HKS and JUN Camshafts

[dandan]

Hi all,

Can anyone post up some specs (and perhaps pm me some prices) for these cams? Does anyone have any first hand experience with any of these cams? I'm looking for as much technical info as possible on 256, 264 and 272 cams from both manufacturers.

Lift?
Duration (are the names ie 264 recorded at 0.050" off the seat)?
Timing?
Overlap with different combinations and timing settings?

Are adjustable cam gears necessary for fine tuning on the dyno or are there known timing figures for these cams to suit a bpu spec car whereby an offset key would suffice?

If you have fitted these, have you remapped accordingly to suit or just fired the cams in and hoped for the best?

Any real dyno comparisons from this country, not just US bs?

Thanks

Dan

[Alex]

All JUN camshafts are 9.3mm lift (256/264/272) but there is a 10.8mm option on the 272's.

The HKS cams have staggered lift, I forget exactly but I believe they are;
256*9mm
264*9.3mm
272*9.8mm

I would personally go for the JUN 256in and either or the HKS/JUN 264ex.

[Barry]

At what lift does it become an interference engine? Are you safe with 9.3mm?

[Alex]

@ 10mm it becomes interference. So the 10.8mm JUN ones are a bit of a non-starter unless you are getting pistons to match.

[Dragonball]

Have you considered the Crower cams??

http://www.crower.com/cat/import/toyota/camshafts.shtml

Just got a set of these Stage 1 in for Kostas - great value and quality

Check out 'engine' link below for link to prices on the site!



:thumbs:

[dandan]

Thanks Paul,

I'll give them a look over mate.

Does anyone know the actual duration of any of the HKS or JUN cams 50 thou off the seat?

[dude]

The Crowers are very good but i think most of them become interference due to the lift and also they do need setting up on a dyno whereas the HKS allways sem to work better on the factory marks , FWIW i may give the crowers a go in the race engine thats being built .

Dude:flame Dev

[Ian C]

HKS drop in nicely and remain non-inteference. All the dyno plots I've seen of the 272's sacrifice a lot of low down and midrange power for a bit of a blip up top so I personally wouldn't consider them. 256in 264ex is great if you wish to retain a staggered setup a la stock (to compensate for the compromised head design), or 264 264 if you just have to have a bigger number in there somewhere :)

Terry Saunders did a load of tests on degreeing the cams forward and backward, and was gutted to find out the the best power/torque balance was 0deg in, 0deg ex, thus rendering his expensive adjustable cam gears pointless :) I didn't bother with any thanks to that, ta Terry :thumbs:

-Ian

[Dragonball]

http://www.junauto.co.jp/products/cylinderhead-part/camshaft/camshaft-2jz.html?en

Gives all the info on these

Have requested info on prices etc from my man Cato in Japan (ah..so...you sound velly much like David Beckham..etc etc!)!)



:thumbs:

[MONKEYmark]

i went with hks 264 264 they were all same price, i was a bit scared off the 272`s due to people saying you loose out bottom end. im not much fussed about top end. mid range is great. went with cam gears too. i get sucked into all the hype of buying all the branded named parts. once you get a new part you always want something else.

[dandan]

Thanks for all the replies again chaps, when I get home later I'll post up a summary of all cam specs info has been brought up on.

Ian and Mark...

Any back to back dyno testing? Any real performance gains? What actual difference have the cams made?

Mohd has told me to stay away from cam swaps unless on a mid size single pushing well over 500bhp.

[Roy]

dandan - like mark said, the 264/264 combo meant i got that slight uneven burble (not that it matters of course!) but i sensed slightly better mid-range pulling power without too much sacrifice at all. i also PM'd you back with a few other thoughts.

[Ian C]

Mohd warned me off as well but they don't have the concept of hybrids in the states so I got them anyway. Slightly lumpy idle, no noticeable loss of power in the bottom end, and it now pulls strongly all the way to 6500rpm.

Back to back dyno testing? You're having a laugh aren't you? Well, actually, I did do some testing :rolleyes: :D

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10983&highlight=cams

Have a read of that.

-Ian

[Supragal]

Originally posted by Ian C
Slightly lumpy idle, no noticeable loss of power in the bottom end, and it now pulls strongly all the way to 6500rpm.


I'm glad you said that!!

As I mentioned in another post, JUN USA have gone out of business apparently so that may sway your decision. Unless somewhere has them in stock or can get direct from Japan?

I know what I'm going for :innocent:

[Dragonball]

Originally posted by Supragal

Unless somewhere has them in stock or can get direct from Japan?



My man in the 'land of the rising' is on to it now!

:thumbs:

[Grazer]

Originally posted by Barry
At what lift does it become an interference engine? Are you safe with 9.3mm?

Anyone fancy giving a brief explanation of what an interference engine is - it's a term I've not come across yet.

[Supragal]

Ok, if the valve is all the all way out into the combusion chamber and the piston comes all the way up they won't hit. So, if your cam belt snaps a normal engine mashes itself (as above but with contact instead of without) but non interference engines will just stall instead.

I think :stupid:

[Dragonball]

Sounds a good explanation to me!

BTW - have just heard that Jun Cam Sprockets are in stock in Japan

Jun Cam Gears are on back order for 6 weeks (they say 45 days)



:thumbs:

[Ian C]

Originally posted by Supragal
Ok, if the valve is all the all way out into the combusion chamber and the piston comes all the way up they won't hit. So, if your cam belt snaps a normal engine mashes itself (as above but with contact instead of without) but non interference engines will just stall instead.

I think :stupid:

Couldn't have put it better myself :music:

-Ian

[Grazer]

Cheers SG :thumbs:

One day I will know how my Sup goes like it does :D

[Wez]

Looking at those profiles I think I would prob go for JUN 264 in and out, they have more lift and medium duration which should give good midband power.

Hmmm, 6 weeks is a long time though :(