93 Hardtop - 3.4 conversion

Copied over from Supraforums.

I have been working on my car over the last month or so and figured an update is due. This was SW's car, then Ryan's and I purchased it in April of last year.

The car had a 71GTS DBB billet turbo. Roughly 800WHP on C16. A more than capable street car. However, I ran across a good deal on a 3.4 and the wallet was never the same. Since I bought a new engine I was able to keep my car running up until about 6 weeks ago. The 3.4 is on the stand ready to drop in. I pick up the car from having the engine bay resprayed in the morning. I am hoping to have the car 100% finished and tuned in the next two weeks.

First things first, a big "thank you" to Ryan Woon for the parts and countless hours he spent on the phone/texting me going over my build in details. Thanks again Ryan!

I've been receiving numerous PM's with questions regarding parts on the car. Here is a complete list of the car as it sits today.

Engine Performance:

3.4L Engine

Block bored .20 over

JE custom billet pistons, 9.2:1

BC billet crank (94mm)

Carillo HD rods w/ Carr bolts

Titan billet main caps

ARP main studs

ARP L19 ½” head studs

Clevite bearings

Titan/ATI crank pulley

UR pulley set

UR idler pulley

UR cam gears

Titan billet tensioner bracket

TRD motor mounts

All new Toyota parts, nuts and bolts from tranny forward

Engine Dress:

TiTek wet carbon coil pack cover

TiTek wet carbon fuse box cover

TiTek wet carbon cooling panel

Aerolite wet carbon ABS relay cover

Aerolite wet carbon mid timing cover

Aerolite wet carbon lower timing cover

Tooprecise Machine coolant overflow

Tooprecise Machine billet Braille battery tray

Head:

Stage 4 port/polish

Custom ground 10.3mm lift intake cam

Custom ground 9.5mm lift exhaust cam

Ferrea bronze/copper valve guides

Ferrea 1+mm intake/exhaust valves

Ferrea dual springs

Ferrea Titanium retainers

Ferrea locks, locators and valve seals

-12AN polished valve covers

-12AN hoses to catch can

PHR catch can

Cooling:

Fluidyne radiator

TRD thermostat

Twins Turbo thermostat adapter

Transmission/Clutch:

Tilton triple carbon clutch

Twins Turbo clutch master cylinder

C’s short shifter

TRD transmission mount

TRD LSD

Custom billet differential cover

Suspension/Wheels:

HKS HiperMax III’s

StopTech Trophy Series BBK

HRE C93 19x9 and 19x11

Toyo Proxy R888’s 265/35/19 and 295/30/19

Interior:

New 1998 complete dash

New 1998 black interior carpet

New 1998 passenger airbag

New 1998 dash panels

New 1998 e-brake

New 1998 glove box

New OEM floor mats

LED AC cluster conversion

LED dash conversion

LED lights throughout interior

TRD 10k tach

Custom Sparco seats

Sparco harness bar

Sparco 3” 4-point belts

Custom shifter boot to match seats

Electronics:

AEM v2 ECU

Defi BF series gauges (boost, oil, fuel)

FJO wideband

Valentine 1 radar detector

Blinder M45 laser jammer

Low beam/fog HID’s

180A alternator

Braille 21lbs carbon fiber battery

Turbo/Intake/Exhaust:

Garrett GTX-4202R w/ 1.15 A/R

PHR 5” intake tube

Full-Race T4 exhaust manifold

2000 degree ceramic coated manifold and turbine housing

TiAL 44mm wastegates x2

TiAL 50mm BOVs x2

Boost Logic T6 FMIC

Custom IC piping

RMR intake manifold

RMR 90mm throttle body

HIKS Ti 4” exhaust

Custom 4” downpipe/midpipe

Custom wastegate dump tubes

-3AN stainless vacuum lines

Fuel:

MVP v2.5 triple fuel pump hanger

Denso fuel pumps x3

-10 fuel lines to rail x2

-6 return line to tank

ID2000 injectors

Weldon 2040 FPR

Aeromotive fuel filter x2

6 gauge feed from battery

Stinger marine 100A breaker

Exterior:

New 1998 head lights

New 1998 tail lights

RMM carbon fiber wing

Wings West front lip

Color matched lower trim

LED lights throughout exterior

The car as it was when I bought it

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/SDC11111.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/SDC11117.JPG

This spring after a new set of HRE's, HM3's and a StopTech BBK.

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/hre_side.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/hre_front.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/hre_rear.jpg

E85 conversion

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/fuel_lines.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/fuel_lines_2.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/relays.jpg

3.4 arriving

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/stroker1.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/stroker2.JPG

Engine build. All new parts, nuts and bolts were used.

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/engine_1.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/engine_2.jpg

RMR manifold back from polishing with RMR 90mm throttle body.

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/rmr.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/rmr_3.jpg

T6 FMIC

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/fmic_front.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/fmic_side.jpg

GTX4202R

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/turbo.jpg

Full Race T4 w/ 2000 degree ceramic coating

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/fullrace_1.jpg

Tilton Triple Carbon

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/tilton_1.jpg

More progress pics to come soon.

