Oil on flywheel. Degreaser or new flywheel?

Just in the process of changing the clutch as it's started slipping when running 1 bar boost or more. I assumed it was worn as I haven't had a clutch in the 5 years I've owned the car.

However, on removing the bell-housing there is a small amount of oil/grease in there that appears to have travelled down from the rocker covers.

There are coloured spots on the flywheel and pressure plate but no obvious amount of oil. see here;

Are the marks oil spots or just hot spots from it slipping?

So.....I have a new clutch assembly so will change that anyway but wondered if I would get away with the flywheel as it appears to be in very good condition.

Can I clean the flywheel with a degreaser or clutch/brake cleaner?

Thanks.

Oil could be from rear crank seal.

Oil could be from rear crank seal.

I did wonder about that, but there is definitely oil coming from the rocker covers and I've just found half the bolts were loose!

How can you check the crank seal? Can you see it when the flyweel is off?

I think the rocker cover bolts are meant to be just more than hand tight, nothing heavy handed or you will crack the cover.

I think the rocker cover bolts are meant to be just more than hand tight, nothing heavy handed or you will crack the cover.

Ok, thanks. I'll be gentle.

get the flywheel skimmed mate , it will be like new

get the flywheel skimmed mate , it will be like new

I've heard that's a big no no on supras, due to them having a dual mass flywheel.

Sorry can't help much but, I'm finding your pics helpful as I also need to do this soon

Did you remove the bell housing from the car or just lower it with a trolley jack?

Hope you get it all sorted without too much hassle

I've heard that's a big no no on supras, due to them having a dual mass flywheel.

my flwheel is from an na if that makes a difference?

what advers effects could taking 0.5mm off the face cause?

I did wonder about that, but there is definitely oil coming from the rocker covers and I've just found half the bolts were loose!

 

How can you check the crank seal? Can you see it when the flyweel is off?

Check the cam cover seals, the reason the bolts become loose is because the rubber over the years goes hard and shrinks thus the bolts become loose.

Best thing to do is replace with new rather than just tighten the bolts down.

You can skim a supra flywheel but the person doing it needs to do it dry and becarful where the excess metal goes as not to get it into the rubber.

If the flywheel is not too bad then just rough it up with abrasive pads used for cleaning cylinder heads etc as this is what most garages will do. Check it for cracks though.

Change the cam cover gaskets as these are common and also check the rear main is not leaking.

if your going to change your rear main seal go to your local bearing and seal company as toyota want £50 for it and the bearing company will be about £10.

There's been no oil on that flywheel friction face or the clutch plate. The heat spots are normal, just stick a new clutch in it if the flywheel passes the movement test for the dual mass travel. Brake cleaner on the flywheel if you like. Looks like you have already done the movement test from the felt tip marks ?

You can skim a supra flywheel but the person doing it needs to do it dry and becarful where the excess metal goes as not to get it into the rubber.

If the flywheel is not too bad then just rough it up with abrasive pads used for cleaning cylinder heads etc as this is what most garages will do. Check it for cracks though.

Change the cam cover gaskets as these are common and also check the rear main is not leaking.

well mine was skimmed by a precision engineering centre. he took 0.5mm of the face and 0.5mm from the outer egde where the bolt holes are to compensate.

im pretty sure my ge flywheels was a solid wheel not dual mass as opposed the the gtes dual mass, is this correct or all wrong?

Right...

I read loads of threads about the oil seal today so I got the flywheel off for a good look and to check out the rear crank seal.

You can clearly see the oily marks/hot spots now its out. I'm gonna have a go at cleaning it up as it has very little wear and the damper is well within limits.

Do you think this will be ok?

Its pretty messy in here.....

I first thought that is was oil and grease but after a closer look I saw that is a mix of a bit of oil and alot of rubber!

The flywheel has been rubbing on the rubber blank that fills the forward inspection hole;

Could this have been in backwards? As it seems if it was the other way there would be more clearance.

Now a look at rear oil seal;

I don't think it's leaking from here as most of the oil was clearly running from the top off the bell housing and the back of the engine. However, I don't fancy doing all this again so I will change it anyway.

So I've ordered some new cam cover seals and the rear crank shaft oil seal along with the rubber blank. I will get them Friday so will attack it then.

What do you think about cleaning up the flywheel will I get away with it?

Also there is only one locating dowel on the flywheel for the clutch cover. I assume that once located the 6 cover bolts will be plenty to hold it all?

When changing the rear oil seal can I just carefully pull it out with a knife and push the new one in?

Ok, thanks. I'll be gentle.

Not too gentle or they will come loose again. It might be worth replaceing gaskets and they little pressure caps that the bolts tighten down on. As the rubber hardens with age it looses the spring effect effect of soft rubber. On new ones, use good firm hand pressure on a screw drive type drive as you have to squash both the rubber in the caps and the gasket. Also worth checking for tightness every oil change.

