Arch Rolling or Shaved

Just been speaking with Marc about this, and just wondered what people have done with the rear arches with regards to wheel widths. I've had mine shaved, running 275 with no rubbing.

Thoughts guys?

Shaved then painted finished off with underseal

Do people not worry about weakening the shell cutting off the 3/4 panel to inner arch spot welded lip, or the negative impact on practicality of accident repairs? I always think it would be far better to get a wheel and tyre combination that fits Whatever you do to the arch if, without a spring fitted to the damper, the suspension won't articulate the tyre right up into the arch until it's on the bump stops without anything fouling (lock to lock on the fronts), it's totally wrong and potentially dangerous.

a slight shave usually does the trick mate.

How does the shaving work? I know more than a few mm means you will be shaving into where the 2 layers meet.. So is it done?

I obviously will be getting mine done at the end of the month and want to get the best option.

Have a look on sf, there's a sticky on there, i will be rolling mine I think.

Here u go. http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?417926-Fender-modification-pics

How does the shaving work? I know more than a few mm means you will be shaving into where the 2 layers meet.. So is it done?

 

I obviously will be getting mine done at the end of the month and want to get the best option.

There are a couple of ways of doing it. Going nuts with an angle grinder and using a thing that I can only describe as a tin opener. One grinds away the lip, the other cuts it.

The disadvantages to rolling are that the paint can crack etc (as we all know), the massive upside is that a lot of the integrity is left in place. By shaving off the lip, the strength is gone. Granted by rolling it up and not having it perpendicular it isn't going to be THAT much better, but it will be stronger.

Mine is like being shaved , I did good job with the old sledge hammer.

we just have a tiny air grinder to shave the arch, works wonders and saves damaging the arch which happens when rolling them.

I would personally have the rear arches rolled. There 3 bit off steel going into the lip off the rear arch. The quarter panel the inner arch and the inner bodyframe. I think shaving any of this would weeken the body its self. So if you have to do any I would roll the arch.

Where's the flared option? It's what I'd like to do with mine if wider rubber was required.

i think you guys are making a big picture of it, i did shave mine in one side and cut with a dremel on the other side, and be honest i don't see the problem.

the material that was removed it's very thin and looked like metal and plastic bonded together.

I would prefer to roll them, i know on the supra the outer skin buckles a bit but i find it better than grinding into spot welds and opening up the skins. Once rolled just fill up with sealer so no water gets trapped and a heavy coat of body schutz and job done.

I would prefer to roll them, i know on the supra the outer skin buckles a bit but i find it better than grinding into spot welds and opening up the skins. Once rolled just fill up with sealer so no water gets trapped and a heavy coat of body schutz and job done.

fancy doing mine?

I will do it if you want matey, no probs. I have been wanting an arch roller for ages, could be a perfect excuse to buy one!

I will do it if you want matey, no probs. I have been wanting an arch roller for ages, could be a perfect excuse to buy one!

i am fecking terified of this arch rolling malarky, all the horror stories you hear about paint cracking ect. i have a few little spots of rust on the passenger one which makes me think that it would cause a problem with an arch roller.... oh also.. i actually have access to one as a good mate just bought a brand new one but would rather take my car to somewhere that knows how to do it. lol

the part where you mentionioned cutting and opening up the skins was what i first asked, i mean how does that work, wonce you do the trimming what do you do to reseal the skins?

Ideally you don't want to grind it by the spot welds which means you only get a few mm of metal removed. If you go by the welds the skins usually open up and lose its strength. If you were planning on painting you could put in a couple of stitch mig welds to keep the strength, but as you don't want to paint you could just pump sealer in between skins and underseal well.

I would also recommend taking the interior trims out and sealing and undersealing in there as well as you don't want condensation running into the inner arch causing rust on the inside.

I have 285's on the rear which never rub, don't think they've been rolled or anything. Don't know what I'd prefer though, first thought was I'd prefer shaved arches.

I have loads of arches for my own cars and quite a few local lads. Some cars you get away without distorting the outer panel with rolling and others you can't avoid. Also if you heat the outer panel gently with a heat gun you can get away without cracking paint. I Haven't done a Supras arches yet but reading old threads they are prone to distorting. I would still roll than grind though imo.

