TTRickeh Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 I haven't had audio in the Supe for well over a year as i'd been buying/waiting to install all the bits. Got a bit tired of it, decided to get it all in, and took a few photos along the way. The messy beginning... Needed power cable so ordered some 4 guage. Turns out I didn't have quite enough, and had planned to relocate the battery behind the passenger seat, but having tall mates and lack of fabbing my own bracket skills I ended up not bothering. So anyway I had plenty of very flexible 0 guage wire. The amps I bought some audio carpet and some foam, used glue spray adhesive to stick them together and made an MDF base for the amps to screw onto. Wiring it all in... 4 guage earth cables Earthed either side of the recess for the back seats after sanding down to the metal for a good connection. Layed the carpet and foam down, started to tuck the edges under the side panels and screwing them into place. Also trimmed the front centre section foam out because it stuck up a bit too high. Had to get a DIN to ISO aerial adapter for the H/U which I got from Maplin for a few quid. Wired up the front speakers and used a little sealant round the edges so that air couldn't sneak past and distort the sound Engine bay wiring. Fused close to the positive battery terminal. Total fuse amps of both amplifiers were 80A so bought an 80A mega fuse & holder. I trimmed the side of the battery tray so I could screw the fuse down there. Had to remove the two screws that came with the positive battery terminal and cut up two bolts of the same thread so that they were a little bit longer and held the 0 guage cable in place. Sub & box Painted the lockys96 sub box I got from here matt black to match the sub and the match came out pretty much perfect I originally made a wooden piece to keep the box steady, and was going to strap it down... but I decided it'd be easier (although not lighter) to just chuck the top half of the back seats in since that's what the box was designed for. Right enough it holds it firm and is going no where. I originally had an Alpine Type R 10'' sub but it was far too deep so I had to order a different one. Test fit inside the box... Snazzy little banana clips to plug into the sub and connection on the back of the box Picture of the sub all painted up and ready to go in A few final pics, equipment specs & thoughts I bought new speaker grills but the speakers don't sit quite central so i'm going to have to jig them about a bit or mount them slightly differently so I can get them on, although i'll probably pop the stock ones back on for now as I can't be bothered. Impressions are that it sounds great. I'd disconnected part of the lead going into the head unit so the stock tweeters are receiving no power. I wanted to go for SQ rather than SPL. With that in mind I was concerned the Alpine Type R comps weren't the best choice, and if I had to do it all again i'd go for something from Focal or Rainbow, but once I fired it up today I was happy with the sound so it's not something that will be in the back of my mind like I thought it would. The sub could be a little punchier. I've got the bass turned up on the H/U but could do with a bit more of a kick. I'm going to dial in a bit of bass boost on the amp and see if that helps. Either way, the sub is only running around 300W RMS in a sealed enclosure so i'm not that surprised. It looks a little bit Blue Peter but I'm just glad to have some sound back in the Supe. I need it now that i've got the stock exhaust on! Going to get a Tanabe Touring one when funds allow. I might make up some carpeted covers to go over the wiring so that there's only the bare minimum visible but it'll do for now. I also had a new steering wheel & airbag to put on but the wheel is taking ages to come from the seller on eBay so the pics of that will be for another day. Equipment specs Alpine W202R double din H/U Alpine Type R 6.5'' Components with custom speaker brackets rated to 110W RMS @ 4 ohm Harmon Kardon 2 Channel Amp gives 110W RMS per channel @ 4ohm JL Audio 10W3v3-4 sub rated to 500W RMS @ 4ohm (Although JL says 300W RMS is 'optimum') Kenwood Mono KAC-8104D Amp gives 300W RMS @ 4ohm Plus plenty of wiring and accessories... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcAB10 Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 finally got this done! your rear has been stripped for yomks looks great though, i love those stealthy sub boxes, very nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TTRickeh Posted March 11, 2011 Author Share Posted March 11, 2011 your rear has been stripped for yomks That's what she said Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 Nice install, never seen anyone use garden hose for cable before:p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Havard Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 Very nice..!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TTRickeh Posted April 15, 2011 Author Share Posted April 15, 2011 I managed to get the bass tuned up better, turns out the gain was a little high on the door speakers so were making the sub sound comparatively quiet for any given volume. Anyway I found this out after i'd bought another amp from someone, this one has more do da's on it and good for a lot more power so i'll keep it and sell the other. Doesn't have an internal fuse afaik so i've had to midi fuse it just after the distribution block with the recommended 50A. The main fuse is still 80A, i'll just leave it and if it blows i'll get 90A which the system now should be fused at. Sounds fantastic now, very happy. Pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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