up a bit more as its slightly under dampened for the spring preload (feels a bit bouncy on rebound).

The front seems ok, I need to get some miles and different types of driving on them still but so far so good as far as road driving goes...

i might be being stupid but wouldnt wrapping them build up excess heat?

Why would they get hot?

Good write up mate

Well the fluid heats up as the dampers compress and decompress. If the fluid gets too hot it will change the dampening force. It is one reason why some shocks have external reservoirs. The more fluid in the damper the less the fluid heats up which helps keep a consistent dampening force.

I have never heard of any issues with overheating because of covers though...

*EDIT* I referred to fluid but I guess its the same principle for gas shocks?

A race damper can see 120 C plus, a rally raid damper a lot more. Fluid dynamics and all that. Can't you just Waxoyl them? My Eibach dampers on my Skyline are fine, with just a steam off every few months, but they are anodized alloy, not steel.

Talking of rust i had a car in the other day with seized rear calipers (not a Supra). I tried stripping them but the pistons were totally seized. Seemed the owner had bought some cheap repair kit off Ebay and the mild steel pistons were not even plated, let alone chromed. A pal knows the vendor and mentioned this, apparently they said they sell far more exchange units just out of warranty like this, than if they used chromed or stainless pistons. Hard to argue with that sort of logic