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My DIY Cold Air Box


jevansio
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Been wanting to do one of these for ages so thought I'd document the process as I know you guys love pics :D

 

First up pics of the engine bay. I already had a hole cut in the bay where I used to run my intake outside the engine bay. I moved it back into the bay as the filter got manky down there esp with no undertrays on.

 

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Another reason was the original hole wasn't cut very neatly & this is an opportunity to address this.

 

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I found some thick rubber with a checkerplate pattern. This is going to hold the end of the cold air feed, aswell as being flexible is easy to work with & fit.

 

Here's a pic of it cut to fit the area the cold air box will cover, I've already inserted part of the feed.

 

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The entire feed is made of 4" sections of drainage pipe I got from B&Q. The first piece is a 90deg join, I just drew round the end on the rubber checkerplate & cut a hole for it.

 

Here you can see it sweeping down & to the left.

 

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Next is a 45 deg angle which aligns the end perfectly with the opening in the front bumper. The great thing is these pipes push together like lego and have a built in rubber seal which gives a great OEM feel to the whole setup

 

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A quick pic looking down showing both ends of the intake feed

 

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To support the end of the intake I made a bracket to attach it to the bodywork. I used a bracket that is normal used to support the drainage pipe away from walls (it sort of wraps around the pipe & has 2 legs on), and added my fixing (an alluminium plate) to attach it to the body

 

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The last bit was to use a pipe joiner (again from B&Q, all the bits I used could be purchsed from their "drainage section") which flared the end of the pipe open to suit the bumper vent better. It basically looked like a funnel which attached on the end of the 4" pipework

 

A final pic showing what it looks like from outside, pretty subtle :)

 

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Will get onto doing the box next, not sure whether to use aluminium sheet or smoked perspex?

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Edited by jevansio (see edit history)
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Cheers George, once I get the box made I think it will (esp in the hotter days).

 

It def feels quicker today though, I use my performance box to check the cars performance, midweek it showed 492rwhp, today it showed 506rwhp.

 

The best one was fitting new plugs that went from 470rwhp to 492. So in total the car has picked up 36rwhp from the various things I've fixed/changed over the last week or two (even though the ambient temps have been rising day after day)

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Cheers George, once I get the box made I think it will (esp in the hotter days).

 

It def feels quicker today though, I use my performance box to check the cars performance, midweek it showed 492rwhp, today it showed 506rwhp.

 

The best one was fitting new plugs that went from 470rwhp to 492. So in total the car has picked up 36rwhp from the various things I've fixed/changed over the last week or two (even though the ambient temps have been rising day after day)

 

What the hell is that??

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It's a Racelogic Performance Box, a GPS based device used to do such things as time 0-60, 30-130, 1/4mile (or any thing you want timing), accurate to 0.1sec. Enter the weight of the car & it'll also provide a calculated power figure based on what power is needed to accelerate a given mass at that rate. It's prolly not accurate enough to put against other dyno readings (although it does seem pretty bang on for me considering I was last dynoed at 640 flywheel), but it's great for checking the effectivness of mods against each other on the same car as if it's inaccurate, it'll be the same % out for both runs :)

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It's a Racelogic Performance Box, a GPS based device used to do such things as time 0-60, 30-130, 1/4mile (or any thing you want timing), accurate to 0.1sec. Enter the weight of the car & it'll also provide a calculated power figure based on what power is needed to accelerate a given mass at that rate. It's prolly not accurate enough to put against other dyno readings (although it does seem pretty bang on for me considering I was last dynoed at 640 flywheel), but it's great for checking the effectivness of mods against each other on the same car as if it's inaccurate, it'll be the same % out for both runs :)

 

Mmmmm interesting, iv still to install RLTC in mine had it sitting for ages, might see about the add on then. cool mate thanks

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Looking good mate, seems like thats what I need to finish of the cones I have in front of my bumber :)

 

PLUS: do the headlights fit without problem with your balast fitted there mate?!

 

Ive got 3 on each side and running out of ideas where to put them :)

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Cheers guys,

 

Sorry for the late reply Mas, the headlights fine perfectly, they actually help make the balast such a snug fit under them they pretty much hold them in place (although I used adhesive to hold them also)

 

Update:

 

The aluminium turned up this week, I still hadn't decided if I was going to make a box that sealed with the bonnet or a fully contained box.

 

I quite liked this one by uk-rich so set of making my own:

 

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To determine the distance to the bonnet I used my RC car aerial and measured how much it squashed at various positions

 

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I re-made a card template using this info, but due to the fact I couldn't guarantee an airtight seal (it was rather an unusual shape & the bonnet skin & frame weren't air tight) I went with the sealed box idea.

 

I made each side seperately and will join them with some aluminmium angle later.

 

Here's the main side cut & in place

 

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I reattached the card side to ensure everything was aligned & well

 

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And the sides taped together & in place

 

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More tomorrow :)

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