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Engine problem ?


dive_popo
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Hi, I have a little problem with my Sup :(

 

So its a 1995 Jap spec TT Supra, with only power enterprise air filter and Mine's ECU

 

Last week I have replaced my JDM fuel pump by a Euro spec fuel pump, I have done about 200 miles everything was fine, and today when I took the car I had a big surprise

 

When I accelerate hardly, And then I release, and accelerate again, the engine start to tremble and stops.... I have to cut the ignition (with the key) and start it again... (it happens every time when I push hardly the accelerator...)

 

I also saw that when I accelerate my ratio goes to 12 or 13 and before with my Jap pump it was always on 14.6

 

I was thinking about my fuel filter, or fuel regulator... but I prefer ask before :innocent:

 

Thanks Guys :search:

Edited by dive_popo (see edit history)
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when you are on boost the afr's should be in 10~11.2 and not more than that.

is the euro pump used or new?

 

it's a used one, but it was working properly on the other car...

 

the ratio is given by my auto timer which takes information from the stock lambda..

 

before I had 14.6 on the jap spec fuel pump on boost and now I have 12 or 13 with the euro pump... (its the only difference that I can see, no power changes, it's the same for me...)

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14.6 on boost?:blink: you are lucky your engine still runns.

14.6 its good when you are on idle or off boost.

on boost i would never want to see more than 12.0.

you should have a look on the pump, how many miles on the pump?

 

 

I'm a newbie and I don't know what's the good ratio :D

 

but in the apexi autotimer installation paper the good ratio is between 14 and 15... and before changing my fuel pump everything was fine, I have always been on 14.6 and the car was fine, no problems

 

look on this

 

 

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=110556&stc=1&d=1274394363

apex.jpg

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I took the car this morning :(

 

so when I start the engine I have Afr=12.5, then after 15 sec I have afr=14.5

 

when cruising I have afr=14.5 and on boost it goes down

 

but I still have the same problem with the engines trembling and stopping when I accelerate... :(

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I can't read Japanese, so i can't check their mileage in the service book...

I saw in the review that a used plugs cant have more than 1.6 mm (gap), and I think that mines have little more than 1.6 mm...

 

 

I have some new symptoms now, when I start the engine it goes up and stops, I have to restart it and restart....

When I try to start it, it goes up to 1500 rpm and stops even if I accelerate... weird !!!

(when I accelerate and try to accelerate I can hear a little explosion in the engine ...)

 

HELP !!!!!!!

Edited by dive_popo (see edit history)
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the ratio is given by my auto timer which takes information from the stock lambda..

 

If it takes values from the stock O2 sensor then the readings will not be accurate. You need a dedicated wide band O2 sensor if you want to get a true A/F reading.

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did you replace the spark plugs?

 

nope....I'll have to order some plugs, but I don't know witch... (I've cleaned them with the carb cleaner)

 

I have Denso VK20 on my supe now, and I was wondering if I can buy some ik20 or ik22... I prefer buy something better (I'm stock for the moment, but I want to go BPU)

Edited by dive_popo (see edit history)
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:cool:

 

so i should buy some ik20 ;)

 

and what's the risk if I put a ik22 (with stock turbo pressure) ??

 

if you are going to eliminate problems, i think you should get copper ones like NGK - BKR7E and gap to 0.7mm.

i have them on my car running BPU and they are absolutely fine.

dont see the point on more expensive one's when these do the same job.

just my 2p.

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if you are going to eliminate problems, i think you should get copper ones like NGK - BKR7E and gap to 0.7mm.

i have them on my car running BPU and they are absolutely fine.

dont see the point on more expensive one's when these do the same job.

just my 2p.

 

 

Agree with all of the above and there not as fragile as Iridium plugs and can be re gapped if you want to unlike Iridium.

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if you are going to eliminate problems, i think you should get copper ones like NGK - BKR7E and gap to 0.7mm.

i have them on my car running BPU and they are absolutely fine.

dont see the point on more expensive one's when these do the same job.

just my 2p.

 

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NGK-IRIDIUM-IX-SPARK-PLUG-BKR7EIX-BKR7E-IX-No-2667-/360205338037?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item53dde945b5

 

Are these good for my supe guys ?? :p

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