spark plug removal problem

Not posted in a while, as the Supe as been behaving itself, but after cleaning the engine to discover the source of an oil leak, I must have got a bit of water into the spark plug area (despite being careful!). It has developed a misfire.

I have bought a new set of HT leads and plugs and have now removed the throttle body to gain access. The problem I have is that the spark plugs are F tight and I’m unable to remove them with my Halfrauds plug spanner. What are the risks of damaging something by using a socket with a bigger bar on it to give a bit more leverage?

I would hate to strip a thread or snap a plug. Any hints or tips anyone please.

Thanks

Matt

’93 N/A

ooo i hate the feeling when you think something going to snap

I would first make sure you have a good tool and its not lose fit or anything but i wonder if you run the car for a 15 min to get the engine hot to see if helps crack the plug undone ??????

Definitely try it with the engine hot. The head being alloy (is that right?) should expand more than the plugs giving a little bit of give.

Definitely try it with the engine hot. The head being alloy (is that right?) should expand more than the plugs giving a little bit of give.

I was going to say the same, but add that a bit of lubricant may also help.

I'd definetly try it hot, 1st off i'd clean round the plug so theres no muck around it, then if the plug undoes a little bit but is still tight i'd pop some penetrating lube around the threads and slowly back and forth the plug to get it out.

I'd also use a t bar so you can get leveridge on both sides with one hand pulling and the other one pushing, not a ratchet as you tend to pull to one side

Are you able to run the NA 2JZ with the throttle body removed?

Are you able to run the NA 2JZ with the throttle body removed?

I wouldn't, why would you want to try? Throttle cable wouldn't work for a start lol.

if i were you i would get a 10mm (i think) deep sock, a 12inch extension and a breaker bar erm a long one i think i got a 17inch one from halfords , you should be about to get some decent leverage on the plug then, my mate snapped his spark plug spanner the other day, really they are just good for removing and refitting loose plugs until the threads bite, i would tighten up with something bigger

i had a few problems refitting the intake any problems post up on this thread, i have subscribed

I wouldn't, why would you want to try? Throttle cable wouldn't work for a start lol.

Because the op has removed the t/b and inlet manifold i'd assume to get at the plugs to change them and were saying get the engine hot to try to shift the siezed plug

Because the op has removed the t/b and inlet manifold i'd assume to get at the plugs to change them and were saying get the engine hot to try to shift the siezed plug

Ahh. Didn't realise I had to be so specific in my advise

Ok..

Put your car back together the way it was... close the bonnet... make sure the car is out of gear.... put the key in the ignition.... turn the key till the engine starts then let go..... bored now

If you need all that leveridge then theres a strong chance the thread could pick up and strip itself out the cylinder head, steady and gently is the best approach

Ahh. Didn't realise I had to be so specific in my advise

 

Ok..

 

Put your car back together the way it was... close the bonnet... make sure the car is out of gear.... put the key in the ignition.... turn the key till the engine starts then let go..... bored now

 

How long you been in here ?

And theres no need to close the bonnet;)

As you say, I have gone to all the trouble removing the throttle body to get access to the plugs, so I can't realy warm the engine up! Though if it's the correct way to go, I could put it all back together again.... :-(

So no one has snapped a plug or stripped a thread, removing a plug? I'll go and get a bigger bar and suitable socket tomorrow morning and give that a try.

Thanks

Sounds like someone has torqued them up wrong, IIRC, the plugs in a supe are not screwed in tight at all.

If you have got water in the plug wells the threads maybe corroded, I'd blow out any water/debris from the holes with compressed air and soak with penetrating fluid, leave for a while and then use a T bar.

The torque figures arent very high in aluminium heads

18MM upto 35ft lbs

14MM upto 21.6 ft lbs

12MM upto 14.5 ft lbs

The water has only been there for about 24h. There is probably more oil in there (from the cam cover gasket leaking) than anything else, so it shouldn't be corroded. The area around the plugs looks fairly clean.

I don't have access to compressed air, but I do have a suction thing that I use for the oil changes. I'll use that to remove as much as I can from around the plug recess.

aye clean as much up before you remove the plugs

Put it back together, warm her up a bit, then give it another go.

I'm almost certain that will work. yes it's a pain in the ass but needs must

Don't swing from the ratchet if you don't have a floating bar though. Use one hand to hold it square and the other to torque it. One other trick is to tighten 1/8th of a turn before you loosen. That breaks off any hold corrosion has while keeping the socket square on the face of the head.

How long you been in here ?

 

And theres no need to close the bonnet;)

Will heat up faster with it closed

Make sure you have a good quality plug spanner. I had one of those cheap blue handled ones from Halfords, I put a bit of weight on with a bar and snapped the thing in half.

My mate came round with an extended socket and bar and pulled it out without any extra leverage......

H.

Wait.. what's a plug spanner? Are you not using a plug socket? I wouldn't use anything but a long socket with the rubber grommit, extension bar and a half decent ratchet.

It's one of the blue handled Halfrauds ones that I'm using. I'll go out in the morning and get a proper T bar and socket.

If warming it up is the best way, then I'll do that. It'll be a pain putting all back together again, but if it works it'll be worth it.

thanks for all the advice.

You should be fine with a proper tool set, you can always feel if the metal is ready to snap. As scary as it sounds, a sharp dunt with the butt of your hand on the ratchet is usually the way to go to 'break' the tightness through shocking to get things moving. Pussy footing around with lots of force for a period is more likely to break / thread things IMO.

You should be fine with a proper tool set, you can always feel if the metal is ready to snap. As scary as it sounds, a sharp dunt with the butt of your hand on the ratchet is usually the way to go to 'break' the tightness through shocking to get things moving. Pussy footing around with lots of force for a period is more likely to break / thread things IMO.

It is good advice to try shocking it off, don't go nuts though. Just to add, it would probably be best to use a metal handled ratchet and something metallic to do the shocking with rather than your palm though. I would say a hammer but I would rather air on the side of caution as I don't know if you will follow our thinking, experience is the key here lol.

A short sharp hit