Lude Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 (edited) car runs great, however sometimes i think its a little flat. i think if it had propper mapping, or aftermarket ECU it would be better, as at the moment its just got an Apexi SAFC, which i think it a bit vauge. its a RZ-S, TT 6 speed. Apexi Intake GReddy FMIC Blitz FCD zigen exhaust, double de-cat, Greddy boost controller (i think its pointless as u cant keep the boost down without a restrictor ring anyway, which have) what you think of this? what recomendations/mods next, correct map? i dont know if dyno dynamics would have sorted the SAFC? Edited March 8, 2010 by Lude (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SupraHuman Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 If you're on stock turbos I'd say thats quite good.(power wise) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lude Posted March 8, 2010 Author Share Posted March 8, 2010 yea stock turbos. J Spec. why are there 2 lines then, 2 seperate runs isit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SupraHuman Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 Power and torque curve bud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_p Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 why are there 2 lines then, 2 seperate runs isit? One's your torque the other is BHP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marco Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 yea stock turbos. J Spec. why are there 2 lines then, 2 seperate runs isit? No, one for HP and one for torque. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 What boost was it running during the run? The dyno operator should have also provided a graph with the boost and AFR reading, please post those if you hbave them why are there 2 lines then, 2 seperate runs isit? One is torque, the other BHP. Greddy boost controller (i think its pointless as u cant keep the boost down without a restrictor ring anyway, which have) This is how it should work. The restrictor ring determines the MINIMUM boost the car can acheive, the boost controller can only RAISE boost past that point. Please take a read here: bpu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lude Posted March 8, 2010 Author Share Posted March 8, 2010 What boost was it running during the run? The dyno operator should have also provided a graph with the boost and AFR reading, please post those if you hbave them my mate said the same aswel, i should have an AFR reading. i dont unfortunetly. the dyno was dated only a few weeks ago, iv thaught the same, it says it was in 3rd gear when did it, but he could have just nurst the accelarator to 1 bar boost? if you floor it in 3rd it does go to 1.2-1.3 KG/cm2 boost, but i dont know if he did? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lude Posted March 8, 2010 Author Share Posted March 8, 2010 This is how it should work. The restrictor ring determines the MINIMUM boost the car can acheive, the boost controller can only RAISE boost past that point. yea i understand. just there is no need to actually have the boost controll then isit, as i dont want to go higher than 1.2bar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 the dyno was dated only a few weeks ago, iv thaught the same, it says it was in 3rd gear when did it, but he could have just nurst the accelarator to 1 bar boost? if you floor it in 3rd it does go to 1.2-1.3 KG/cm2 boost, but i dont know if he did? If it was done in 3rd it's going to over read anyway, it should be done in 4th or 5th. Are there any more detailed pics that show the dyno configuration settings? They are usally displayed under the graph. Did they tell you what the boost readin was when it was on there. It will typically be lower than on the road. Oh and did they charge you for this? yea i understand. just there is no need to actually have the boost controll then isit, as i dont want to go higher than 1.2bar The boost controller will be useful in the summer when the temps raise and you only see 0.9 bar. However, it looks like there's other stuff to check before pushing the car. Have you done all the BPU mods required to run 1.2 bar? You mention SAFC but has it been mapped? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lude Posted March 8, 2010 Author Share Posted March 8, 2010 pmsl, no the previous owner had it done lol he had it done a week before i bought it. this is the other stuff on the sheet..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?p=2689074#post2689074 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?p=2689074#post2689074 Edit - worng bloody thread Lude, I'll ask again, has the SAFC been mapped and has it got the other BPU mods done? The dyno settings as I read them are correct except it being done in the wrong gear (which will result in a higher figure) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lude Posted March 8, 2010 Author Share Posted March 8, 2010 Edit - worng bloody thread Lude, I'll ask again, has the SAFC been mapped and has it got the other BPU mods done? The dyno settings as I read them are correct except it being done in the wrong gear (which will result in a higher figure) hi mate, yes it has a FCD, and the other BPU mods: exhaust, double decat, air filter, and boost it about 1.2bar, FMIC, restrictor ring. the SAFC is one of the older ones, which im not that comfortable with, this is what looks like... just 5 nobs onit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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