Matt's Engine and Single Turbo Build

Hi All,

Well I have had the car for 5 years now, I gave the outside a refresh with some new paint and a load of new external parts a few years back, but I thought it was about time to do the same to the engine and while I'm at it why not add a nice single turbo

My car is BPU at the moment. I tested it on the dyno at WIM meet and it made 408 bhp at the flywheel.

I had the car checked by AFR and the engine seemed strong. My leak down and compression results were as follows:

Compression and Leakdown results – AFR Tuning 13/03/2010

Cyl 1 192psi 6% leakage

Cyl 2 195psi 3% leakage

Cyl 3 191psi 8% leakage

Cyl 4 194psi 4% leakage

Cyl 5 190psi 6% leakage

Cyl 6 195psi 3% leakage

Whilst there they noticed a few oil leaks; front oil seal, rear oil seal and rear gearbox oil seal.

I spoke to a good friend of mine called Lee, who has quite a bit of experience building engines, and he suggested we pull the engine and do a rebuild. This way we can check everything and upgrade a few bits too. I thought this was a good idea. At the same time depending on the money I had I would either refurbish the stock twins or maybe install a single turbo. Either way the car would be built with performance modifications in mind.

My plans are specifically to build the engine. The plan thus far is as follows:

Parts so far:

(All parts from Whifbitz - Thanks Paul)

-TRD Engine mounts

-TRD Gearbox mount

-Toyota Engine gasket set

-Toyota Oil Pump

-Toyota water pump

-Toyota cambelt tensioner

-Toyota cambelt bearing and bracket

-Toyota rear gearbox oil seal

-Whifbitz braided clutch line

-Whifbitz 264 Cams

-Stage 4 Competition Clutch and lightweight flywheel.

-ARP Head bolts

-ARP Main bolts

-32 Row Setrab cooler with -10 braided lines and Mocal thermostatic control valve.

-Mahle pistons 0.5mm oversize due to the rebore.

-Manley H beam rods with ARP 3/8 2000 rod bolts.

-Whifbitz black cam gears

-Clevite, (crank, rod and thrust)

-ATI Crank Damper

-Polished Ali expansion bottle

-Whifbitz billet shock arm

-Toyota core plug set

-Whifbitz oil filter housing removal stud

-Q45 throttle body

-ST205 throttle cable

-Greddy replica surge tank (godspeed)

-DASH2 digital dash

-Whifbitz billet cam belt tensioner

-Syvecs S6 ECU with P&P loom

-EFI 3 bar map sensor

-EFI oil pressure sensor

-EFI Fuel pressure sensor

-2x mini 2 pin connectors

-EFI EGT Probe

-EFI Oil temperature sensor

-3 bar boost solenoid

-Knock sensor

Additional Spec:

-Whifbitz twin wastegate manifold with a batmowheel S366 Single turbo

-2nd bosch 044 pump

-Braided fuel lines -8AN

-Uprated fuel filter -8AN

-Whifbitz polished fuel rail with 1000cc injectors

-Fuelab 535 FPR

-FPR fitting kit

-Whifbitz polished aux pulley set

-4" Intercooler

-Lots of polishing.

-Whifbitz billet radiator brackets.

-Braille battery with relocation kit to boot?

This is all subject to change so stand by for random additions etc..

The project began this weekend. I took the car to Lee's house in Wales we have stripped the front end and have removed the engine. The only problem we had was the fact that on removing the engine we doubted the ability of his engine stand to take the weight of the completed engine and ancillaries. As such we have blocked it up on the floor and are going to buy a better stand tomorrow. Here are a few pictures of the work in progress.

Sorry for the quality but I was using my iphone camera.

The obligatory start picture.

Nice project.

Keep us posted with pics of your progress.

Your build is going to be pretty much the same as mine, when you say stage 3 hybrids what have they had done to them? My hybrids are a bit of a mystery, they have larger housings and steel internals but no-one who's previously had them knows what stage they are!

I'm not to sure whether or not to get some cams or not! What sort of power figures are you wanting/expecting?

Good luck with the build!!

Will be doing the same with mine at some point so keep the pics coming:)

What ECU are you using?

