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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

carbon wrapped OEM airbox opinions please


Dave
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just finished doing this its taken me a week to complete as there are many angles and bits on it ,ive smoothed down the airbox lid and the the top and sides of the airbox ,there are joins, unavoidable im afraid due to the shape.i have used high temp glue and contact adhesive it will be ok in the engine bay .

no doubt you may find some faults but it looks 100 times better than the original.i was only going to do the front vent and the airbox lid but i got carried away. :)

 

id like comments good or bad thanks guys. the pics dont do it justice looks better in the flesh

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Edited by Dave (see edit history)
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Looks nice,

 

However my dash is now useless the stuff dont like heat, soon as it gets hot it will come away from any sharp edges

 

I'm worried about this to. All parts are fine except the auto gear lever panel, just keeps lifting around the ring in the middle and its not even fitted in the car yet, just on the bedroom floor.

 

Think they will need to be flocked instead

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Hi temp glue has been used. The car gets way hotter than my room will, cant see it lasting 5 mins.

 

Trust me it wont. Unless the item its being put on is flat IE my TRD blade it will bubble and come off.

 

Even the roof spoiler i did has bubbled on the slight ridge. I will removing all of it very shortly.

 

Shame really.

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fan Shroud would be ok i would think. Flatness is the key, ask it to mould around corners or tight edges and you in trouble.

 

TRD end caps and blade. FINE.

 

Dash, Clock part (due to not doing the rings) Center part FINE.

 

Gear surround bubbled all the way around the stick part, key panel, all the way around the key part bubbled, top part gone all the way around the display and ripped.

 

Roof spoiler bubbled all the way down the dip.

 

I think i was one of the first to use this stuff and it took a few months to fuck up. I will post pics before i remove it.

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If it's bubbling and coming off, then the resin hasn't cured or the resin is specced to cure at too low temp to start with. The cure temperature should always be hotter than the working temperature.

Once cured it should take a resonable amount of heat (say 80 degrees or so) without too much of a problem.

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Im sure Dave said he used high temp glue to combat the heat issue (might be wrong though)

 

none of the covered dash panels in my car has any lifting car has been parked in the direct sunlight in my drive .did you use the 120 degree spray glue anything else and youll have problems

 

i covered my apexi intake and thats near the exhaust manifold and it hasnt lifted or bubbled

 

heres a tip if you have to stretch the fabric then dont stick it all at once do it in sections give the glue 20mins to dry between each section.im doing the fuse box cover so ive stuck it 1/2 inch at a time [where you have to stretch it] down to the lip will finish it off tomorrow.

another tip rough up the surface with a 60 sandpaper dont worry it wont show through

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Edited by Dave (see edit history)
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If it's bubbling and coming off, then the resin hasn't cured or the resin is specced to cure at too low temp to start with. The cure temperature should always be hotter than the working temperature.

Once cured it should take a resonable amount of heat (say 80 degrees or so) without too much of a problem.

 

i agree i think he used too low a temp glue the stuff i use is £15 quid a pop

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