Timing belt tensioner pulley arm Part No.?

Please can someone tell me the part No. for the pivoted die cast arm the tensioner pully is mounted on. Or, does someone have one I can buy? I broke mine today:( Maybe it comes with a replacement pully, anyone know off hand?

Hang on, I have a link for you somewhere to a billet steel arm that won't break, apparently! Costly though.......but could save the engine. I also just ordered two Gates racing belts from the States, incase anyone wanted one.

http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Templates/frmTemplateM7.asp?SubFolderID=787&SearchYN=N

Hang on, I have a link for you somewhere to a billet steel arm that won't break, apparently! Costly though.......but could save the engine. I also just ordered two Gates racing belts from the States, incase anyone wanted one.

 

http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Templates/frmTemplateM7.asp?SubFolderID=787&SearchYN=N

Thanks, but hey that is well expensive. I wonder how often these actually break? The one I broke today is on my NA not my TT. Maybe I should buy one of these and use it on the TT and put the oem one from the TT on the NA.

I found it to be a very impressive piece of OEM kit. How on earth did you break it?

I've not heard of one breaking before.

Paul Whiffin broke one a couple of weeks ago...

I believe AFR sell a cheaper billet version though.

i broke one last year

The link is for the NA but both the same aren't they?

I found it to be a very impressive piece of OEM kit. How on earth did you break it?

I've not heard of one breaking before.

Had a real hard time getting the crank pulley off and it at one point I applied leverage behind the pulley, when we finally got it off and removed the cover the idler arm was in two. Seems like they do break though going by the other posts here. Found them on fleabay for £32 delivered.

Bit off topic now but am more concerned why the tiny core plug in the back of the stat housing has failed again after just 3 years.

The link is for the NA but both the same aren't they?

Yes, sure they are.

Had a real hard time getting the crank pulley off and it at one point I applied leverage behind the pulley, when we finally got it off and removed the cover the idler arm was in two. Seems like they do break though going by the other posts here. Found them on fleabay for £32 delivered.

 

Bit off topic now but am more concerned why the tiny core plug in the back of the stat housing has failed again after just 3 years.

Obviously pressure/corrosion related. Best use a better sealant, tighter plug or tapered thread plugs (BSP or NPT 'grubscrews').

Do you use proper red Toyota coolant? Corrosion is your first suspect given that it lasted for some time.

Crank pulley sounds like an interference fit so requires heat to seat then cool down tight. Be careful not to crack or bend the nose with leverage though. Immerse the pulley in very hot/boiling water before re-fitting to expand it. Dry first quickly, of course but should evaporate fast enough.

I bought a set of alloy pulleys myself so will need to do mine. How did you find the crank bolt? Sposed to be a mare because it's threadlocked......

Its not threadlock you have t oworry about, its the 320Nm to undo it.

Obviously pressure/corrosion related. Best use a better sealant, tighter plug or tapered thread plugs (BSP or NPT 'grubscrews').

 

Do you use proper red Toyota coolant? Corrosion is your first suspect given that it lasted for some time.

 

Crank pulley sounds like an interference fit so requires heat to seat then cool down tight. Be careful not to crack or bend the nose with leverage though. Immerse the pulley in very hot/boiling water before re-fitting to expand it. Dry first quickly, of course but should evaporate fast enough.

 

I bought a set of alloy pulleys myself so will need to do mine. How did you find the crank bolt? Sposed to be a mare because it's threadlocked......

Well the core plug in question is the one at the back of the stat housing behind the water pump. It's a simple press in cup type pressed into a hole in the casting. I may have used a thin smear of hermitite at the time but cant remember to be honest. On both occasions the plug has failed in the same place.

I used to use 4life, but in the past coulple of years have had comma all year protection in the system. I know it's not oem but have used it in both steel and ally engines over the years without issue. It's the red stuff not the cheapie green.

I have a puller but on the supra it cant be used as the oem pulley has in integrated rubber part that the pulley is pressed onto. If the puller is attached to that the pulley would simply seperate from the rubber. As for the bolt, it should never be threadlocked, when ever it has been is when there is problems removing it.

The bolt on my NA had been locktited and it was a real problem to get out. If heat is applied to break the seal then the front oil seal will also suffer damage. It's not quite such an issue on manual cars but on autos you really need the tool to hold the pulley.

I made one out of a couple of bits of angle iron and it came out. I had taken it to 2 local mechanics first though and they gave up, both wanting to apply heat. I am sure if I was not there they would have done. I have to wonder how many crank pulleys and front oil seals have been cooked by such treatment.

I also just ordered two Gates racing belts from the States, incase anyone wanted one.

Can i ask why ?

 

I bought a set of alloy pulleys myself so will need to do mine.

I do hope your not replacing your stock crank pulley for an alloy pulley

I now have a completed tool set for pulley removal, in a presentation case. I'm wondering though whether anyone would be willing to make a safety deposit of £150 for the duration of the loan. It would cost about £30 postage which covers both ways.

Given what happened to Markssupra's tool, I wouldn;t be willing to loan it out without a deposit.

