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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Stroker kits


Tee from China
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The number of stroker kits available for the 2JZ is getting like a minefield with known kits from HKS,TMS, PHR and BC but I have also found kits from Nitto, Strike Force and Spool (but cannot find any info on Strike Force other than on the TTC site and the Nitto on PHR's site). Plus there is the TMS poor boy 3.2 and the JUN 3.2 - so how is one supposed to choose a kit? price? name? specs? or what?

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To be certain of not getting a Chinese made crank of dubious parentage I'd just get the likes of Farndon or Arrow to make a stroker crank. May cost more, but hell, a stroker project will never be cheap anyway, so at least you can be sure of quality and support the UK businesses. Spool for example is Chinese.

 

Farndon usually have bargain offers out of season when short of work. Worth waiting for as the price drop is quite worth while. I doubt Doug Kiddy (Arrow) will give you change from 3k mind (That's how much the 3S-GE black top group A cranks were and that's just a 4 pot).

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Ludders of RIPS UK R34 Drag-R fame used a Farndon crank and it was found to be cracked in his yearly strip down. RIPZ have replaced it with a stock Nissan item they have more confidence in, he made comment about Fardon not being interested in the failure at all.

 

So I wouldn't automatically assume just because it comes from a UK company you will get any support to fix it if it fails.

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No matter how good the crank, its only as good as the bearings , the bearings and their strength against detonation , then the det itself .

Plus oiling

You can break the finest crank , or preserve the poorest (to a degree) RPMS,load,bearings,oil ,det,fatigue cycle - its all a bit Clint -"do you feel lucky?"

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Finding a Machine shop that you could trust to do the Horiziontal boring in the UK is always a bit dicey!

 

If I was going down this route again I think I would be tempted to buy a pre built block by a company that has a proven track record. Titan and Sound Performance both offer built engine packages although they are not cheap.

 

Thanks

 

Kevin

 

Could well have been a clearance issue as I believe that car had billet mains.
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Finding a Machine shop that you could trust to do the Horiziontal boring in the UK is always a bit dicey!

 

If I was going down this route again I think I would be tempted to buy a pre built block by a company that has a proven track record. Titan and Sound Performance both offer built engine packages although they are not cheap.

 

Thanks

 

Kevin

 

That's why I only use Rob Walker for machining and an engine builder who invests in the right tools. His £3000 bore gauge save us from an hour glass shaped cylinder from a supposed reputable machining company.

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No matter how good the crank, its only as good as the bearings , the bearings and their strength against detonation , then the det itself .

Plus oiling

You can break the finest crank , or preserve the poorest (to a degree) RPMS,load,bearings,oil ,det,fatigue cycle - its all a bit Clint -"do you feel lucky?"

 

It's rare and refreshing to see someone talk about Det as a factor of bearing wear most think of det as only effecting things in the combustion chamber. Even if it doesn't det, sufficient cylinder pressure can cause oil erosion on the bearing surface, seen that on a 700bhp 3S-GTE that we used to monitor the wear rate of components on.

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If it's so good why do so many want to get the hell out though? :) At least he'll be able to read the "warranty" :)

 

:taped: good for foreigners...well till 2012 maybe, but for nationals they want to GTHO!! to the US,UK or anywhere else where they can get money.

 

Warranty? "you want broody varrany and cheapa plice too? .......you foreigners velly funny hahaha" "OK I gallenty all okey doky till you leave shop".....:eyebrows:

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Ha-ha for some things:eyebrows: - sure but for quality.........never never ever buy Chinese(unless its food...and you saw it BEFOREHAND)

 

Crower cranks and rods are made in China;) so are eagle and scat and most of the Hi end jap tuner parts, you can buy a crap uk made crank and a great one just as you can chinese etc, ive gone with spool after talking a lot to Brad and im more than happy as he has plenty of cranks in high HP cars, there is a 1400++hp skyline on Methanol using his crank and rods, thing is my chinese crank has cost a lot less than some other chinese cranks of the same material:eyebrows:

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Crower cranks and rods are made in China;) so are eagle and scat and most of the Hi end jap tuner parts, you can buy a crap uk made crank and a great one just as you can chinese etc, ive gone with spool after talking a lot to Brad and im more than happy as he has plenty of cranks in high HP cars, there is a 1400++hp skyline on Methanol using his crank and rods, thing is my chinese crank has cost a lot less than some other chinese cranks of the same material:eyebrows:

 

Some of the most impressive, technically advanced factories in the World I've visited have been in China, I've also seen some shockingly bad ones.

 

It's all about the design, engineering, manufacturing and quality control, get all those right and I would have no qualms about a Chinese made part.

 

Unfortunately there's loads of other cheap crap produced there which is badly designed, engineered, manufactured and with poor/no quality control, which is usually then flogged on Ebay :)

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I can normally get billet main caps next day, UK made. I also know where a proper line boring operation can be done, but it's not cheap. Never having seen or heard of main cap breakage or abnormal bearing wear on the 2JZ engines makes me wonder why one would go to the expense and hassle of steel main caps though. I got three Toyota 4A-GE blocks converted to billet main caps last year, after finding this when i stripped my Formula Atlantic race engine. The cap had been fractured for some time, as can be seen by the wear marks on the back of the shell. Engine ran fine with perfect oil pressure.....Steel caps are in last photo.

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