There's been no oil on that flywheel friction face or the clutch plate. The heat spots are normal, just stick a new clutch in it if the flywheel passes the movement test for the dual mass travel. Brake cleaner on the flywheel if you like. Looks like you have already done the movement test from the felt tip marks ?

I was hoping you might 'pop in'.

I'm glad to hear that they're just 'hot spots' and not oil. And yes I have done the dual mass travel test and it's well within limits so that's saved me a few hundred pound.

if your going to change your rear main seal go to your local bearing and seal company as toyota want £50 for it and the bearing company will be about £10.

Doh! Already ordered it. To be honest it would probably play on my mind if I didn't use the OEM seal purely because I wouldn't want to have to change it again if it was of poorer quality.

Thanks for the tip though.

Not too gentle or they will come loose again. It might be worth replaceing gaskets and they little pressure caps that the bolts tighten down on. As the rubber hardens with age it looses the spring effect effect of soft rubber. On new ones, use good firm hand pressure on a screw drive type drive as you have to squash both the rubber in the caps and the gasket. Also worth checking for tightness every oil change.

Thanks. I didn't realise they had little pressure caps or I would have ordered them along with the gaskets. I'll check them and see how brittle they are.

There's been no oil on that flywheel friction face or the clutch plate. The heat spots are normal, just stick a new clutch in it if the flywheel passes the movement test for the dual mass travel. Brake cleaner on the flywheel if you like. Looks like you have already done the movement test from the felt tip marks ?

I was hoping you might 'pop in'.

I'm glad to hear that they're just 'hot spots' and not oil. And yes I have done the dual mass travel test and it's well within limits so that's saved me a few hundred pound.

Also Chris, or anyone else, If there is no contamination that has led to it slipping and there still being some meat left on the disc, is it just down to the pressure plate weakening and the disc getting thinner leading to less clamping force?

Correct me if I'm wrong,

but if there is coming grease/oil out of the flywheel,

then it needs to be replaced..

(looks a bit like it on the picture on the backside of the flywheel, I see something coming out of the 12 holes)

Correct me if I'm wrong,

but if there is coming grease/oil out of the flywheel,

then it needs to be replaced..

(looks a bit like it on the picture on the backside of the flywheel, I see something coming out of the 12 holes)

Hi, I think it's just oil/ rubber residue from the oil leak and the worn bung. I'm sure if it were leaking grease it would have failed the damper test. But I will have a closer look tomorrow when I give it a clean.

The clutch disc looks like it has more life yet. The pressure plate may well be tired though. For sure, change the rear oil seal whilst you have easy access, and the gearbox seals. The heat spots are entirely normal, even for a perfect assembly.

The clutch disc looks like it has more life yet. The pressure plate may well be tired though. For sure, change the rear oil seal whilst you have easy access, and the gearbox seals. The heat spots are entirely normal, even for a perfect assembly.

Cheers Chris.

You shouldn't consider re using it though! It's a LOT more cost effective to buy a complete clutch. Have you considered my uprated stock clutch kit (blatant plug....) ?

I use the stock, brand new driven plate, as it is correctly

balanced, doesn't judder and will hold all but mega torque

highly modded engines or cars used for drag racing.

I modify a stock brand new cover to give more clamping force.

The reason I tooled up to do these is some of the aftermarket

US clutches I have fitted SEEM to be built from used cover

assemblies with reground friction surfaces, and a stronger

spring. I have had hellish trouble getting these to fully

release, because due to this seemingly thinner cast iron

friction face, the geometry of the clutch goes to pot, and

being a pull type clutch (the hydraulics pull the bearing

away from the engine, rather than the more normal push type)

it is a lot harder to effect a cure.

For 455 pounds plus VAT , you get a brand new driven

plate, a brand new modded cover, and a brand new release

bearing. I would rather fit myself so any complaints are down

to me, I see a lot of clutches damaged by people without the right gear

(a ramp and transmission jack, plus correct circlip tools and fitment)

or clutches fitted to patently *uggered flywheels. I will do a supply

only if you feel competent to tackle the job or are using a bona fide garage to

fit the clutch

Toyota use a dual mass flywheel (the flywheel is in 2 parts, an inner and

outer assembly, damped in the middle) which is now showing signs

of wear causing a lot of rattle when idling or on very light

throttle openings. For God knows what reason they are charging

about £270 + VAT for a new one, they look more like they should be

over 500 to me, but don't say anything :-) The very similar LUK dual

mass flywheel on Maseartis is nearly £1000 + VAT.... So if the flywheels

old enough or abused enough to be scored it should be replaced.

Fitting by myself will cost £175 + VAT.

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