The ultimate street handling set up...?

My Tein SS coilover has started to squeak:( so while the suspension is pieces and the car is in the garage I would like to upgrade or replace parts to further improve the handling:eyebrows:. What I would like to know is, which modifications do you guys recommend that will give my car a noticeable improvement to my current setup.

I needing to replace my rear tires as well I believe that I can fit 295's on 10.5J; will there be a noticeable difference in grip and handling with the 295 wide tires?

Car: BPU 400BHP --TT6--70k miles '2000 built'.

Current Setup:

Wheels Volk Racing: (Rolled Arches)

9.5J ---245/30/19 Bridgestone Potenza

10.5J---285/30/19 Bridgestone Potenza

Cusco Front & Rear Brace Bar's.

Tein SS Coilover

Shopping List considered so far: (What else do you recommend)

1) Front & Rear---R2 Racing Control Arm Bushing

2) Coilover's not 100% Certain yet, There is a Hiper Max II with 1k miles for 450 pounds and Tein Mono Flex with 2.5k miles for 700pounds for the for sale section on here? My budget is +/- 1,200ish Pounds.

3) Tires---Michelin Pilot Sport 2

Parts below added top suspension overhall, I would like to replace some of the OEM parts with Ikeya. I'm waiting on expert advice on which ones will be more most affective as to keep cost getting into silly ammounts.

Front:

48610-19025 Front Upper Arm - RH

48630-19025 Front Upper Arm - LH

48068-14080 Front Lower Arm sub assy - RH

48069-14080 Front Lower Arm sub assy - LH

Rear:

48730-14040 Rear Lower Arm - RH

48740-14070 Rear Lower Arm - LH

48710-14110 Rear Arm Assembly RH

48720-xxxxx Rear Arm Assembly LH

48780A Rod assy, rear

48780A Rod assy, rear

48725-14070 Bush, rear axle carrier 48725F RH

48725-14070 Bush, rear axle carrier 48725G LH

48770A Arm assy, Upper control, rear RH

48790 Arm assy, Upper control, rear LH

For the best results I'd recommend fitting brand new OEM Toyota suspension arms rather than just replacing the bushes, see THIS THREAD on the subject.

Or if you're feeling really flush then the ultimate setup would be replacement Ikeya Formula suspension arms

I doubt you'll notice any differance in grip going up a size on the rears.

How does your car drive now ?

Have you had the suspension geometry set up ?

I have new o/e shocks with the Eibach sport lowering kit and TRD arb's and very

happy how my car handles. its had all new o/e arms though with a proper geo set up.

Unless your suspension arms have play in the bushes or ball joints or are seized i'd leave well alone

and considering your car is quite young i'd think they should be fine. From what i've read

it doesn't look like the polybushes are an upgrade.

Is it really necessary to get new oem suspension arms on a 2000 model...how many miles has your car done!?

I don't have any issues what so ever re suspension, but my car has always been on the oem REAS suspension.

Ive added front and rear strut braces and will soon add a set or stronger ARBs. Past that I would go with the R2 bushes also as can't see the arms needing replaced already!?

How does your car drive now ?

1) At full lock I hear a clonking noise coming from my driver side front side.

2) On bumps I hear squeak from rear passenger side (I’ve turned the Tein Suspension rod round and it stopped making the noise for a week but then it returned)

3) When I take a sharp corner or roundabout at medium speed I feel the car sags too much to one side.

Have you had the suspension geometry set up ?

I believe so, the car also drives on a straight line when I take my hands of the steering wheel.

I have new o/e shocks with the Eibach sport lowering kit and TRD arb's and very

happy how my car handles. its had all new o/e arms though with a proper geo set up.

Unless your suspension arms have play in the bushes or ball joints or are seized i'd leave well alone

and considering your car is quite young i'd think they should be fine. From what i've read

it doesn't look like the polybushes are an upgrade.

I’ve heard the contrary ie:

Originally Posted by Blackout

Does MVP recommend R2 Bushes? I've heard some bad things about them is all...

We've been selling them about 4 years now and I have never had a bad review on them - ever. There are several public reviews of their bushes on the USA SupraForums, all reviews very positive.

I would be interested in hearing what negative things you have heard about their bushes (other than the wait time of course).

Thanks,

Dusty

When I had my geo done at Wheels in Motion. They told me that the best upgrade to handling on the supra was stiffer anti-roll bars. They said that the suspension setups would have a minimal effect for most street used supras.

Is it really necessary to get new oem suspension arms on a 2000 model...how many miles has your car done!?