I don't know what a 'Stage 4 Competition Clutch and lightweight flywheel' is but I would match the clutch to the power, overkill and it can be a pig to drive.

Your build is going to be pretty much the same as mine, when you say stage 3 hybrids what have they had done to them? My hybrids are a bit of a mystery, they have larger housings and steel internals but no-one who's previously had them knows what stage they are!

 

I'm not to sure whether or not to get some cams or not! What sort of power figures are you wanting/expecting?

I think they are similar to what you have. General refurb with steel internals and enlarged housings. They are capable of running up to 1.6 bar. The only limiting factor will be exhaust gas temperatures so 1.4 bar would be reasonable.

Power wise I think I should be able to make around 450-475 bhp at the fly. I say this based on the work done at AFR with a similar spec engine.

What ECU are you using?

 

I don't know what a 'Stage 4 Competition Clutch and lightweight flywheel' is but I would match the clutch to the power, overkill and it can be a pig to drive.

Going to be using a Syvecs ECU. Cant think of another ECU I would rather use.

The clutch is a little overkill but I believe it will be fine for the application. People running small singles use these and they are only slightly heavier than stock. I have previously been running a Chris Wilson uprated clutch assembly which Is slightly heavier than stock too, so hopefully only a slight difference.

Paul Whiffin sells them and they are highly rated and don't have issues with fitment like many of the other clutches, the Southbend clutches in particular.

Your build is going to be pretty much the same as mine, when you say stage 3 hybrids what have they had done to them? My hybrids are a bit of a mystery, they have larger housings and steel internals but no-one who's previously had them knows what stage they are!

 

I'm not to sure whether or not to get some cams or not! What sort of power figures are you wanting/expecting?

You will definatly need to fit 264 cams as the power just tails off when it gets interesting, 264's will enable the engine to hold its power much better and will prob make bit more overall. Thats the next step for Swandips car which I believe is his next move. The uprated stock based turbo's we have been getting from CR are really producing the goods, so far we have had Supra, Skyline, MR2 and Subaru, all have been spot on and the car has cried enough before the turbos are anywhere near maxxed out, give CR a ring and talk to Mark or Vince and say you are from the MKIV Supra board and AFR told you to call and you should get a very competative price.

You will definatly need to fit 264 cams as the power just tails off when it gets interesting, 264's will enable the engine to hold its power much better and will prob make bit more overall. Thats the next step for Swandips car which I believe is his next move. The uprated stock based turbo's we have been getting from CR are really producing the goods, so far we have had Supra, Skyline, MR2 and Subaru, all have been spot on and the car has cried enough before the turbos are anywhere near maxxed out, give CR a ring and talk to Mark or Vince and say you are from the MKIV Supra board and AFR told you to call and you should get a very competative price.

Hi John,

Yep defo cams going in.

Will give CR a call and see what I can arrange. I will also probably install a water meth kit for a bit of added safety.

This is goin to be dynamic in terms of the spec and relatively slow paced given my working patterns and having to travel to Wales each time to work on the build. I live in Surrey!!

Well we bought a new engine stand on the Sunday, it was a Clarke 750A. Unfortunately I have decided for the moment to leave the engine palleted on the floor. We need to get hold of some better bolts to attach the engine to the stand. In particular I want to support it on the upper two bell housing, this will mean finding bolts which thread into the housing.

Does anyone know where I can get some decent quality bolts?

Another thing I noticed was that even though my car is pre facelift the engine mounts and supports are the later smaller later ones. These will not be compatible with my new TRD engine mounts. Does anyone have any of the pre-facelift engine support mounts going spare or know how much they are from Mr T?

http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Templates/frmTemplateM7.asp?SubFolderID=319&SearchYN=N

MVP do these mate. Could be a good price comparison when speaking to Mr T.

http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Templates/frmTemplateM7.asp?SubFolderID=319&SearchYN=N

 

MVP do these mate. Could be a good price comparison when speaking to Mr T.

Thanks for this. Luckily they don't cost too much which is a real bonus. Will see how Mr T compares.

