Chris Wilson suspension fitted

Hurrah! I have finally removed my old Ohlins suspension and fitted CW's custom valved Bilsteins. The Ohlins were ludicrously oversprung for the state of the roads these days (and I'm too old now haha), and I think it was affected handling in general with a crashy ride and no squat for acceleration hook up. I've only gone round the block in it as I'm now on nightshifts, but it's pretty bumpy round my area and it already feels actually enjoyable to drive

I need to thank Soop Dogg for coming over and helping me swap the fronts, his know-how with the delicate art of ball joint separation was invaluable Also thanks to CW for one of his posts describing how to clean up and undo the ARB drop links without rounding off anything, worked a treat

See attached pic for a comparison of new shinyness versus the Ohlins, and have a jolly good laugh at the springs. While they look like they have been at the bottom of the sea for a couple of years, they are actually still perfectly functional (although new bottom end rubber bushes would be a good idea). If any drifter on a budget wants them, PM me

I should be able to have a proper test at the weekend when I'm in early in the morning on dayshifts

-Ian

Hurrah! I have finally removed my old Ohlins suspension and fitted CW's custom valved Bilsteins. The Ohlins were ludicrously oversprung for the state of the roads these days (and I'm too old now haha), and I think it was affected handling in general with a crashy ride and no squat for acceleration hook up. I've only gone round the block in it as I'm now on nightshifts, but it's pretty bumpy round my area and it already feels actually enjoyable to drive

 

I need to thank Soop Dogg for coming over and helping me swap the fronts, his know-how with the delicate art of ball joint separation was invaluable Also thanks to CW for one of his posts describing how to clean up and undo the ARB drop links without rounding off anything, worked a treat See attached pic for a comparison of new shinyness versus the Ohlins, and have a jolly good laugh at the springs. While they look like they have been at the bottom of the sea for a couple of years, they are actually still perfectly functional (although new bottom end rubber bushes would be a good idea). If any drifter on a budget wants them, PM me

 

I should be able to have a proper test at the weekend when I'm in early in the morning on dayshifts

 

-Ian

Care to share Ian, as I'm about to change my front shocks and this particular aspect looks a PITA having looked at tDR's "how to" several times.

I have even bought a pair of long nosed mole grips in anticipation of issues with the ARB link

Thanks.

Care to share Ian, as I'm about to change my front shocks and this particular aspect looks a PITA having looked at tDR's "how to" several times.

I have even bought a pair of long nosed mole grips in anticipation of issues with the ARB link

Thanks.

Long nose mole grips and an impact gun... job done

Care to share Ian, as I'm about to change my front shocks and this particular aspect looks a PITA having looked at tDR's "how to" several times.

I have even bought a pair of long nosed mole grips in anticipation of issues with the ARB link

Thanks.

I've done a few front shocks now and have left the ARB links well alone and just taken the top wishbone bolt out to give the clearance..........it takes a little while to undo all the plastic front arch cover bolts and its a little fiddly to loosen the screen washer bottle to give the bolt room to be removed but I find this method easier......

Heat the nuts up, they are Loctited by the factory. Use a proper quality, unworn Allen key, and be sure the female hex is cleaned out fully of any rust or debris. Use WD40 on the wire brushed threads after it cools. I get them hot quickly with a welding torch so as not to heat up the joint too much if it's being re-used.

I used one of those little gas can blowlamps on mine, after using a wire brush drill attachment to clean up the threads and the nut facings. Heated it up until I saw a bit of smoke coming off the paint I scraped out the allen key hole with a screwdriver and used a good flat allen key as Chris says. WD40'd the lot and left it a while to soak in. Then I cracked the nut off the drop link itself first using a ring spanner on its own, and only after that stuck the allen key in. It came off pretty easily with no drama. I'm now a big fan of wire brushing rusty nuts and bolts to clean them up - the threads and the flats. It works on the other suspension bolts I had to undo to get the suspension swapped

Now I've driven it more, the CW suspension is fantastic by the way. It feels way more connected with the road and gives me more confidence to chuck it around a bit It needs a realignment as it's tramlining a bit and feels a bit odd on turn-in (probably due to sitting higher and thus having more neutral camber) and yet it still feels better to drive

What ball joints were you parting to fit these?

Upper front are the only ones you have to separate.

Oh ok, I didn't bother splitting the BJs - just took the big bolt out and swung the arm around out of the way to save doing any balljoint work.

I am glad you like it Ian, I know it's an expensive upgrade, but 99% of people seem to think it;s a very good fast road / mild track day set up that retains comfort and good wet road grip when twinned with sensible wheels and tyres. Thanks for the feedback.