Rear Top Arm Replacement - Difficult?

Has anyone replaced their rear top arms and done it using a jack and axle stands as opposed to using a ramp/lift?

I've only had a quick look and the fixing points to the subframe look a little difficult to get to. Does it get a bit more obvious when the car is in the air? Please tell me I don't need to do anything hefty like dropping the subframe to do it?

Any pointers will be greatly appreciated?

Cheers

Dan

The hardest part i found when changing mine was undoing the 2 bolts that go through the bushes, they were seriously tight !!

Mine was done on a ramp so not sure how easy this would be on the floor on axle stands.

You dont need to drop the subframe but think you undo them from under the car, cant remember now but i know it was a squeeze to get at the nuts on the ends of the 2 bolts

Not sure if the pic is any use but heres 1 i took

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=193133

The above thread is when I was doing this sort of thing if you want a look. The bolt nearest the front of the car was put in the wrong way around, which was confirmed after looking at EPC diagrams, so I had to take the subframe off. You shouldn't have this problem though.

That nut is annoying to get to and you'll probably scrape your wrist a bit but you should manage.

both of my rears need changing. slight hi jack but wheres the best/cheapest place to get them from?

The hardest part i found when changing mine was undoing the 2 bolts that go through the bushes, they were seriously tight !!

 

............. i know it was a squeeze to get at the nuts on the ends of the 2 bolts

 

That's what is worrying me - after a quick look from under the arch the nuts/bolts look damn near impossible to get at.

If mine are as tight as your's (most likely ) then there will be no chance of pissing around with an open ended spanner - I'll need a decent socket or at least a ring spanner on there......and the same to do them back up again.

don't use a open ended spanner on a seized or tight nut or bolt. This is just asking for problems, always try and use a ring and 6 point socket to reduce the risk of rounding.

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=193133

 

The above thread is when I was doing this sort of thing if you want a look. The bolt nearest the front of the car was put in the wrong way around, which was confirmed after looking at EPC diagrams, so I had to take the subframe off. You shouldn't have this problem though.

 

That nut is annoying to get to and you'll probably scrape your wrist a bit but you should manage.

Cool, thanks for the link. Looks like you had some fun and games doing that little lot. I see what you mean about your bolts being put in the wrong way.....weird.

both of my rears need changing. slight hi jack but wheres the best/cheapest place to get them from?

I'd try Paul Whiffin and Steve Manley.

A medium sized breaker bar or a pole extension on your ratchet should be fine and on axle stands too.

a ball joint splitter comes in handy too. its quiet straight forward once you get into it.

Cheers chaps, thanks for the input. I'll give it a go on Saturday then

had to replace both my upper arms for the last mot.not that bad a job when you get stuck into it.I had to drop the subframe down on the trolly jack to get at the bolts.get some nice high axle stands aswell.

I found dropping the whole lot out was easier.

Just to do the top arms!!, talk about causing yourself work, its 2 bolts and a balljoint lol.

Interesting to read this thread as I will be fitting poly bushes to my arms in the next couple of days.

Interesting to read this thread as I will be fitting poly bushes to my arms in the next couple of days.

Now that could be a mission......

Now that could be a mission......

Don't say that lol.

Just to do the top arms!!, talk about causing yourself work, its 2 bolts and a balljoint lol.

No I changed everything

Shouldn't be too bad as the bushes come in 2 pieces, some good lube and a press and should fly in. famous last words.

Shouldn't be too bad as the bushes come in 2 pieces, some good lube and a press and should fly in. famous last words.

Apparently its getting the original ones out thats the pain, havn`t done any personally.

Im also subscribed.

Ive heard of people having to burn the original bushes out as they wouldnt press out.

Gav

Burning out a bush is not uncommon.

use a hole saw to drill the insides out thrn use a hacksaw to remove the steel liner.. push pu bushes in.. job done..

one of the bolts looks like you cant get a spanner onto the other side as the subframe is in the way.. dont worry toyota have already thought of this and made the nut with an elongated side that locks by hitting the subframe alowing you to remove the bolt.. its easy but they are tight..

IF you arent using a balljoint splitter and are using a lump hammer to remove the ball joint by shocking the cast hub, make sure you dont undo the bolts, remove the ball joint first as the extra movement of undoiing the bolts or removing them will make shocking the ball joint out next to impossible...

Try it its easy

Shouldn't be too bad as the bushes come in 2 pieces, some good lube and a press and should fly in. famous last words.

Polybushes are fitted by hand, once both sides are in you can push in the insert again by hand, no tools nessessary.. just lube up the bushes and the insert or they will squeak like a bugger..

That's what is worrying me - after a quick look from under the arch the nuts/bolts look damn near impossible to get at.

 

If mine are as tight as your's (most likely ) then there will be no chance of pissing around with an open ended spanner - I'll need a decent socket or at least a ring spanner on there......and the same to do them back up again.

you will need a socket on a bar (i used my ratchet with a long bar over the handle as its easier to get the socket and bolts to line up to get leverage.. I broke the ratchet though lol) They are bloody tight. Just apply pressure dont yank at it and they will give.. WD40 helps to..