Has anyone used this EBC??

Found this boost controller and wandered if anyone has used one? All I need is an EBC and a 1st decat and I'm ready to go BPU. I don't plan on going any further that BPU (IE single etc.) so don't really need anything super special. Just need to get to 1.2 bar! I have a Defi boost gauge so it doesn't matter that this EBC doesn't have a boost reading on it.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HDi-electronic-boost-controller-EBC-R-free-shipping-UK-/230574551344?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35af507130

Any input appreciated!

You don't need a boost controller to run 1.2bar, click -> BPU

That boost controller is VERY basic, personally I'd save yourself some money and fit a ball and spring manual boost controller instead, a lot easier to fit and once set can be forgotten about.

Isn't a manual boost controller a bit 'sketchy'??

Also, in my own mind, the idea of removing the restriction in the exhaust by decatting and then adding a restriction back into the exhaust with a restrictor ring seems a bit crude. Not to mention a possible problem in that if and when the RR breaks up as exhaust components have a habit of doing, your suddenly going to over boost.

Is there no way of decatting without a RR and reducing the boost to 1.2 bar pre exhaust?? Ie a restriction in the vac lines somewhere (like Nissan did with the 200sx) or even adjustable / modified actuator arms??

Isn't a manual boost controller a bit 'sketchy'??

You'll get the same results with a ball and spring manual boost controller as that electronic boost controller.

Also, in my own mind, the idea of removing the restriction in the exhaust by decatting and then adding a restriction back into the exhaust with a restrictor ring seems a bit crude. Not to mention a possible problem in that if and when the RR breaks up as exhaust components have a habit of doing, your suddenly going to over boost.

 

Is there no way of decatting without a RR and reducing the boost to 1.2 bar pre exhaust?? Ie a restriction in the vac lines somewhere (like Nissan did with the 200sx) or even adjustable / modified actuator arms??

The problem is that the wastegate opening on the J-spec turbos is physically too small to flow enough exhaust gasses to be able to regulate the boost pressure once the restriction of the catalytic convertors has been removed. There is no easy way to increase the flow of the wastegate.

Have a read of the BPU thread it explains everything in detail, fitting a restrictor ring is a tried and tested method of regulating the boost and has been used by many many owners over many years, it's simple, it works, it's reliable and it's relatively cheap.

Isn't a manual boost controller a bit 'sketchy'??

 

Also, in my own mind, the idea of removing the restriction in the exhaust by decatting and then adding a restriction back into the exhaust with a restrictor ring seems a bit crude. Not to mention a possible problem in that if and when the RR breaks up as exhaust components have a habit of doing, your suddenly going to over boost.

 

Is there no way of decatting without a RR and reducing the boost to 1.2 bar pre exhaust?? Ie a restriction in the vac lines somewhere (like Nissan did with the 200sx) or even adjustable / modified actuator arms??

I fail to see how a metal plate with a hole in it, bolted between the 1st and 2nd cat could "break up"

You'll get the same results with a ball and spring manual boost controller as that electronic boost controller.

 

 

 

The problem is that the wastegate opening on the J-spec turbos is physically too small to flow enough exhaust gasses to be able to regulate the boost pressure once the restriction of the catalytic convertors has been removed. There is no easy way to increase the flow of the wastegate.

 

Have a read of the BPU thread it explains everything in detail, fitting a restrictor ring is a tried and tested method of regulating the boost and has been used by many many owners over many years, it's simple, it works, it's reliable and it's relatively cheap.

Ok, thought it was worth posing the question. So, it says in the BPU article that the RR should be 2" to give 1.2 bar of boost. Is this an exact science or does it differ between cars? Since I don't have access to a ramp it'll be a nightmare jacking the car up to fit the RR only to find it needs machining and be taking it on and off the car to get it right? I had also planned on fitting a 3" 1st decat as it seems strange to fit a 2.5" 1st then a 3" 2nd. Is the 2.5" 1st all part of the required restriction though??

Nothing with regards to making boost is an exact science, everything will change from car to car.

