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I want to service my '93 Jap Spec TT


RyanSteel
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Hey people. I want to service my Toyota Supra TT '93. I am on my way to to BPU on it aswell. Any suggestions on the following what to use?

 

Gearbox oil? Diff oil? Engine oil? Spark plugs? Fuel Filter? Oil Filter? Part numbers would be apreciated becuase I have to order the parts from the states. Its an import & I am currently living in South Africa........

 

Thanks

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See the Forum FAQ section - Spark Plugs, Oil & Fluids

 

If you are changing the plugs I'd also fit new coil pack connectors at the same time - Coil Pack Connectors

 

When you change the plugs you will probably also need 2 new breather pipes as these are usually brittle and tear - can someone provide part numbers?

 

I'd also fit a new oxygen sensor if it hasn't been changed for a few years - 89465-19635 Toyota Oxygen Sensor - J-spec TT

 

23300-49195 Toyota Fuel Filter

 

Also check belts, suspension, brakes, etc. full detail in the Toyota Service Repair Manual

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Other bits you may need if you're taking off the cam cover to do the plugs etc:

 

Coil pack clip is 90980-11246 and you need 6

Cam cover gasket (inlet): 11213-46020

Cam cover gasket (exhaust): 11214-46011

Cam cover bolts 90105-06166 (you need 12)

Cam cover nuts 90179-06288 (you need 4)

Cam cover washer 90210-07001 (you need 16)

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No - but as a safety net (particularly the breather pipes and coil pack clips) it's a good idea. The breather pipes and clips are the most likely to be either worn, cracked, split or broken. The gaskets you'll need anyway. The rest is more precaution than anything as I wouldn't want to get everything apart and then find bits needed! I've ordered this lot (need the gaskets as one of mine has a minute leak) and as I'm doing plugs this time around as well I felt it prudent to get all of these to be safe. Always good as spares if not or to send to fellow members if they get stuck!

 

In terms of Spark Plugs, I've gone for the NGK BKR6EIX (Iridium) ones (use http://www.sparkplugs.co.uk)

Oil filter: OEM is OK, I've ordered a TRD one this time for nothing more than fun!

Fuel filter: OEM Toyota is fine

Edited by ellis (see edit history)
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@Ellis, can you check this link & see if this plug would work as well please? As this is a colder plug for BPU.

http://www.importparts.co.za/catalog/p29041/Denso-Iridium-Spark-Plug-TOYOTA-SUPRA-95-95-(1-Step-Colder)/product_info.html

 

Hi mate - I'm not sure on those. I used to fit colder plugs on my BPU UK Spec and I think most BPU cars run colder plugs. I don't think you need these for a stock TT. Might be worth waiting for another member to confirm though.

 

This is handy:

Q. Why are there different heat ranges? Which one should I use?

A. Part of your spark plug’s responsibilities, in addition to firing a spark, is to remove heat from the combustion chamber. This is accomplished by channelling the heat through the insulator material and metal housing. From there, the heat is transferred to the cylinder head where the engine cooling system can go to work. A spark plug’s heat range is its ability to dissipate heat. The colder the plug, the more heat it can channel out of the combustion chamber. In a performance application, colder heat ranges may be necessary to handle the extreme temperatures brought on by higher compression ratios, forced induction, and high RPM’s. While colder plugs may seem to be the way to go, please remember that the spark plug must achieve its self-cleaning temperature where it can burn off fuel and carbon deposits. Otherwise, the plug could foul out where it is prone to misfiring and poor acceleration. A plug that is too hot can overheat, also causing power loss, detonation, pre-ignition, and possible engine damage. A good, general rule of thumb is to start with the factory recommended heat range. For every 75 to 100 hp you add to your engine, you may go to the next colder step.

 

NGK and Denso use different heat range grading systems they are;

NGK Heat Grade Denso Equivalent

5 16

6 20

7 22

8 24

9 27

10 31

Edited by ellis (see edit history)
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Other bits you may need if you're taking off the cam cover to do the plugs etc:

 

You dont need to remove the cam covers to change the plugs :)

 

I would replace the cam cover seals though as they will be on the verge of leaking unless already changed, replace the washers as well as they have rubber seals on them but no need to replace the nuts and bolts.

 

Also be carefull not to overtighten them as the covers can crack very easily around the securing holes

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You dont need to remove the cam covers to change the plugs :)

 

I would replace the cam cover seals though as they will be on the verge of leaking unless already changed, replace the washers as well as they have rubber seals on them but no need to replace the nuts and bolts.

 

Also be carefull not to overtighten them as the covers can crack very easily around the securing holes

 

Cheers mate - knew someone with more knowledge than me would be along any minute!

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Mine is stock, but I am about to do an exhaust & chip etc. But thank you again. Lets wait & see what others have to say about this topic. This is some important information you posted here!

 

If you want more power you go BPU, chips are a waste of time and money.

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The thing is I need to run an after market piggy bag ECU to tune the fuel emissions etc. Here in South Africa you only get 95 unleaded & not Super Unleaded. We are very limited with our fuel. If I change the exhaust, the car would lean out & needs to be tuned. :)

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Okay thats fair enough, if you change the exhaust and decat it then you will need to fit a restrictor ring to hold the boost down or it will overboost and potentially kill your j spec turbo's, you'll also need a fuel cut device and to raise the boost a boost controller, you'll also need to have a close look at the intercooler because if its the original one on the car it'll more than likely need replacing.

