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Changing brake fluid


jackso11
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Right, I have never done this job before and there doesn't seem to be a walk through on here. There are plenty of threads talking about it, but not actually step by step.

This is what I am guessing, am I right?

 

1. disconnect brake hoses from brakes

2. point the hoses into cups or something to catch fluid

3. pump all the fluid through

4. flush the system with some new fluid

5. fill up and bleed all caliper

 

When I write that out it looks like it wont work due to all the air in the system but I am hoping someone will point me in the right direction of a guide...or write one :)

 

I want to get all the fluid out of the system as I don't know ifit has 5.1 or 4 in there at the moment and want to put Motul 5.1 in.

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found a few answers on this after 20 mins more searching. So its nipple play, not draining.

I will change this to fitting braided hoses.....simply take out old ones, put in new ones and bleed?

 

Can anyone confirm if these are the stainless type or the galvanised type?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Toyota-Supra-SC300-SC400-Goodridge-Braided-Brake-Lines-/300321709416?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item45ec919d68

 

The model number is on the listing but I don't know what to look for.

Edited by jackso11 (see edit history)
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Your first post regarding the way to do it, seem a bit off. You need to only open up for one brake at a time and keep filling in new fluid "on top" of the old one. Start from the wheel furthest from the brake resevoir.

If you search a bit, you should find more info. You can also go YouTube as there are several videos on how to do it.

 

Chris Wilson has some good braided hoses available. They have just a bit more length than most others, making fitting them easier.

 

Make sure the get the BEST brake fluid you can get with the highest boiling point. Castrol makes some nice stuff. Sparco as well.

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Motul RBF 600 is more than good enough for job.

 

The best way to do the brakes and its real quick is to use a vacuum brake bleader and just keep topping up the master cylinder.

This draws the new fluid through the system when you open the bleed nipple, had my whole system bled in under 20 mins and that was with filling all new calipers and braided lines.

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Just had a look on ebay, they are about £30. I reckon I will just use my foot :D

 

Have you got a link please as I plan to fit my Do-Luck lines and refurb my calipers soon?

Regards the changing of 4.1 to 5.1 fluid, I was under the impression that they cannot be mixed as they form a "gel", so the system requires emptying prior to the addittion of any 5.1 fluid.

Maybe I'm wrong :p

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Have you got a link please as I plan to fit my Do-Luck lines and refurb my calipers soon?

Regards the changing of 4.1 to 5.1 fluid, I was under the impression that they cannot be mixed as they form a "gel", so the system requires emptying prior to the addittion of any 5.1 fluid.

Maybe I'm wrong :p

 

You just use the new fluid to force out the old ;)

 

I'd just go with Motul RBF600, the race fluids aren't really nessercary on a rd car and from what my mates tell me who use it in race cars it needs changing more regulary.

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Have you got a link please as I plan to fit my Do-Luck lines and refurb my calipers soon?

Regards the changing of 4.1 to 5.1 fluid, I was under the impression that they cannot be mixed as they form a "gel", so the system requires emptying prior to the addittion of any 5.1 fluid.

Maybe I'm wrong :p

 

I would guess you just need an extra 500ml of fluid to fully flush the old stuff out.

 

Does 5.1 really make much difference by the way?

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You just use the new fluid to force out the old ;)

 

I'd just go with Motul RBF600, the race fluids aren't really nessercary on a rd car and from what my mates tell me who use it in race cars it needs changing more regulary.

 

Thanks Dunk, so I am correct in assuming that RBF 600 will pour straight into the master cylinder with an unknown existant fluid. and that 5.1 is essentially a waste on a road car? :search:

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Is there a noticable difference between 5.1 and 4 when braking?

 

I am guessing that by '5.1 needs to be changed more often' it means about once a year instead of 1 every 2 years, which isn't really that bad. Saying that if you can't notice any difference I will go for 4.

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I have been told by the ebay seller that all goodridge hoses are stainless steel, however the ends are zinc plates on cheaper ones and stanless steel on the more expensive ones.

 

Is this right? I thought there were cheap galvinized goodridge one out there too?

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This is what i've used for a few years now and had no issues even on track.

 

RBF 600 FACTORY LINE

 

100% synthetic, RBF 600 FACTORY LINE is a polyglycol-based brake fluid exclusively designed for races. Developed to resist high temperatures and wet-weather conditions, RBF 600 has a high dry boiling point of 312°C and a wet boiling point of 216°C. This ensures effective braking under extreme racing or rainy conditions. Couple this with its outstanding anti-vapor lock performance, RBF 600 has become a well-trusted brake fluid in many races.

 

SPECIFICATIONS

 

Feature 100% synthetic, polyglycol-based. Has extreme thermal resistance and stability.

 

SAE/DOT Standard FMVSS 116, DOT4 & SAE J1703

 

Compatibility All types of hydraulic actuated brakes and clutch systems (not to be used with silicon-based and mineral-based brake fluids).

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Found this....

 

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_brakefluid_1a.shtml

 

and a quote from it...

 

'We won’t even discuss DOT 5 fluids as they are completely unacceptable to the high-performance enthusiast, but we’ll include them in the following table for completeness.'

 

I guess 5.1 is the high performance Dot 5...is that right?

 

No. From that interesting link...............

 

"In so many words, DOT 5.1 fluids are simply DOT 4-type fluids which meet DOT 5 performance requirements. Because of this, they typically can be mixed with DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluids without concern. In some circles, they are even referred to as ‘DOT 4 Plus’ or ‘Super DOT 4’ fluids because they are more similar to a conventional DOT 4 fluid by chemistry than they are to a conventional DOT 5 fluid. In fact, DOT 5.1 is essentially comprised of Borate Esters."

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The point about brakefluid is that you should buy what you need. If you only drive on the road and within reason (no repeated stops from 120+´), you can use any crap fluid you find.

 

If you do track your car it is a whole other world. Also dependant on your brakes. If you have small brakes, you will run highter temp in the fluid that with huge brakes that can dissipate the heat befor it runs to the lines & fluid.

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Are they that good?

 

On stock j-specs with normal hoses and fluid- yes. Bought one after Nic recommended them on another thread. They remove the flex from the master cylinder. Feels like you've had new brakes when you use them afterwards.

Mine is a Cusco one, so I am unable to comment on cheaper variants.

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