As Nic says, get a RR and a MBC. Fit the restrictor ring with your decat, as long as it's above 1.0bar and below 1.2bar without any boost control you will be fine. In an ideal world you would hit 1.1bar in the higher gears, but it rarely works out that way. If you want the RR setup as effectively as possible then it will need to be taken out and dremmeled until you hit the magic 1.1bar. This isn't necessary though, as long as you are above 1.0bar it isn't TOO much of a restriction and you will be fine, wheras under 1.0bar IMO you are taking a risk with the EGTs.

With regards to the EBC you have listed, as Nic said it's very very basic. Ideally you want to be getting a reasonable EBC with at least gain control. The difference between a MBC and a good EBC is mind blowing (I wrote a thread on it a few months back). In order to get these changes an EBC with gain is required though. The top end EBCs can control boost vs RPM and in-gear boost etc, those are niceties for gaining traction and driveability. If you are confident in your ability with your right foot they don't really serve any purpose, they are just nice to have.

HTH

Ah I get it! So I don't need to get the RR to give me exactly 1.2 bar then. As long as the car hits between 1.0 and 1.1 I'm fine then can use a MBC to take it to 1.2 bar. Should I be looking at 1.2 bar as a max. peak boost, or 1.2 bar steady but may get a bit more as a peak?

Also, what make of ball and spring MBC do you recommend? Looked at the Turbosmart ones.

I went with an R-Type or Type-R or something like that. Most of them should be fine as long as they are ball and spring as they are fairly basic.

You want to be hitting 1.2bar as a max. A brief spike above isn't an issue but a prolonged spike at high RPMs is going to cause problems. Just before I took my car off the road I was hitting 1.2bar with a spike of 1.3bar just after the transition. This was due to the way I had set up the gain, I wanted it coming in HARD. No issues with this as the turbos aren't working hard at this stage and the fueling was absolutely spot on (heard of lean spots sometimes but I had no issues).

Not so sure you will be able to get the same sort of effect with an MBC though, there is no gain feature so whatever you set the peak for on the MBC it won't really go above it.

Ah I get it! So I don't need to get the RR to give me exactly 1.2 bar then. As long as the car hits between 1.0 and 1.1 I'm fine then can use a MBC to take it to 1.2 bar. Should I be looking at 1.2 bar as a max. peak boost' date=' or 1.2 bar steady but may get a bit more as a peak? [/quote']

 

There are a few different ways you could go.

 

1. The best BPU setup would be to remove both cats, fit a restrictor ring to limit boost to say 1bar then fit a good quality electronic boost controller which includes the 'gain' feature and the ability to map boost settings against rpm, speed, throttle position etc. The 'gain' feature controls how the wastegate opens, this makes a significant difference to how quickly the turbos spool up. The ability to map the boost settings allows you to maximise the boost to say 1.2bar through every gear.

 

2. Remove both cats, fit a RR to regulate boost to say 1bar then use either a basic electronic boost controller or manual boost controller to raise the boost to 1.2bar. The boost pressure will always be higher when the engine is under more load in higher gears, so you would need to set the peak boost of 1.2bar in say 5th/6th gear but you will see slightly lower boost (between 1-1.2bar) in lower gears.

 

3. Remove both cats, fit a restrictor ring and adjust the size of the hole in the restrictor ring to make 1.2bar in say 5th/6th gear. As Scott said this is not an exact science so it'll take a bit of trial and error to get the opening in the RR the right size. One issue with this is that come winter when the temps drop you will see a slight increase in peak boost pressure.

Awesome. Thanks for the help guys. Made things a lot clearer, as usual here!! I do like to explore all routes before any decisions are made. Leaves just one more question: 1st decat size?

1- 2.5"?

2- 3"?

Awesome. Thanks for the help guys. Made things a lot clearer, as usual here!! I do like to explore all routes before any decisions are made. Leaves just one more question: 1st decat size?

 

1- 2.5"?

 

2- 3"?

It'll make no difference which diameter you go for, either way you'll need to fit a restrictor ring.

Ok, 2.5" seems the easier one to get hold of (though prices seem to vary somewhat for some reason) so that's what I'll go for. Any recommendations where to get one? If anyone reading this has a second hand one in good condition...let me know!