Undertray trouble

My undertray is currently attached with 3 random bolts and a cable tie and has been like that for ages and has been fine. I now have axel stands and want to fix it....easy...right?

Problem is the reason there are no other bolts there is because all the heads have popped off and the rest of the screw/bolt is still in the hole.

What are my chances of being able to drill them out and simply screw in new bolts? Also, anyone know the size of bolt that will be needed?

I am talking about the engine undertray not the active spoiler one.

If you are talking about the front row of undertray bolts that are screwed to the metal frame, i just drilled them out then [re drilled and tapped the holes to a bigger size].Try and drill one out with a smaller drill and see how you get on.

I don't know what they screw into, guessing it is a frame of some kind. Will get under there this weekend and find out.

What about an easy out?

drill & use helicoils, everything you need in one box....

Drill straight through the middle of the snapped bolt with an 1/8 th part drill, then a sharp 3/16. If you get it dead centre the bigger drill should remove the remains of the bolt without damaging the thread in the trapped nut it goes into. Iirc it is 10mm headed bolts that hold the guard on. Easy peasy

So you're struggling with the #2 engine cover - the big one further back, which often needs to be removed for oil changes and stuff - there are 2 different types of bolts used for the front and back which screw into captive nuts on the frame; they also use self tapping screws for the sides, which screw into plastic chimney nuts (clip on nuts). You can buy the whole lot from Toyota for a few quid - recommended, but only if you can extract the sheared bolts, which will be a pig of a job if they've been there a while.

What about an easy out?

What is an easy out?

What is an easy out?

It's a reverse tap type thing (left handed cutter). If the bolt is a 6mm thread you would use a 3mm drill to bore out the centre of the bolt. You then use an easy out to tap down the centre of the bolt, when it bottoms out simply keep turning till it bites in and then you can unscrew the bolt.

That's how we remove sheared flush studs and bolts etc in work. Shelling them out is the last resort as it can get a little hairy. Oversizing them is easy enough, as is helicoiling them, but certain applications don't allow this.

Edit: this is one..

brilliant. ordering one now

I hate the engine under tray. I have gone through 2 now. Luckily both were second hand as they are approx £250 new from Mr T. Regardless of how well secured they are on my car, they tear off at speed.

As part of my engine build I have been looking into having one made from sheet aluminium. That should stop it falling off and be better protection to the sump.

Scott, where did you find that tool? Everywhere I look I find the easy out bits but no handle.

We call it a dwang. Not sure of its technical name, a tap handle maybe?

Have you tried looking for easy out extraction kits? I had a quick google there and one came with everything you need. Looked like cheap crap though but might give you an idea of what you are after.

I bought a similar thing from machine mart:

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht123-screw-extractor-wrench-set

As part of my engine build I have been looking into having one made from sheet aluminium. That should stop it falling off and be better protection to the sump.

I've got one being made right now by a neighbour who happens to own a metal fabrication workshop. I'll see how it turns out and see if the chap wants to make a few quid with a group buy.

I've got one being made right now by a neighbour who happens to own a metal fabrication workshop. I'll see how it turns out and see if the chap wants to make a few quid with a group buy.

Very interested in this. Let me know how it goes. Can't believe no one makes these already. PM me with details if you like

Are undertrays expensive? I am guessing yes. Might get a new one if they are not though.

I checked about a year or so ago and they were £255 inc VAT. I think thats very expensive for a piece of plastic under a car.

I've got one being made right now by a neighbour who happens to own a metal fabrication workshop. I'll see how it turns out and see if the chap wants to make a few quid with a group buy.

I might be interested in a group buy as well if I could mod it to fit an active lip. I was thinking about trying to make one myself in work as I have access to a plate metal shop but I dont have the time at the moment

Be careful with that tool. I have used it on a brake caliper for my bike.. the bleed nipples snapped clean off. So used that tool. Drilled the hole as you should started to tighten that tool into it and bang.. its snaps off. it happened on both of them. (2 different size bleed nipples)

Someone told me about Spark eroding. Will try that on it.

Using that handle is useful. If not, just use an adjustable wrench and take it slowly to start off with to get it straight.

It's a reverse tap type thing (left handed cutter). If the bolt is a 6mm thread you would use a 3mm drill to bore out the centre of the bolt. You then use an easy out to tap down the centre of the bolt, when it bottoms out simply keep turning till it bites in and then you can unscrew the bolt.

 

That's how we remove sheared flush studs and bolts etc in work. Shelling them out is the last resort as it can get a little hairy. Oversizing them is easy enough, as is helicoiling them, but certain applications don't allow this.

 

 

 

Edit: this is one..

 

http://i.ehow.co.uk/images/a04/sf/89/use-easy-outs-800X800.jpg

Bought one of these for the bolt that was stuck in the rad support of my car.. The bugger was lodged so strongly, broke the easy out in the bolt..Now its stuck like that I cant drill the easy out out.. So last resort I have to remove the case nut and weld a new one...

I came across a site that said you supposed to drill the hole and then hammer the easy out into it till it lodges, is that correct?

I have never heard about hammering them in. If you are willing to give it a go and tell us how it goes

Be careful with that tool. I have used it on a brake caliper for my bike.. the bleed nipples snapped clean off. So used that tool. Drilled the hole as you should started to tighten that tool into it and bang.. its snaps off. it happened on both of them. (2 different size bleed nipples)

 

Someone told me about Spark eroding. Will try that on it.

 

Using that handle is useful. If not, just use an adjustable wrench and take it slowly to start off with to get it straight.

Bought one of these for the bolt that was stuck in the rad support of my car.. The bugger was lodged so strongly, broke the easy out in the bolt..Now its stuck like that I cant drill the easy out out.. So last resort I have to remove the case nut and weld a new one...

 

I came across a site that said you supposed to drill the hole and then hammer the easy out into it till it lodges, is that correct?

I'm just guessing here but did you buy cheap tools or did you spend some money on decent kit? A good easy out kit will cost a fair few quid to buy, cheap ones will be brittle and snap with ease.

There are hammer in easy outs, they look more like reamers than taps though. The one I linked to is a LH thread cutting easy out, they don't get hammered in.

First one was a friends set. It was probably cheap. Then i bought another set from halfords. Their stuff is normally pretty tuff but still broke off. It was a whole £12 for the set lol.

First one was a friends set. It was probably cheap. Then i bought another set from halfords. Their stuff is normally pretty tuff but still broke off. It was a whole £12 for the set lol.

That's the problem right there