I just had mine rolled - there is not much to be gained (3-4mm maybe) by cutting/trimming/shaving unless you cut right back into, or beyond, the spot welds which is madness IMHO.

I had a 275/35/18 on a 9.5" wide wheel with a 30 offset and it would rub if I hit a hard bump and I know it would hit on the rolling road too. When I go to the rolling road I run a 285/35/18 on a 10" wheel with a 45 offset and that clears perfectly. When I used to have Tein HA coilovers there was never any rubbing even at lower ride heights with the 275s - just goes to show how stiff the springs are!

Geo - do you want to gain more room for a particular tyre size on existing rims? If so do you know the rim width and offset?

This was yesterday The rear right had been done when this photo was taken.

I had the fronts rolled as well because my left one has rubbed twice on a big dip in the middle of a tight low speed right hand turn at the exit from my work. They are 245/40/18 on an 8.5" wheel with a 35 offset. I hope the rolling fixed it but won't know for sure until I drive the car again.

I just had mine rolled - there is not much to be gained (3-4mm maybe) by cutting/trimming/shaving unless you cut right back into, or beyond, the spot welds which is madness IMHO.

 

I had a 275/35/18 on a 9.5" wide wheel with a 30 offset and it would rub if I hit a hard bump and I know it would hit on the rolling road too. When I go to the rolling road I run a 285/35/18 on a 10" wheel with a 45 offset and that clears perfectly. When I used to have Tein HA coilovers there was never any rubbing even at lower ride heights with the 275s - just goes to show how stiff the springs are!

 

Geo - do you want to gain more room for a particular tyre size on existing rims? If so do you know the rim width and offset?

Geo allready has his shaved, it was me who wasn't really sure what to do as I've just ordered new wheels-

18x9.5.... +24

18x11..... +22

That's running a stretch 275 on the rear.

OK gotcha, I reckon those rears might just about clear, mainly as a result of the stretch. They're basically 6mm further out than mine at the edge of the tread but mine sit quite square on the shoulder as they're on a 9.5" rim. You also might help the situation with a narrower tyre such as a FK452. However, they should fit easy with a roll

Your What tyre are you thinking for the front? I reckon the widest you could go would be a 245 and then it would probably need to be a 35 profile.

How hard is your suspension? All my stuff relates to relatively soft Bilstein based suspension - rock hard suspension makes life easier with aggressive offsets (but has countless other downsides as most people know).

OK gotcha, I reckon those rears might just about clear, mainly as a result of the stretch. They're basically 6mm further out than mine at the edge of the tread but mine sit quite square on the shoulder as they're on a 9.5" rim. You also might help the situation with a narrower tyre such as a FK452. However, they should fit easy with a roll

 

Your What tyre are you thinking for the front? I reckon the widest you could go would be a 245 and then it would probably need to be a 35 profile.

 

How hard is your suspension? All my stuff relates to relatively soft Bilstein based suspension - rock hard suspension makes life easier with aggressive offsets (but has countless other downsides as most people know).

Yeah I was speaking to Jamie about this too and he said as long as I get a good roll on the arches it should be ok. I'm buying new coilovers at the end of march so will try get some pretty stiff ones.

Tyres up front I was thinking the falkins too.

I just had mine rolled - there is not much to be gained (3-4mm maybe) by cutting/trimming/shaving unless you cut right back into, or beyond, the spot welds which is madness IMHO.

 

I had a 275/35/18 on a 9.5" wide wheel with a 30 offset and it would rub if I hit a hard bump and I know it would hit on the rolling road too. When I go to the rolling road I run a 285/35/18 on a 10" wheel with a 45 offset and that clears perfectly. When I used to have Tein HA coilovers there was never any rubbing even at lower ride heights with the 275s - just goes to show how stiff the springs are!

 

Geo - do you want to gain more room for a particular tyre size on existing rims? If so do you know the rim width and offset?

Dan, iv already had mine shaved just a tad. I was getting rubbing running 10'' 275 rears with +32 offset. Fronts were fine, just the rears had to be sorted. I might have to go wider say an 11'' on the rear soon, as im sure im going to be struggling for grip once lee is done with the car.