Trouble with crank pulley bolt

Has anyone had any trouble taking the crank pulley bolt off?

I cant find any way to lock the engine up to crack it off with a big bar and my snap on gun wont touch it lol, if anyone has any advice it would be much appreciated

Brendan

long bar down to the floor and crank the engine quick on and off

Brendan

long bar down to the floor and crank the engine quick on and off

 

Brendan

After you disconnect the coil packs !!!!!!!

After you disconnect the coil packs !!!!!!!

or distributor

Or do what i did and get a proper cam locking tool machined up..

Looks less cowboyish should the owner walk in at that particular time

Or do what i did and get a proper cam locking tool machined up..

 

Looks less cowboyish should the owner walk in at that particular time

how does that work then

Or do what i did and get a proper cam locking tool machined up..

 

Looks less cowboyish should the owner walk in at that particular time

If I gave you my motor to get the crank bolt out and you tried to lock it up by the cams I would not be happy!

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If it's really tight even the cranking trick may not crack it. Knock up or borrow a crank locking tool and it will come out. I made one with just a couple of bits of angle and a few bolts. On my old NA it just wouldn't budge until I used this, even defeating the cranking method, bringing the starter to a dead stop.

or distributor

I forgot about NA's !!!!!!

You can have one of my last bits of free advice on the forum !!!!!!!! Snap on do a nice little tool to go around the crank pulley that will then lock on to the water pump, this will completly lock the engine enabling you to use a large breaker bar and tube to undo the bolt and it will lock it the other way so you can use a torque wrench to do it back up.

thanks everyone, i managed to take the starter out and lock the flywheel while my mate used the breaker bar on it, was abit hard doing it whilst lying on my back lol

Thanks, Brendan

You can have one of my last bits of free advice on the forum !!!!!!!! Snap on do a nice little tool to go around the crank pulley that will then lock on to the water pump, this will completly lock the engine enabling you to use a large breaker bar and tube to undo the bolt and it will lock it the other way so you can use a torque wrench to do it back up.

Dude, doesn't that put a strain on the rubber part, or does it go around the larger part rather than the pulley?

Dont Toyota do a specific tool for this job, not sure the cost involved, but there is a part number in the manual

I still cant see how the starter motor thing works when impact wrenches fail! Yeah Toyota do a tool but its quite expensive.

Dude Im gonna check Snap On for this tool

I just cracked the bolt and bought a new bolt. And before anyone starts... nothing else was affected by this method. I still wouldn't do it this way though if I were you.

I still cant see how the starter motor thing works when impact wrenches fail! Yeah Toyota do a tool but its quite expensive.

Dude Im gonna check Snap On for this tool

A huge bar + large human = more torque than a lot of rattle guns

Just give me a shout Craig, I can always stick my Toyota SST in the post for the odd times you'll need one.

Dude, doesn't that put a strain on the rubber part, or does it go around the larger part rather than the pulley?

If I were at all in doubt over the integrity of the pulley cond I would be changing it anyway. The tool looks very much like a 'chain cutter' used on exhausts and tube.

If I were at all in doubt over the integrity of the pulley cond I would be changing it anyway. The tool looks very much like a 'chain cutter' used on exhausts and tube.

Ok right, I know the sort of thing, we used to use something that sounds like that to clamp large diameter tubing prior to being threaded.

Reason I ask is that from memory the actual pulley is pressed and bonded to the rubber damper and there is no metal connection between the pulley and the for want of a better word the 'disc' behind it, which I presume is the bit the tool you are using must attach to. If your bit of kit was to be attached to the belt part of the pulley I am guessing on tight bolts the rubber would give up before the bolt cracks. There was a guy on the forum who used to lend a nice tool out FOC until someone nicked it.

There was a guy on the forum who used to lend a nice tool out FOC until someone nicked it.

that reminds me I have a tool that is on 'long term loan' with someone else too.......................I really must get it back!!

Mine is two piece, a machined circle/cylinder/polo shaped piece that sits in the pulleys recess and a long bar that goes over the top (with suitable hole for the socket and x2 fixing bolts)....it's neat in that the 'polo' pieces hole allows a 22mm impact socket to get to the bolt but it's too small to allow the whole bolt to come out and so it pulls the pulley off at the same time as you undo the bolt.

Ok right, I know the sort of thing, we used to use something that sounds like that to clamp large diameter tubing prior to being threaded.

 

Reason I ask is that from memory the actual pulley is pressed and bonded to the rubber damper and there is no metal connection between the pulley and the for want of a better word the 'disc' behind it, which I presume is the bit the tool you are using must attach to. If your bit of kit was to be attached to the belt part of the pulley I am guessing on tight bolts the rubber would give up before the bolt cracks. There was a guy on the forum who used to lend a nice tool out FOC until someone nicked it.

If you think of the mechanics and the strength of the rubber it would be impossible on a good pulley to twist the outer ring off, you would need tons and tons of force to make bonded rubber spin round on the inner mounting.

If you think of the mechanics and the strength of the rubber it would be impossible on a good pulley to twist the outer ring off, you would need tons and tons of force to make bonded rubber spin round on the inner mounting.

I didn't think it would take too much to be honest, but on the other hand the only ones I have had experience have been old, high mileage ones that have been exposed to years of enginge heat anyhow. I guess it is also a good way of determining if the pulley should be replaced doing it your way. The one I made up just has a couple of bolts that go into the tapped holes either side of the bolt and rests on the chassis leg, crude but works.

If I gave you my motor to get the crank bolt out and you tried to lock it up by the cams I would not be happy!

90% of cars nowdays use a cam locking tool which locks the cams up so you can remove the bottom pulley when doing a timing belt/water pump but you knew that already... arse

how does that work then

Basicly its like machined wedge shaped in an hour glass so to speak which inserts between the two camshaft pulleys. Its been made to fit correctly inbetween the teeth and is strong enough to hold it still whilst cracking the nut off with a breaker bar but apparently in shane's world thats cowboyish even though its been made specificaly for the job.

I didn't think it would take too much to be honest, but on the other hand the only ones I have had experience have been old, high mileage ones that have been exposed to years of enginge heat anyhow. I guess it is also a good way of determining if the pulley should be replaced doing it your way. The one I made up just has a couple of bolts that go into the tapped holes either side of the bolt and rests on the chassis leg, crude but works.

Too many times now ive had those threads either strip on me or found them already stripped, unless the bolts go in really tight then the moment you put a breaker bar on you will just bend the 2 little bolts you are using.

90% of cars nowdays use a cam locking tool which locks the cams up so you can remove the bottom pulley when doing a timing belt/water pump but you knew that already... arse

 

 

 

Basicly its like machined wedge shaped in an hour glass so to speak which inserts between the two camshaft pulleys. Its been made to fit correctly inbetween the teeth and is strong enough to hold it still whilst cracking the nut off with a breaker bar but apparently in shane's world thats cowboyish even though its been made specificaly for the job.

Think the key point here is that the thread title has the words 'crank pulley' in it and not 'cam pulley'. The tool you describe is to lock the cam pulley to remove the bolt from the cam pulley. If you locked the cams and tried then to crack the crank pulley bolt that if done up properly would be at 380Nm all you would do is strip the cam belt as the crank pulley's teeth jumped the splines on the belt.