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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

twin electric fans


barneybrendan
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mine has the aircon rad removed.Ive searched loads and cant find anything with this question mentioned.just be another way of getting things out the way

 

I'm a big fan of getting things out the way but my twin fan setup cost a fortune and I wouldn't want to mess with the cooling on a 2JZ engine if it wasn't proved to out perform the normal setup.

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Cant see there being room on mine, 5" ic, aircon rad and PAS cooler.

 

I have SRD fans and they have been brilliant.

 

Electric fans are great imo, i know people say there is no benefit as electric ones still draw power, but mine hardly ever come on, you get enough air flow when moving to keep it cool, they only come on in traffic.

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most of the descent electric fans come in either pullers or pushers.Can anybody see a reason why you couldnt fit pushers.I have some pushers that flow a lot of air,whereas the cheap twin kit i bought are pullers and too be honest are crap flow.

 

 

Well I love innovation. Give it a go mate, what's the worst that can happen. Make sure you've got a good aftermaket water temp gauge and you can't go wrong really.

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just found out pusher fans are 80% as efficient as puller fans.so if the flow rate is higher than what is required on the pusher it should work out the same or is my thinking away with the clouds.What does a 6 cylinder engine require in flow rate ,in the write up ive just seen it says 2,000cfm.If thats about right then 2 pushers flowing 1,600 each should do fine.

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Surely an time you're driving over about 30mph you'll be shoving more air through there than any fan can shift anyway...

At that point, the fan housing becomes an obstruction to the airflow.

 

This ^^^^^^^

 

Years ago radiators were huge and sumps were huge ( water and oil temps are linked) This presented a problem the frontal area was also huge and an aerodynamic disaster

Constant temperatures are required, but at high rpms and high power there are more combustion explosions per second and bigger heat generated and vice versa at idle

so you can overcool at idle or undercool at max

the result was to use a smaller, thinner radiator and duct air to it ,great at speed ,but the overcooling at idle was still a problem ,the fan was engine driven

So someone thought of using an electric fan , no cooling air at all unless it was needed and switch it on with a temperature switch ,,, so you have both a waterstat and a fanstat to regulate

The rad is sized and the waterpump rated flow is done to undercool at low rpms and low car speed and the elect fan used to control the temp this also allows faster engine warm up to constant temp

So as long as the fan moves enough air to cut out its stat after a few mins fine , but it must also not impede the normal airflow during driving , no electric fan can cool the higher power levels heat generated

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On my MkIII with the small block chevy, push fans in front of the rad never cooled enough, when i changed to the same cfm pull fans on the engine side all was fine. I think it was down to the pull fans blowing air out of the engine bay as much as pulling air through the rad. When they were running you could feel the warm air blowing out from underneath lowering engine bay temperature as well as cooling the rad.

 

The push type fans would also be in the airflow prior to the rad and would presumably obstruct airflow. Dont rely on this as im no expert, but this is what i found from past experience

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