Haven't had much time this weekend to work on the car. A few pics:

FMIC installed

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/bumper_1.jpg

Bumper cover on. This core is huge!

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/bumper_2.jpg

May have "Garrett" sanded down. Not sure I am digging it.

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/compressor.jpg

Twins Turbo Tilton master cylinder

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/tilton_3.jpg

I have received multiple PM's asking about the seats. They are custom Sparco's re-covered in black leather with a Lambo style cross-stitch pattern. $2k per seat to duplicate. Contact Ryan @ WOTM if you are interested in having a set made.

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/SDC11118.JPG

Not much has been happening and I have been at a stand still. My head that was supposed to be delivered 8 weeks ago is still not here. I finally confirmation the head will be shipping Wednesday. I wish I would have know this before pulling my engine 10 weeks ago. I guess I'll know for next time.

So, I have actually back-peddled a bit since my last update. The block is now torn down and will be reassembled once I have the head in my hands. I didn't feel comfortable with the engine sitting for all this time. All of the internal components have already been cleaned and are resting in ziplock bags treated with WD-40. The block was sprayed down with WD-40 as a rust inhibitor once the internals were removed. The block will need to be cleaned prior to assembly. Now I will have no doubt that I am starting with a clean/debris-free engine.

More updates to follow in the coming days.

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/status.jpg

Still no head. Tracking shows delivery for Tuesday this week. The builder had a vacuum leak on the #6 valves. It took another week to get that problem corrected. But now the head has actually left the shop. 12 weeks on a 2-3 week project.

Not much progress as I just got back from SORC (Sandhills Open Road Challege) in Arnold, NE. Went as a navigator with a buddy in his Supra and shocked a lot of people. Great event!

Anyways, picked up my new billet diff cover last week. Thanks to Axoman for an awesome piece.

http://axoman.indyhp.com/Pictures/final_diff1.jpg

http://axoman.indyhp.com/Pictures/final_diff2.jpg

http://axoman.indyhp.com/Pictures/final_diff3.jpg

I'll get the cover installed and the short block reassembled tomorrow. Then I'll be ready for my head to arrive on Tuesday.

I finished polishing my custom battery bracket and coolant overflow tank. I installed a Braille B3121 carbon battery. The breaker is a 100A Stinger marine grade set-up for my fuel pumps with 4 gauge wire.

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/braille.jpg

No progress.

The head finally delivered and looked amazing. Eagerly I start assembling the block - I get the head gasket/deck surfaces clean, install the head stud washers, install the head, install the head studs and try to install the 12-point nuts on the 1/2" studs. The nuts do not fit! It turns out the shop did not clearance the topside of the head for the 1/2" hardware. The cast aluminum in-between the head stud and the valve retainer needs to be machined way down for 1/2" studs. Errrr!!!

Yet again, the head is back at the machine shop. I am now at week 13 with the head work - 10 weeks past the original commited completion date.

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/head_1.jpg

Finally, some progress.

So I received the head, which was drilled for 1/2" head studs but did not have the proper clearancing done on the topside for 1/2" hardware. Again, the head went back to the machine shop. I received the head back from the machine shop last Friday. The engine went in on Wednesday night. I have a few small things to wrap up today and the car will be ready for Pang to fab up the intercooler piping, downpipe, midpipe and dump tubes. The engine break-in and tune are scheduled for Thusday. It's going to be close.

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/head_1.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/head_2.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/head_4.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/head_3.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/stand_6.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/stand_2.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/stand_3.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/stand_5.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/stand_4.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/stand_1.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/stand_7.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/stand_8.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/install_1.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/install_2.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/install_5.jpg

I dropped off the car to a buddy today for the intercooler, midpipe, downpipe and dump tube fabrication.

Getting ready to unload. Screw ratching a car onto the trailer. That took 1.5 hours by myself to load the car. I need a winch or a running car!

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/trailer.JPG

$1,400 worth of stainless and aluminum tubing.

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/piping.JPG

The car as is this afternoon.

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/mockup.JPG

Updates:

IC, midpipe, downpipe and dumptubes are done. My buddy did an awesome job. Stainless parts are in Phoenix being ceramic coated. Aluminum parts will be headed to a local polisher this week for some shininess.

Buddy doing his thing.

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/welding.JPG

Beautiful TIG welds.

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/welds_1.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/welds_2.JPG

Intercooler piping

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/comp_out.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/hotside.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/coldside.JPG

Stainless exhaust parts

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/all.JPG

Dumptubes

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/dumptube.JPG

Midpipe

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/midpipe.JPG

Downpipe

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/downpipe.JPG

Im in love with this, bloody hell mate! what a car.

New pics:

My buddy at J&S Polishing knocked out all my intercooler pipes while I waited.

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/jim.JPG

All done.

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/ic_polished.JPG

BOV's mounted.

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/twin.JPG

Crankcase breather setup done. I might end up redo'ing the valve covers though.