Well this is the first weekend I have been able to get to Wales to do some more on the engine.

I would like to thank Paul Whiffin for sending me through my new Stage 4 Competition Clutch and flywheel, 264 cams, ARP head and rod bolts.

Also I would like to thank Keron for sorting me out a set of pre facelift engine support mounts.

I was able to get hold of a set of 3 1/2 inch M12x1.25mm bolts to hold the engine to the stand. I got these for free in the end from a very nice Mitsubishi dealership in Bridgend.

We stripped most of the engine down on the floor before placing it on the stand. We have shelves of parts. Now that I have decided to go single most of this is surplus and I will be looking to get rid of it. The turbo's are definitely in need of a refurb and there is quite a bit of play on them.

Well the engine was eventually opened up. Everything appeared OK. There was a bit of oil on the head for the sixth cylinder. We worked this back to a weep in the rear turbo that was running back through the manifold. The cylinders looked fine except for the fourth. At the bottom of the bore there is a slight wear mark. Not sure what has caused this? Possible oil starvation and thus lack of lubrication? Any opinions welcome.

Those scratches are typical of an engine that's been run with poor air filtration. Are you re boring it? If so they will be gone. Having gone this far I would say that you'd be mad NOT to have it bored and a new set of oversize pistons fitted. If you can find a good old boy that still knows how to hone properly you could possibly hone the bores and just fit new rings, but you can't beat new pistons in new bores BTW, if you are struggling for long metric fine bolts, such as for the engine to stand fixations, just buy high tensile threaded rod from a good engineers merchants and you can make your own with a nut on one end, to any length you like up to metre long .

Those scratches are typical of an engine that's been run with poor air filtration. Are you re boring it? If so they will be gone. Having gone this far I would say that you'd be mad NOT to have it bored and a new set of oversize pistons fitted. If you can find a good old boy that still knows how to hone properly you could possibly hone the bores and just fit new rings, but you can't beat new pistons in new bores BTW, if you are struggling for long metric fine bolts, such as for the engine to stand fixations, just buy high tensile threaded rod from a good engineers merchants and you can make your own with a nut on one end, to any length you like up to metre long .

Thanks Chris, was hoping you would pop along and input.

Will definitely be honing the block. Like you said would be silly not to. Would rather not put new pistons in so will be looking for a good old boy, know anyone?

Would poor air filtration still be the cause if it was only in the one cylinder? The rest are fine with very slight marking, its just the one cylinder. Could this still be a lubrication issue?

Nice build this, our builds are quite alike, my engine is being removed tomorrow. Any reason why you left the box in mate? Andy

Nice build this, our builds are quite alike, my engine is being removed tomorrow. Any reason why you left the box in mate? Andy

Basically space. We don't have the room to store it in the garage out of the car for the moment so we made the decision to leave it there. We will remove it but not until we need to.

so u can just split the engine off the bellhousing and pull it forward enough to lift it out? thats handy to know i do the same with skyline gst's and subarus but i have never removed any supra engines yet

so u can just split the engine off the bellhousing and pull it forward enough to lift it out? thats handy to know i do the same with skyline gst's and subarus but i have never removed any supra engines yet

Yep, you need to also release the engine loom from the gearbox but it can be done. It did take us some time and we cursed it quite a bit

Much easier to take it out in one.

What he said^^^

looking great mate, will be doing this to mine one day

there are alot of interesting builds happening, best of luck with this im sure it will all go well

OOO i like i like.

I might have to come over at some point and take a looky see.

All the best with it all.

Thanks Chris, was hoping you would pop along and input.

 

Will definitely be honing the block. Like you said would be silly not to. Would rather not put new pistons in so will be looking for a good old boy, know anyone?

 

Would poor air filtration still be the cause if it was only in the one cylinder? The rest are fine with very slight marking, its just the one cylinder. Could this still be a lubrication issue?

Would still say it's airborne dirt that has caused it. Very typical of poor filtration or no filtration. See it a lot in F3 engines that, in the search for the last 1/4 BHP run no filters at all. HKS filters do this too. Could be dirt in the oil but the crank bearings and oil pump would show this badly if that were the case.