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Changing Lips on a 3 piece wheel


Samurai 20V
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Guys,

 

Some idiot has scratched on of my wheels... It was definitely not my doing, i would have known if I curbed it.. It is not curbing damage either, it looks more scratched then ground against a curb.. The damage does not look very noticeable but I know its there.. I will post up some pics later..

 

I will be taking the wheels off the car, just gonna roll with the stockers for now..

 

I am gonna find out if I can buy a spare set of lips for all the wheels, is there any rocket science in changing the lips?

 

Its just the bolts holding them together right? Do I need any special tools?

 

Is there a general torque for the bolts?

 

If nothing special I reckon I can do it myself.

 

Also, I have 9J Fronts and 10J rears, I want to fit wider tyres to protect the lips a bit..

 

I reckon 285's should cover the RR, will 245 be okay for the front? Car is going for some bodywork, I can get the arches rolled/trimmed at the same time..

 

Thks..

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Nothing that special about it bud. They will need sealed though so it isn't just bolts. No special tools required, just some decent sealer something to scrape the old sealer with and patience.

 

20-25lbs should do nicely for the bolts.

 

Thks.. Any recommendations on the sealer, normal clear silicone should be ok?

 

More damage to your wheels? People must be really jealous of them!

 

Yeah, I am getting tired of this, they are only 3 months old...

 

A drip of threadlock on the nuts when you put them back together.

 

 

What wheels do you have ? some split rims are welded together, best to get the tyre off and check first.

 

SSR Professor MS1..

 

Thks for the tip, will have to check them out..

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20-25lbs should do nicely for the bolts.

 

I'd be inclined to ask how many bolts there are first.

 

Best check with the manufacturer TBH - going to tight could eventually cause the flange at the join between the two parts to crack - you really don't want your wheels to start flinging apart at speed! (which could also happen if you don't do them up tight enough)

 

Also what sort of fasteners do they have? Should the be replaced before reassembling?

 

I've had split rims with 70 (yes - seventy!) bolts per wheel - small dome-capped allen key bolts with nylock nuts on the back. These only required to be tightened up to something like 10lbs/ft and I had to replace all the nuts for new (stainless) nylock nuts for obvious reasons. (20 - 25lbs/ft would probably have screwed these wheels completely) Whilst I was at it, I also replaced all the bolts to be on the safe side as they were quite small and had been on there a couple of years. When putting them together, make sure you do actually use a torque wrench to make sure they are tightened nice and evenly all the way round.

 

If my wheels had been like some others I've had with only about 12 bolts per wheel, then the bolts would be larger and require a vastly different amount of torque to make sure they stayed in place.

 

IMHO, the OP needs to show us a pic of the wheels or give more info before a reliable answer can be given.

 

In any case, getting the info from the manufacturer (if possible) is always the best way to go.

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I'd be inclined to ask how many bolts there are first.

 

Best check with the manufacturer TBH - going to tight could eventually cause the flange at the join between the two parts to crack - you really don't want your wheels to start flinging apart at speed! (which could also happen if you don't do them up tight enough)

 

Also what sort of fasteners do they have? Should the be replaced before reassembling?

 

I've had split rims with 70 (yes - seventy!) bolts per wheel - small dome-capped allen key bolts with nylock nuts on the back. These only required to be tightened up to something like 10lbs/ft and I had to replace all the nuts for new (stainless) nylock nuts for obvious reasons. (20 - 25lbs/ft would probably have screwed these wheels completely) Whilst I was at it, I also replaced all the bolts to be on the safe side as they were quite small and had been on there a couple of years. When putting them together, make sure you do actually use a torque wrench to make sure they are tightened nice and evenly all the way round.

 

If my wheels had been like some others I've had with only about 12 bolts per wheel, then the bolts would be larger and require a vastly different amount of torque to make sure they stayed in place.

 

IMHO, the OP needs to show us a pic of the wheels or give more info before a reliable answer can be given.

 

In any case, getting the info from the manufacturer (if possible) is always the best way to go.

 

Work meister s1 wheels IIRC. Will be around 30-40 bolts, regular size rather than small or large.

 

20lbs wouldn't worry me in the slightest but it never hurts to contact the manufacturer :)

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Hey S dogg..

 

Very valid points, thanks for your input..

 

The wheels are only 3 months old, the lips have been changed once already (garage ground the wheels on the ramp)... The manufacturer had done that job..

 

The bolts were replaced as well, they are all new.. I will contact the manufacturer to be sure abt the specs..

 

Here is a pic of the wheels (not the damaged one)..

 

image

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Beautiful looking wheels.

 

Scott is I'm sure in the right ballpark with 20lbs/ft. If you've had contact with the manufacturer already then it shouldn't take much to have them confirm this.

 

Are those outer rims bare metal? Would it be worth seeing how much of the damage can be polished out? Mine were like this and I kerbed one once, but was able to use 1000 grit sandpaper , then 1200 grit to take almost all of the visible damage out, then used some metal polish to finish the job off. Even I had to search for where the damage had been after that!

 

Obviously I don't know how bad your damage is, but if it's not too terrible this might be worth a try - you're only going to replace it anyway, so not harm done if you mess it up, eh?

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Beautiful looking wheels.

 

Scott is I'm sure in the right ballpark with 20lbs/ft. If you've had contact with the manufacturer already then it shouldn't take much to have them confirm this.

 

Are those outer rims bare metal? Would it be worth seeing how much of the damage can be polished out? Mine were like this and I kerbed one once, but was able to use 1000 grit sandpaper , then 1200 grit to take almost all of the visible damage out, then used some metal polish to finish the job off. Even I had to search for where the damage had been after that!

 

Obviously I don't know how bad your damage is, but if it's not too terrible this might be worth a try - you're only going to replace it anyway, so not harm done if you mess it up, eh?

 

Thanks mate...

 

I will email them tonight to see what they say...

 

The lips are anodized aluminium...Dont think that can be polished out?

 

It is very small damage, but I cant help being pissed off about it, seeing as the wheels are new..

 

Will only get a chance to take some pics in the weekend, its dark when I get home from work..

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