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@Dnk I appreciate all the info as I am new into this 2JZ-GTE motor. Use to have a schooped up Scooby. :) I understand the principle of the fuel cut device & the boost controller. I can always up the boost by tuning my piggy bag ECU's parameters. The part which I don't understand is, why do I need a restrictor ring if I run a boost controller? The boost will be regulated by the solenoid valve & the wastegates wouldn't cause over boost? Or am i misunderstanding it? :(

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I want to run the following:

 

HKS Drager Exhaust 95mm diameter

HKS Downpipe

Dastek Unichip

Turbosmart TS-0303-1002 Fuel Cut Defender

Walbro 255 Fuel pump

"Already have Cold air induction with custom made atmospheric BOV"

Denso IK22d5 spark plugs

Not sure about the boost controller yet :(

 

What you think? :)

Edited by RyanSteel (see edit history)
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I want to run the following:

 

HKS Drager Exhaust 95mm diameter

HKS Downpipe

Dastek Unichip

Turbosmart TS-0303-1002 Fuel Cut Defender

Walbro 255 Fuel pump

"Already have Cold air induction with custom made atmospheric BOV"

Denso IK22d5 spark plugs

Not sure about the boost controller yet

 

What you think?

 

But why do I need to have a restrictor ring in my exhaust if I run a boost controller?

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Hello RyanSteel..

 

I am a fellow South African (Durbanite) living in Japan.. I own a Jap spec TT as well, just picked it up a few months back...

 

About your list:

 

The restrictor keeps the boost in check because the OEM wastegate is too small to control the boost at BPU levels. Do a search, there are alot of threads about it. Also you need a 1st decat, the HKS only make a 2nd decat.

 

Who will fit the Unichip? I have no faith in SA tuners due to past experience, I would recommend keeping the stock ecu..

I bought a AEM water meth kit for my car to solve the fuel issue, gonna run the car on that for low boost and race fuel for high boost..

Good idea to fit an AFR gauge as well, it is a good tool for keeping an eye on whats going on in the car...

 

 

BTW, where are you from and how did you get the car into the country?

Edited by Samurai 20V (see edit history)
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I want to run the following:

 

HKS Drager Exhaust 95mm diameter

HKS Downpipe

Dastek Unichip

Turbosmart TS-0303-1002 Fuel Cut Defender

Walbro 255 Fuel pump

"Already have Cold air induction with custom made atmospheric BOV"

Denso IK22d5 spark plugs

Not sure about the boost controller yet

 

What you think?

 

But why do I need to have a restrictor ring in my exhaust if I run a boost controller?

 

Have a read of the "BPU" page and that'll tell you why you need a restrictor ring. The boost controller can only turn the boost up and not lower it so you need a restriction in the exhaust to stop the boost getting too high, then you can use the boost controller to turn the boost up to 1.2 bar.

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Hey Samurai, we import cars, we apply for a permit & then with all the legal paper work etc etc, we bring in the cars to South Africa. My Toyota Supra is now 100% legal on SA roads. Believe me, there are very few SA tuners who are good. I am from Caledon (about 1 hours drive away from Cape Town) There is this one guy from Cape Town, Herman Monke. He is from Mace Performance. He is very very good. He would be doing the splicing of the piggy bag system on my Supra. I am an Auto Electrician, I can also do it. But seeing that I do not have enough tuning experience & lack some knowledge, I leave it to him, because he would be my tuner. The Dastek chip is easily tuneable & very user friendly. I can not afford AEM. he he :(

I am not understanding this :(. Why fit a full decat exhaust & then restrict it with another restrictor ring afterwards? :(.......Can't I just run a boost controller with a proper fuel cut defender? :)

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Hey Samurai, we import cars, we apply for a permit & then with all the legal paper work etc etc, we bring in the cars to South Africa. My Toyota Supra is now 100% legal on SA roads. Believe me, there are very few SA tuners who are good. I am from Caledon (about 1 hours drive away from Cape Town) There is this one guy from Cape Town, Herman Monke. He is from Mace Performance. He is very very good. He would be doing the splicing of the piggy bag system on my Supra. I am an Auto Electrician, I can also do it. But seeing that I do not have enough tuning experience & lack some knowledge, I leave it to him, because he would be my tuner. The Dastek chip is easily tuneable & very user friendly. I can not afford AEM. he he :(

I am not understanding this :(. Why fit a full decat exhaust & then restrict it with another restrictor ring afterwards? :(.......Can't I just run a boost controller with a proper fuel cut defender? :)

 

Ok man, as long as its legal its cool. I will be bringing mine back to SA next year June..

I am not too experienced with the Dastek, but if you got a good guy to do the tuning then you ok..

 

Stock exhaust is too restrictive to pick up the boost with sending the EGT too high, so you have to decat it.. But because wastegate is small, the boost will run past 1.2bar, the accepted safe limit for the OEM turbos... The restrictor adds enough restriction to keep the boost in check, with out increasing the EGT drastically..

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