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/breather.JPG

The exhaust parts that were supposed to be delivered yesterday from the ceramic coater are stuck at a local FedEx hub. Looks like the parts won't be delivered until Monday. That scratches my plans of starting the car this weekend. Oh well. Engine break-in and tuning Thursday!

She's done!!!

Well, so much for making the local June Toyota meet. This has been such a headache build. But in the end I am glad I was able to take some extra time to finish the car exactly how I wanted. I think the car turned out amazing!

The car is full of fluids and ready to start. I planned on starting the car today for the initial break-in but with all of the changes that have happened since the AEM was last updated I am not feeling too comfortable wagering the amount of money I have into the engine on the current map. So, I will start the car tomorrow with my local tuner present so he can tweak the map as needed to ensure this engine lasts a while. I am going to use the Motoman break-in method. The engine will be making full power in less than 5 miles. I'll take video and post up dyno numbers tomorrow (today actually).

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/done_1.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/done_2.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/done_3.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/done_4.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/done_5.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/done_6.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/done_7.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/done_8.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/done_9.JPG

Dump tubes

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/done_10.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/done_11.JPG

Well, the car doesn't start.

I attempted to start the car this morning and got a "click" from the starter like the battery was dead. So I threw the charger on for a while and received the same "click" when trying to start the car. I thought okay - starter, starter relay or ground. I ran a new chasis ground - "click". Replaced the start relay - "click". So I pulled the starter and took it to the local auto parts store to be tested. The starter passed. I reinstalled the starter and attempted to crank the engine over by hand (with the plugs removed) and the engine wouldn't budge.

So the last time that the engine spun over by hand was after I degreed the cams but before I installed the flywheel, clutch and tranny. A quick call to Ryan Woon got me to where i am now. Ryan said he had heard about a similar situation during Jaime Carter's build. When Don @ Accelerated assembled the car he either used the wrong bolts, or was supplied the wrong bolts, when bolting the flywheel to the crank. So, the incorrect bolts are longer than the correct bolts which causes the bolts to go through the crank and hit the rear main cap. Great!

In Jaime's case the car actually started and chewed up the rear main cap before spinning a bearing. Luckily, I hope, my car has not budged from TDC since installing the flywheel. So once I get the tranny, clutch and flywheel bolts off I'll make the call on if I need to pull the engine again to inspect the #7 main cap.

Now the bolts, Tilton users usually use OEM automatic transmission vs 6-speed bolts since the automatic bolts are shorter. Based on info I read online I opted for a set of ARP vs OEM flywheel bolts - dumb move. I ordered a set of "ARP automatic flywheel bolts" from Joe @ PHR. Apparently what I was sent was not what I ordered.

Very frustrated to say the least. I'll post back with more info once I get the flywheel off.

Good news! Revolutions let me bring the car down and put the car on a lift Friday. A buddy and I yanked the tranny and found the bolts were in contact with the block but not with the rear main cap. Whew! I installed new hardware then reinstalled the flywheel and clutch. We got the engine broke in after fighting some initial start-up issues on the AEM with the help of my tuner and the Revolutions crew.

So onto yesterday, the car made 855RWHP uncorrected @ 24 psi - basically wastegate springs only. We fought grounding/ignition problems all day and couldn't go above 24 psi without breaking up. The setup has shocked everyone, including me. The way the power comes on is amazing. The car should have no problem breaking the 1k RWHP mark rather easily. I am thinking 1100RWHP is a realistic goal. Keep in mind that number is on a Dyno Dynamics (aka 'Heartbreaker') dyno.

I need to iron out some electrical bugs before the next dyno session. But overall the car is running amazing, spools insanely early and sounds like a fighter jet taking off.

I'll post some real numbers next week once I dyno again.

I'll see if I can get some video uploaded shortly. Here is the dyno sheet.

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremy.hepburn/dyno.jpg

Sorry for the lack of updates. I've been to the dyno twice and still can't find out what the hell is causing my miss. I upgraded all of the OEM grounds to either 0 gauge or 4 gauge wire. I sanded down the block, frame, tranny, etc. where the grounding points meet the various grounding locations. Installed new battery terminals. Installed a new alternator. Swapped coil packs, DLI and igniter. I can't figure this out. Cody Phillips and Axoman redid my map a few times just to be sure nothing was overlooked and the problem continues. Tomorrow I am swapping out my existing AEM v2 for a local buddies v2. Hopefully that will solve the problem. If not, I'll run a leakdown test and check valve lash. It's getting frustrating now!

Last weekend we got 3 clean runs before attempting to turn up the boost. The best run at 22 psi put down 878RWHP at a 1.15 c/f on the Dyno Dynamics. After turning up the boost the car started missing again. We turned boost back down and the car continued to miss the rest of the evening no matter what we tried. I've got some ideas from Axoman, Cody and Ryan which I am going to try this week. Hopefully next weekend I'll make some real power!

wow!

Stunner. Plenty left in that!

One of my most favorite Supras ever!!! Great build and stunning result! Gotta love white hardtop with facelift interior

That is one beautiful Supra you have there

That is very very nice.

Stunning!

Can't even describe how awesome this is... Wish i had the resources to own\build something like this