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Which manifold ?? Best one ??


Peter10654
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Hey guys,

 

need a new manifold with T04 flange. My old one was a Greddy and it was OK but also this manifold got cracked after the time.

 

I drive a lot with the car (around 15.000 miles) in the year and the new single turbo will be one of the most biggest T04 flange available.

 

I'm looking for a really great manifold. Maybe from Inconel if this is available.

 

Maybe some guys have a good experience to a special manifold and can tell me the manufacture.

 

Thanks

 

Peter

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Any pics of the crack?

 

Funny thing that every body always say that the China / Ebay manifolds are the ones that cracks, but I've read several HKS and GReddy manifold crack and not a single china Supra manifold. :)

 

Full race is considered to be one of the best manifolds, but very expensive. I'm sure a Boostlogic or Sound Performance will be also good.

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My old Fullrace... I know they have the best name but my one was not lucky !! This was after 2500miles !

 

I have had the HKS for few years and I was happy with it... Shame I sold this kit.

 

Maybe some guys have more info about the Whifbitz. Would be finde to get a manifold from the UK

 

Thanks

 

Peter

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I have seen :) after Jamies post but maybe some other guys have experience with it.

 

I think if Paul use it, it will be fine but few other good words about it would be great

 

Peter

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I am loathe to post here about tubular manifolds as some people on the forum have new products, that may well be fine, but I have to say that without proper support and material specs most tubular turbo manifolds will crack. If you are serious about Inconel I can get you one made or put you in touch with someone who will make you one. But bear in mind my 4 cylinder one on modest primary pipe diameters, for a turbo with an integral wastegate was about 3500 quid. Whatever you buy both the turbo and wastegate need separate supports to take all their weight off the manifold runners. Ideally proper expansion joints need adding. I have a library of photos of proper set ups if you need to grab some ideas, it's a real fad of mine as I went through all this nonsense years ago with tubular manifolds. These days I try to run cast iron, or get the customer to budget for a proper Inconel manifold. Even an Ebay manifold might last a while on a car doing sod all mileage, but if you are talking rep type mileages you need to address all the above for a reliable set up. Below is an example of a properly expansion jointed manifold, and one of my Inconel Toyota 4A-GE manifold showing Rose jointed support for the turbo.

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Edited by Chris Wilson (see edit history)
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Hello Chris,

 

thanks a lot ! We developed also a new manifold maybe we will get casted from 1.4848 material by end of the year. It is one of the most high temp casting material and withstands 1100degrees Celsius all the way, but the tooling is so much expensive and we have no time for our new project car. The car need to be ready this summer for a TV show. I think end of the year the manifold is ready for casting and we'll have the first prototype. Of course the prototype isn't cheaper as the an inconel Version.

 

But we did in all other cars (Mitubishi EVO, VAG 1.8T powered card) the best experience with casted manifolds by the way. If the development was fine and the castingmaterial high quality (not 199 Dollar China casting) this manifold will hold (maybe) forever :)

 

We have spent a lot of time to get a real twin scroll manifold in built of ignition timing etc. and we're sure it will be an fantastic product in future, but I'm also sure only few people will pay the price for it :)

 

I'm very intersted in your library... Maybe you can write me an PM and we can talk about by mail.

 

Here few pictures of our construction. (not finished at the moment) We think about also to do a bracket for the manifold like the 1.8T powerd cars have stock. Seems to be a good solution to get the load away from the studs and more.

 

Thanks

 

Peter

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Edited by Peter10654 (see edit history)
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Here are a couple of freebie clues to making ANY manifold last. The 2JZ-GTE TT manifold is divided in two with a trickly welded expansion pipe. Why? In line six cylinder engines have LOOONG heads. A long manifold expands a lot and tries to spread the header pipes. The constant flexing cracks the pipes, usually, but not always, by the welds. They can load up and snap head to manifold studs like old carrots, if the holes are not well oversize, the manifold studs don't use a correct washer pack, and are not over torqued. A long manifold needs the flange plate dividing, ideally, and correct gaskets that allow shuffle used, to accommodate differential expansion without leaking. They need a flexi section. The stock turbos on a cast manifold pairing STILL get hefty support by sturdy bracketry underneath. Why? Because testing will have shown this extra weight, complexity and cost was needed.

RB26-DETT Skyline engines use divided manifold, effectively running the engine as two 3 cylinder units, as far as the turbos are concerned. Despite the short high nickel content cast iron manifolds, that are very chunky and compact, Nissan added very hefty supports for each turbo. Look what most people expect a .040 inch thick stainless tubes to support, unaided... A huge single turbo, a heavy wastegate swinging on a single pipe, and often the rest of the exhaust that's not supported off the gearbox bell housing to take the system weight off the manifold itself. Turbo weight on the manifold aside, each manifold runner expands differently, they all fight one another, and one or more lose out and crack or snap.

Edited by Chris Wilson (see edit history)
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