 

I don't have any issues what so ever re suspension, but my car has always been on the oem REAS suspension.

 

I’ve added front and rear strut braces and will soon add a set or stronger ARBs. Past that I would go with the R2 bushes also as can't see the arms needing replaced already!?

The link to the thread that Nic posted was created by IanC in 2008; he did a for full overall of his 1996 --- 70k miles Supra he also was driving on hard suspension. ‘’70K is the mileage and suspension setting I currently have’’.

I believe I am a safe driver, but I am also a fast driver; the roads where I live are fantastic there are hardly and police or speed cameras; so I would say my style driving is almost like I am tracking’’.

I used to race go karts when I was a kid so I will really appreciate a fantastic handling car!

I've contacted Paul W. and Chris Wilson to help me plan this up-grade...! :-)

Can't wait to have a solid suspension set up..! :-)

looking forward to what the outcome of the set up is. good luck

Ive had loads of setups over the years in various supras, for a street car i still like Tein flex the best, they give such a nice ride, soft enough to soak up the bumps and firm enough when you are on it, fully adjustable in every way i want.

I would also drop down to 18" wheels and get some tyres with a decent amount of sidewall.

Thanks for the PM, handling starts with a tyre and wheel choice. IMO 19 inch rims are a poor choice for an old car like the MKIV, their camber control is bad, even worse when lowered. I like them on 16 or 17 inch rims, but 18 can be made to work quite well on a road car. Best budget dampers are probably Nitrons, if you really must have ride height adjustment from an off the shelf damper. I would need to know just what you expect from this car. What tyres have you got on it right now, and would you be happy on 17 inch or 18 inch rims?

Thanks for the PM, handling starts with a tyre and wheel choice. IMO 19 inch rims are a poor choice for an old car like the MKIV, their camber control is bad, even worse when lowered. I like them on 16 or 17 inch rims, but 18 can be made to work quite well on a road car. Best budget dampers are probably Nitrons, if you really must have ride height adjustment from an off the shelf damper. I would need to know just what you expect from this car. What tyres have you got on it right now, and would you be happy on 17 inch or 18 inch rims?

Chris,

Below is my current wheel and tyre size.

19'' 9.5J ---245/30/19 Bridgestone Potenza

19'' 10.5J---285/30/19 Bridgestone Potenza

Yes I would consider 18'' wheels and I know of these wheels that are being sold for a good price Blitz Z2 18x9+41/18x10+45+tires Bridgstone Potenza 275/30/18 - 245/35/18.

By using Ikeya formula's "Front lower arm", "Rear lower arm" and "Tie-rod end" which possess the roll center adjuster function will correct the roll center and set back to the position where has the shorter distance between center of gravity and roll center and then decreases the roll amount. Is it not possible to solve the camber implication of having 19'' wheels and lowered with these front and lower arms?

I would need to know just what you expect from this car

The car will be used for track and road use; I am willing to sacrifice a bit of comfort for having better handling car.

 

By using Ikeya formula's "Front lower arm", "Rear lower arm" and "Tie-rod end" which possess the roll center adjuster function will correct the roll center and set back to the position where has the shorter distance between center of gravity and roll center and then decreases the roll amount. Is it not possible to solve the camber implication of having 19'' wheels and lowered with these front and lower arms?

 

I'm interested in a learned answer to this aswell, I know the ikeya's are not recommended for road use but I've always wondered could the supra suspension not be made to work better with 18's and a shed load of rubber? It has always been said no to over-tyre the supra as it becomes detrimental to the handling, is there nothing that could be done to take advantage of good quality wide rubber on wheels that look a little better (lower offsets)?

Im very intrested to see the answer for this

I've had the same goal over the years. My result have been so far from a 100% stock j-spec TT 93:

Tried 3 suspension setups. A full CW suspension on 18" definately is the best I've tried. It's firm but stil road usable. A bit soft when pushing hard on track, but I'm guessing as close as you get to a proper mix of the two.

I'm changing all suspension arms with OEM new stuff, and adding TRD anti-roll bars as well as TRD strut tower bars.

In addition, TRD brake disks and full EU brakes gave A LOT in regards to track usability but also a firmer pedal on the road.

Last but not least a set of really nice bucket seats gave a lot more than I expected. Of cause it keeps you better planted in the seat but that lead to a much more "safe" feeling when pushing the car on track through corners. I actually think that mod was the one that gave to most in relation to average speed on the track (for me at least) as well as they look just sooo nice

I will have my new suspension arms mounted this winter and wil thoroughly test them @ the Ring next spring. But I'm also expecting quite a difference on normal road driving.