Ok, I've not even looked at mine yet but the rubber ring would be the harmonic damper and you're right, heat during dis-assembly might be an issue but I meant on re-assembly and only to use boiling water, not a torch.

Hermetite is inappropriate, as you've found out. It's pretty useless generally as it doesn't dry hard so some decent silicone stuff from Permatex would be better. Will post details when found. Have it all on an engine building dvd but it's late now. If it's good enough for 1500hp V8 dragsters, it's good enough for a Supra anyway.

I do hope your not replacing your stock crank pulley for an alloy pulley

Yes if the alloy ones you have are PAS and water pump etc then fine, but the oem crank one is the way it is for a reason. Do a quick search and you will see. CW has strong views on the damping properties of the Toyota one.

I now have a completed tool set for pulley removal, in a presentation case. I'm wondering though whether anyone would be willing to make a safety deposit of £150 for the duration of the loan. It would cost about £30 postage which covers both ways.

Given what happened to Markssupra's tool, I wouldn;t be willing to loan it out without a deposit.

Mark was messed around badly over this and yes if you have made a nice tool up then don't even consider lending it without a depo.

If the person wanting it is genuine why would they object in paying a deposit knowing that when you get the tool back they get their cash back? It's not a new concept. My tool however is a bit basic made from 30 x 30 mm angle in a Y form with a couple of holes for the bolts. It could be refined a bit but does the job.

Ok, I've not even looked at mine yet but the rubber ring would be the harmonic damper and you're right, heat during dis-assembly might be an issue but I meant on re-assembly and only to use boiling water, not a torch.

 

Hermetite is inappropriate, as you've found out. It's pretty useless generally as it doesn't dry hard so some decent silicone stuff from Permatex would be better. Will post details when found. Have it all on an engine building dvd but it's late now. If it's good enough for 1500hp V8 dragsters, it's good enough for a Supra anyway.

OK thanks, but tbh, the plug didnt come out, it's there is a small hole in it, right on the fold. The plug itself is still exactly the same position where it was the day I put it in.

I dont need to search to know what it is mate.

I said i hope your not replacing it with an alloy one because its a BAD idea as there not tortional dampers

I dont need to search to know what it is mate.

 

I said i hope your not replacing it with an alloy one because its a BAD idea as there not tortional dampers

Mate, I was agreeing with your answer to the Beast. I have no intentions of replacing mine with anything other than a Toyota pulley. BL and others do them but are they proven?

I know i wasnt having a go

BL dont produce them nomore. Titan do there own which is just a rebadged ATI unit. ATI have there own and then there's fluidampr but your probly best off with a stock one.

On a high revving motor id probly go for one. Alot of people run the ATI but at the end of the day its still elastomer based damper and will wear over time like stock which is probly why id go for a fluidampr

Can i ask why ?

 

 

 

I do hope your not replacing your stock crank pulley for an alloy pulley

You mean why buy two belts or why buy any atall? The stock belts are fine but I have big plans.......

To answer both, because I wanted to replace the one that's on there with a decent one (Gates Racing belts are decent arent they?) and two, because it's expensive shipping and costs an additional $8 for one more rather than $22 for one. I'll keep it as a spare and if anyone wanted it, it's for sale at cost price which would be half of the £105 paid plus postage. Not looking to make any money, yet

Not until I start making custom parts but distant futureland, that is.

As for the pulley, I bought a set of blue lightweight ones yes but if you reckon the crank one won't handle it, by all means say so? I'd have to look into it. Open to all advice and constructive criticism. The damper is seperate, is it not? Haven't even seen mine yet in detail.

Any horror stories I should know about?

The crank pulley is the damper. Its built into the pulley. Putting an alloy pulley on is a NO NO as your just asking for your engine to fail as its not being dampened from the torsional twists and vibrations its subjected to.

Gates are good yes but why buy the stronger racing type ones for an NA. Its just additional stress it doesnt need. Totaly overkill. A standard gates would do the job perfectly.

The crank pulley is the damper. Its built into the pulley. Putting an alloy pulley on is a NO NO as your just asking for your engine to fail as its not being dampened from the torsional twists and vibrations its subjected to.

 

Gates are good yes but why buy the stronger racing type ones for an NA. Its just additional stress it doesnt need. Totaly overkill. A standard gates would do the job perfectly.

Ok cool but as I say, I have big plans but probably won't fit the racing belt yet anyway, not until full rebuild. Just wanted to get it while I remembered it existed as I have several major projects on the go

Anyway, you can't be too careful with an engine you aren't familiar with. For all I know, my tensioner arm could be stress fractured. Was a good excuse to check it out but if the new belt would be much stiffer and break it anyway, I'll hold off until I get a billet tensioner.

Dampers btw are really for absorbing the stop/start acceleration/deceleration of clutch engagement etc. so would be less critical in an auto but you're right, big no no and it seems I have a lovely blue anodised paperweight now!

Infact, it will make a great faceplate for my woodturning lathe!

Dampers btw are really for absorbing the stop/start acceleration/deceleration of clutch engagement etc. so would be less critical in an auto

You have got the wrong end of the stick mate. Read and understand

http://www.gatesgarth.com/Damper_Info.pdf