Diff cooler on jspec?

Is it possible with relative ease? I'm thinking on a jspec with the factory installed torsen.

If possible which parts would be needed?

You would most likely have to drill holes for the oil feed to the cooler as I don't think they will be present. You could locate it in the OEM position but don't know if the fixing holes will be there or not. It's not like the big brakes, active spoiler etc which were options on the jspec, the diff cooler was never an option. You may need some extra UK bits or have them custom made. Why do you want one? I was led to believe they were overkill unless you took it on the track.

A replica factory install using new parts will be far dearer than something potentially better using none original stuff. There should be plenty of Skyline pumps around, some fittings and hose and a small cooler carefully located in the air flow shouldn't cost a fortune. You can manually switch it to keep it simple, or use a temp switch in the diff casing. The returned, cool oil should be directed onto the ring gear for maximum effect.

But I would say do you need one? Put some Thermax strips on the diff case and see how hot it's getting.

http://www.tmchallcrest.com/industrial.php?switch=TMC_Hallcrest&medical_product=68&sublvl_id=5&subcat_id=7

Great idea, Chris. I will see if I can get some (wonder where) to check for my trip to the ring next week. Both the North Loop and the Grand Prix track is open. Hooray!

- but yeah, it was just if it was a really easy fit (used cooler and a few lines to existing holes), it would be a nice thing to have.

What would I be looking for as a maximum safe temp?

Just an innocent query, why did the UK/USA and Euro models have the diff cooler anyway? why were the JDM models excluded? anyone know?

Just an innocent query, why did the UK/USA and Euro models have the diff cooler anyway? why were the JDM models excluded? anyone know?

I would say same reason as the smaller brakes, engine oil cooler, auto trans cooler and so on. Generally build for lower top speeds. An Euro model might spend most of its miles @ 120 mph on the autobahn

I would say same reason as the smaller brakes, engine oil cooler, auto trans cooler and so on. Generally build for lower top speeds. An Euro model might spend most of its miles @ 120 mph on the autobahn

I think its simpler than that, purely down to cost. All the extra's made the Supra 48K !!! I don't think they would have sold half the Supra's in Japan if they had all the extras on.

A replica factory install using new parts will be far dearer than something potentially better using none original stuff. There should be plenty of Skyline pumps around, some fittings and hose and a small cooler carefully located in the air flow shouldn't cost a fortune. You can manually switch it to keep it simple, or use a temp switch in the diff casing. The returned, cool oil should be directed onto the ring gear for maximum effect.

 

But I would say do you need one? Put some Thermax strips on the diff case and see how hot it's getting.

 

http://www.tmchallcrest.com/industrial.php?switch=TMC_Hallcrest&medical_product=68&sublvl_id=5&subcat_id=7

Got a measure of aprox 120c on track and around 100c max on motorway. Does that sound ok, or am I in a danger zone? Track sessions will only be a max of 10-20 minutes though.

A decent diff oil should stand that, I personally wouldn't bother unless the car becomes a track only machine.

Thanks, Chris. That sounds reasonable. It was a really good idea regarding the temp strips. People are now buying the left over from me, as they were rather expensive

Power steering reservoir and gearbox casing are good places to have a temperature strip, too

Good to know, I'll place a couple. What temps are max there? Gearbox I'm guessing same as diff or engineoil but the PS?

Good to know, I'll place a couple. What temps are max there? Gearbox I'm guessing same as diff or engine oil but the PS?

As far as the power steering is concerned, I found this in a Toyota technical training document (http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/AT06.pdf) when searching for information on ideal ATF temperatures:

As a rule of thumb, transmission fluid should last 100,000 miles if the operating temperature remains no higher than 175°F (80°C). For every 20 degrees of temperature increase, the projected service life of the fluid is cut in half. For example, if operating temperature is allowed to remain at 195°F (90°C), the service life of the fluid would be 50,000 miles.

and this on a Honda forum:

I even went so far as to ask Road and Track that very question and they posted a response in their Jan (2006) edition (technical correspondence) that I have included below.

Q:

What is the optimal temperature for automatic transmission fluid? I have seen recommendations that range from "the cooler the better" to "it should be in the range of 160-180 degrees Fahrenheit (71-82 C)". I have installed an additional ATF cooler on my 2004 Honda Odyssey to allow me the capability to tow reasonable loads. To prevent over cooling and ensure fast warm-ups, I then added a remote oil thermostat that will bypass the additional cooler if the fluid temp is below 180 (82 C).

I still run the ATF through the factory cooler in the radiator first. So, was this the way to go or should I skip the thermostat and allow the transmission fluid to be as cool as possible?

A:

We found it difficult to find an authority who would state an absolute figure regarding the ideal ATF temperature, but considering many hard-working automatic transmissions see fluid temps up to the 240-degree (115 C) range, 180 degrees F (82 C) is a marked improvement. Mineral oils degrade with high heat; 250 F (121 C) is death for most and 235 F (112) is hard on them, so that should give an idea of what to avoid as an upper limit.

On the other hand, some temperature is needed to provide the proper flow characteristics. We'd say 160 F (71 C) sounds a bit cool, 180 F (82 C) sounds nearly ideal and 215 F (102 C) while towing in the summer would not make us worry.

Given your winter conditions in Toronto, a rapid warm-up is desirable, and thus the thermostat provides a genuine benefit, and removing the thermostat would not materially lower the ATF's temperature when it counted - summertime towing - as the water-to-oil cooler in the radiator will determine the system's lowest operating temperature and the oil-to-air cooler will determine the upper limit.

In fact, the way you've configured your system appears ideal, and is identical to endurance engine oil cooling systems in road racers and heavy equipment. We would make no changes.

Thanks, that kind of makes sense. However, it must be dependant on what kind of fluid you run.

I'm 6 spd manual, running BMW LP2 fluid (essentially the same as V160 as far as our Fluid FAQ says). I don't know if it is synthetic or mineral, but as it is the stuff BMW uses today, it must be a synthetic, right?

an old thread i no however what is the best diff fluid to keep temps down? anyone have any makes they use?